wiring Kitchen appliances.

[Newbyspark]

Hi all, A builder friend of mine asked me if all large kitchen appliances ( ie dishwasher , fridge ect ) have to be run off a fused switch spur. He said an electrician he has used insisted that he cut the plugs off the new appliances and wire them in directly to the fused switch. I told him I dont belive this is the case but then started doubting myself as Im new to the electrical trade. Has anyone got an answer for me. Sorry if Im being dim and should know this is the case.

Thanks.

 

[trev]

They do not have to go into fused spurs, flex outlets or anything else for that matter. The plug tops are sometimes removed because the depth of the appliance means a socket would make the appliance stick out too far from the units, there are ways round that though.

 

[Newbyspark]

Thanks for that, I didn't think you had to do this, but wanted to double check so I dont look stupid when I tell him. Guess its just the way the electrician likes to do it.

 

[trev]

Lots of electricians have lots of ways to do different jobs, all of which might achieve compliance with the regs but if an appliance was REQUIRED to be wire to a fused spur why would it come with a moulded plug top?
What the guy was probably talking about was above worktop isolation. In this case there is, once again, no requirement for a fused spur, I've been on jobs where the spec has called for a DP switch above the worktop controlling a socket for the appliance below.

 

[Guitarist]

In short... NO


Either plug stand-alone units into sockets behind the appliance (space permitting), or stand-alone and built-in appliances into sockets at the back of adjoining cupboards. I prefer to keep sockets in the wall, and cut a hole out of the back of the unit, but some people surface mount inside the cupboard itself. These sockets should ideally be fed from either 20A DP switches or SFCU's above worktop height to enable "switching off" without having to wheel said appliance out.

 

[Newbyspark]

This place is great. I thought the answer was easy and I did know it, but no harm in asking all the brainpower on here.
Thanks.

 

[snowhead]

The reason for cutting the plug off and not using a socket means one less place to have a fault.

All appliances in the U.K, and probably E.U, have to be supplied with a plug on.

I've always cut the plugs off and wired to a flex outlet plate.

 

[trev]

That's not true though Snowhead. As well as in the wiring, anywhere there is a connection there is the potential for a fault. You may well use a flex outlet but are you doing that because you HAVE to or is it down to personal preference?

 

[snowhead]

Personal preference.

It removes the weak link of plug to socket interference fit.

 

[Dipzy]

Wasn't there something about manufacturers warranties being invalidated due to the plug being cut off ??? or am i barking up the wrong tree?

 

[trev]

Yes there was Dipzy, but can you honestly see any manufacturer invalidating a warranty on an appliance that has been installed by a qualified electrician as long as there is correct fusing somewhere between the RFC and the outlet controlling it as long as the fixed wiring conforms to BS7671?

 

[Taylortwocities]

I'm with Snowhead on that.

Mostly because having a 13A fuse in the appliance plug and another 13A fuse in the SFCU above the worktop goes against the principles of fuse discrimination.

Also, you try and pull out a washing machine full of clothes and water when the plug or socket behind the appliance goes phut.

 

[trev]

I agree with you both Taylor, but the point I was trying to get to is that there are different ways of achieving compliance. Yours is one way I prefer a DP switch with a socket under the worktop but no one can say that you are right and I'm wrong or vice versa.

 

[Rockingit]

I always do a new kitchen fit such that I use a FSU to feed a length of 1.75 3c flex buried down a chase, then coming out of the plaster as a trailing lead with a trailing 13A socket on it. That way, it's NEVER in the way as you can move it around to suit the appliance and you don't have to worry about pulling the whole shebang out again.

 

[telectrix]

until the washing machine leaks water over the trailing socket and the kitchen floor becomes a "live" paddling pool.

 

[i=p/u]

fcu to a single socket would be my approach.....

 

[telectrix]

fcu to a single socket would be my approach.....

then you got 2 13A fuses in series. no discrimination. i prefer a D/P switch (single or part of a grid) and then to the socket.

 

[Octopus]

What is wrong, IMHO, are the numpties who don't put accessible switching, being a FCU or DP switch, above the worktop for devices such as washing machines, and large fridge freezers so when "old" Mrs Smith has a problem you have to turn yourself into a removal man to unplug devices!

 

[i=p/u]

its never easy anyway, oscilating an appliance is least of the worries , finding the fault is the bugger.. overloaddddddddddd

 

[Guitarist]

Let's be brutally honest here....
Firstly, most customers want the ability to pull an appliance out and disconnect it without needing to get an electrician out, especially with modern appliances lasting only 5 years. Additionally, during that time they will probably have a service engineer out a few times who needs to get it into the middle of the kitchen floor to work on it. I respect that and always install a nearby socket switched from above.
Secondly, I have never ever found that having a fuse in an SFCU as well as having one in the plug of an appliance has caused me or any customer problems due to no discrimination. In the unlikely event that an appliance does blow a fuse, it's not exactly hard work to check which one it is.
This topic is being way "over-thought"