Advice on Cooker hood fuse access to replace

[Hans]

Hi guys,

Hope i could get your help and advice please .

I have indesit HGM61X coocker hood and i believe the fuse is blown because of the blown bulb.

The power source connection or the fuse is normally behind the chimny part, and this is my problem.

I cant seem to see any screws to undo to remove the chimney cover to access the fuse on the socket or the control panel .

.........Please see attached photos.........

Please correct if i m wrong and would be most gtreaful if you could advise me on how to resolve this.

Many thanks

 

[Octopus]

I suspect the coving was fitted after the hood, and the coving is concealing the screws you need to access.

Sorry if this isn't what you want to be told.

 

[The Ghost]

Have you looked at the back of the cupboard below and ruled out that it is not there? Maybe you pushed a pan or something back and switched it off???

 

[pirate]

That is one badly fitted hood, btw...
the trick is to look under the hood...flip off any grey wedges as they will be covering the screws...
drop the main hood then slide the chimney down...
it is very unusual for there to be a fuse on these, unless it is in a FCU or, more often, there is a socket outlet hidden in the flue, with a fused plug...odd, really...why put a socket hidden under a flue, then plug in a hood which funnels the wet steamy clouds over the socket?
but that is Kevin's Way!
I fkn HATE Kevin!!!!!

 

[telectrix]

tht's why i refuse to fit FCU inside the flue.upset loads of Kevins and customers after kevin said it would be concealed in the flue. bloody pr1cks.

 

[telectrix]

think murdoch hit nail on head with his post #2.

 

[Hans]

I suspect the coving was fitted after the hood, and the coving is concealing the screws you need to access.

Sorry if this isn't what you want to be told.

Yes i suspect that too but trying to find a way arround braking coveing.

 

[telectrix]

Yes i suspect that too but trying to find a way arround braking coveing.

cut and patch.

 

[The Ghost]

Have you tried replacing the lamp? Does the fan work?

 

[Hans]

That is one badly fitted hood, btw...
the trick is to look under the hood...flip off any grey wedges as they will be covering the screws...
drop the main hood then slide the chimney down...
it is very unusual for there to be a fuse on these, unless it is in a FCU or, more often, there is a socket outlet hidden in the flue, with a fused plug...odd, really...why put a socket hidden under a flue, then plug in a hood which funnels the wet steamy clouds over the socket?
but that is Kevin's Way!
I fkn HATE Kevin!!!!!

Totally agree . really bad fitted.

By the way i dont know who Kevin is

I have removed all screws i could see from the hood and still cant take it out .

I could not see any hidden screws behind and gray stuff . Please see morr pictures i attached here .

 

[The Ghost]

It would seem you have no charcoal filters over your motors, which is not a good idea for recirculated air fans such as that.
If you work with a multi tool you should be able to neatly remove coving and put it back after and with a good bit of redecoration no-one will ever know.

 

[Hans]

cut and patch.

I m not sure if i could do that .Is there any chance of entering from outside of the house ? I mean from extracting kit ?

Or Feed another power cord to it rather than fixing the fuse on the power point behind the chimney ?I am trying to avoid messing up with coving .

 

[Hans]

It would seem you have no charcoal filters over your motors, which is not a good idea for recirculated air fans such as that.
If you work with a multi tool you should be able to neatly remove coving and put it back after and with a good bit of redecoration no-one will ever know.

Yes nofiliter, but it just going to extract the air to outside , think no big deal ?

 

[Strima]

Yes nofiliter, but it just going to extract the air to outside , think no big deal ?

All the grease and fat from cooking will eventually kill the motor.

 

[telectrix]

Kevin is our nickname for kitchen fitters. like willie wet pants for plumber, jumbo jaws for joiner, bob bodgit for builder, you get the drift?
and your onnly resource is to cut the coving.

 

[Hans]

All the grease and fat from cooking will eventually kill the motor.

Are you able to remove the old one and install new one ? I live in Bexlyheath , Kent ?Or recomment somebody decent enough to install the new one without kevins way ?

 

[The Ghost]

think no big deal

Ok customer knows best then, best of luck with that.

 

[Strima]

Are you able to remove the old one and install new one ? I live in Bexlyheath , Kent ?Or recomment somebody decent enough to install the new one without kevins way ?

A bit far for me.

 

[Hans]

All the grease and fat from cooking will eventually kill the motor.

Are you able to remove the old one and install new one ? I live in Bexlyheath , Kent ?Or recomment somebody decent enough to install the new one without kevins way ?

Ok customer knows best then, best of luck with that.

There was a question mark after that ... did you not see it? I was not sure and this why i put it. I am here to take some advice and ask further about it , not to take it blindly .No need to make fun of a customer trying to explore his options and have better understanding of stuff . Its like making fun of your customer when he say something you don’t agree with.


It would be much better to correct him as that would be more appreciated.


Many thanks kind wishes

 

[Hans]

I suspect the coving was fitted after the hood, and the coving is concealing the screws you need to access.

Sorry if this isn't what you want to be told.

Is there no way to access the power source from outside the house ? I mean from the extractor vent , and feed new power cord to it ?

 

[Hans]

A bit far for me.

Is there no way to access the power source from outside the house ? I mean from the extractor vent , and feed new power cord to it ?

 

[telectrix]

Is there no way to access the power source from outside the house ? I mean from the extractor vent , and feed new power cord to it ?

no way.i gave the answer earlier.you need to get that chimney off.a bit of re- decor is nothing.

 

[The Ghost]

It would be much better to correct him as that would be more appreciated.

Apologies if I came across a little arch, no offense meant really.

 

[Wilko]

A box cutter around the mastic and you should have that cover off fairly quickly. There may be sharp edges and exposed wires underneath, so gloves and safe isolation is the go.

 

[Hans]

A box cutter around the mastic and you should have that cover off fairly quickly. There may be sharp edges and exposed wires underneath, so gloves and safe isolation is the go.

Many thanks for this tip .I might give it a go tomorrow

 

[Wilko]

Yes no filter, but its just going to extract the air to outside, think no big deal ?

Extractor fans that are vented externally normally don't come with the screw on charcoal filters. They use the aluminium filter plates (which I assume are removed and sitting on the bench) to grab the globs and they may have another replaceable filter stretched over them on the inside. Just clean the metal filter plates regularly and replace the other as necessary .

 

[Des 56]

The simple and least disruptive is to do what has been advised
You could cut a section of the coving,remove,undo screws,re locate the stupid position that has been chosen for the fuse,refit cover and apply a minuscule of filler to the now unseen cut made in the coving,a touch of paint and it would be has if it had never been disturbed

If however you are set on taking a sledge hammer to crack a nut,the rear bracket could be eased out from the wall, the hood taken off as a whole (unless of course,the person who fitted the hood has done a far superior job fixing the bracket than where the fuse has been located)

 

[Hans]

The simple and least disruptive is to do what has been advised
You could cut a section of the coving,remove,undo screws,re locate the stupid position that has been chosen for the fuse,refit cover and apply a minuscule of filler to the now unseen cut made in the coving,a touch of paint and it would be has if it had never been disturbed

If however you are set on taking a sledge hammer to crack a nut,the rear bracket could be eased out from the wall, the hood taken off as a whole (unless of course,the person who fitted the hood has done a far superior job fixing the bracket than where the fuse has been located)

Thanks for the options you mentioned. Its not only the caving issue . Part of the chimney is going through celling and thats another challenge for a bigginer like me . Please see pictures at the top of the thread .

If you cut the coving and reached the screws, then you are left with another issue on how to take chimney out since its going through the celling . If i got that right .

 

[Wilko]

Run a cut round the mastic. There may be a screw on each side covered by coving, or with luck Kev has left them out and the stainless steel cover will be able to be wiggled off. The cover normally butts onto the ceiling rather than through it. Be careful, as you'll be up a ladder etc and you can't lean on that cooker hood too much . Hopefully underneath the cover will be a nice bit of ducting going up and out and the missing cable going into a switched fuse connection unit. Change the 3A fuse and reinstate. I mentioned the possibility of exposed wires just to remind that Kev may not have done a good job on that bit.

 

[pirate]

Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!

 

[Midwest]

I'm gonna have to change my name to Kevin, it seems.

 

[Hans]

Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!

Many thanks for the kind advice.

I wont lean on the hood or stand on hob.. Promise

2 questions please :
What is the best tool to use to cut the caving ?

I dont want to run into simliar senario again in the future , to cut and redecorate.
What do you thunk the best thing to do to avoid that even if i decided to install a new cooker hood . This is one about 8 years old . No cutting or decorating in the future for any simliar issue .



Do i need to replace the ducting or reposition it ?

 

[Hans]

Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!

Many thanks for the kind advice.

I wont lean on the hood or stand on hob.. Promise

2 questions please :
What is the best tool to use to cut the caving ?

I dont want to run into simliar senario again in the future , to cut and redecorate.
What do you thunk the best thing to do to avoid that even if i decided to install a new cooker hood . This is one about 8 years old . No cutting or decorating in the future for any simliar issue .



Do i need to replace the ducting or reposition it ?

 

[telectrix]

best tool is a multi tool like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Apollo-Osc...TF8&qid=1521373194&sr=8-4&keywords=multi+tool

a lot cheaper than a pro unit, but will do for light DIY. once you have sorted the problem, I'd re-drill the screw holes to be outside the coving if you need to remove in future.

 

[Hans]

Forget about breaking in from outside, just do as neat a job as you can on the coving and reinstate later. It's unlikely to be a "Clyde-built" installation anyway, I agree...so probably no screws in there, and probably the chimney will be shy of the ceiling once you remove the coving. Get it off, rewire it in a sensible, accessible fashion, make good and the job's a good one.
Good advice about the ladder too...and FFS do NOT stand on the hob!

I just wanted to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH .You were absolutely spot on . No screws on the chimny after removing cutting mastic arround the caving .

I m very gratful to you for your help and advice as I manged to fix it and its now fully working order . However i m will be looking for a new one in the near future.

 

[DPG]

Nice one!

 

[Hans]

Run a cut round the mastic. There may be a screw on each side covered by coving, or with luck Kev has left them out and the stainless steel cover will be able to be wiggled off. The cover normally butts onto the ceiling rather than through it. Be careful, as you'll be up a ladder etc and you can't lean on that cooker hood too much . Hopefully underneath the cover will be a nice bit of ducting going up and out and the missing cable going into a switched fuse connection unit. Change the 3A fuse and reinstate. I mentioned the possibility of exposed wires just to remind that Kev may not have done a good job on that bit.

Many many thanks for your help . I manged to fix it and its now in fully working order . Kev left it with screws just relying on mastic.

Much obliged to you for help and support you gave me on this matter .

 

[Hans]

Hi guys

I just thought to drop you all a line to thank you for your support and valuable advices. Its highly appreciated and i m happy to say that with your help , i manged to fix it and its working now .

I ll be looking to get a new one in tgenear future though, so feel free to advice me on a good one.

Warmest regards