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Discuss AEG ceramic hob wiring. in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I assume we are talking of the final connection, between the properties fixed wiring and the appliance?

Yes you can use heat resistant flex, but not necessarily just heat resistant. Any suitable sized cable may suffice.

What does the manufacturer instructions say?
 
I assume we are talking of the final connection, between the properties fixed wiring and the appliance?

Yes you can use heat resistant flex, but not necessarily just heat resistant. Any suitable sized cable may suffice.

What does the manufacturer instructions say?
Hi it says to use H05BB-F or H03V2V2-F that withstands up to 70 degrees.
 
Standard PVC twin&earth is rated at 70degs C.
[automerge]1585496237[/automerge]
6.4KW = 27A. That is the absolute max for 2.5mm cable. I’d be looking for 4 or 6mm.
how big is the MCB for the circuit?
 
If you are talking about a short length from a cooker outlet to the hob then Toolstation sell short lengths of 6mm T&E that avoids a lot of unused wire being bought, for example 3m coil here:
Otherwise if you really want to use round cable then you can buy the HO7RNF style of cable by the meter from CEF or Superlec. I would suggest at least 4mm for a 32A circuit, for example:
 
I did have a chuckle to myself; we’ve had loads of threads on this subject.

OP’s are always told about fixed loads on radial cooker circuits, diversity etc. As been calculated, this hob would have a maximum load of 27A, less with diversity & cycling of each cooking zone.

IMO 2.5mm flexible cable will be fine, OP could probably get away with 1.5mm. He might also have difficulty terminating 6mm cable in the appliances termination box. And before anybody says anything, bootlace ferrules should be used with flexible cables in this scenario.
 
Agreed that 6mm is overkill, only suggested it as you can buy it in short coils for jobs like that. I doubt most DIY folk would find much use for the 98m or so left over from buying a reel of 4mm T&E!

In the old days you could simply but whatever type of cable you needed by the meter, even from Woolworth in the 70s and 80s! At least for some like HO7RNF that is still the case for mail order.

Also have an up-vote for suggesting bootlace ferrules, again a professional touch and a significant advantage for screw fixing fine stranded wires, but very unlikely to be seen by DIY folk.

What worries me about fitting cable that is sized for the appliance & diversity assumptions (and not for the OCPD) is what happens down the line if it simply gets reused on a new appliance. We all know it should be checked and upgraded if necessary, but how many folk outside of professional sparks or the most diligent of DIYers ever does?

Recently a mate of mine was saying his new cooker kept tripping the breaker so they had a bigger one fitted. I suspect I visibly winced when he said that as my first thought was "did anyone check what the cables were rated at?" but I know I am in a minority.
 
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The manufacturer will always state that the appliance shall be connected by a competent person/electrician, who should know about diversity and cable sizes.

When this is not the case, the DIY’er often seeks advice, as is the case here. Don’t think you have plan ahead for the what ifs, if someone is doing something they know nothing about.
 
So loads of advice. I'm going to order 2m of 4mm2 flex from cef and some bootlace ends and fit this then I know it's right.
get the appliance first. you may need to use ring crimps.
 
Hi so am I best using ring crimps like the yellow ones or non insulated ones. The hob has 4 screws in so could take them out and use these if that's safe and allowed.
all depends on the terminals in the appliance. some use ring crimps, some just have the wires inserte alongside the screw ( with ferrukles if flex). have you got a photo of the terminals?
 
I just looked up the AEG manual for a 6.4Kw hob, why am I surprised that it said nothing about cable size or type of connection and was just full of generic statements that could apply to any hob in their range. :rolleyes:
 
What I was alluding too was that Apprentice's need not apply, if everything had to be fitted by qualified electricians, apprentice's could not exist, to be honest any type of engineer is capable of wiring a hob and reading a few diagram's on the back/underside of an appliance, it was not aimed at you, but the stupid manual no offence was meant.
 
What I was alluding too was that Apprentice's need not apply, if everything had to be fitted by qualified electricians, apprentice's could not exist, to be honest any type of engineer is capable of wiring a hob and reading a few diagram's on the back/underside of an appliance, it was not aimed at you, but the stupid manual no offence was meant.

Its purely aimed at litigation.
 
all depends on the terminals in the appliance. some use ring crimps, some just have the wires inserte alongside the screw ( with ferrukles if flex). have you got a photo of the terminals?
This is what I originally done but thought it wasn't ample enough so came here for advice. I don't know weather to use bootlace ferrules or ring crimp connectors. IMG_20200401_191801.jpgIMG_20200401_191819.jpgIMG_20200401_191750.jpg
 
You did not need to make a makeshift link for the top 2 terminals, the manufacturer has supplied one!! It is in your photo, beside the cord clamp.
 
you could use ferrules. the terminals have a square trap plate under the screws. for 2.5mm cable use blue ones.for 4mm or 6mm use yellow. however, as the flex is terminated to the side of the screws as opposed to under the screws, as you have it in the pic.is fine. just make sure that they are tight.
 
From my understanding you can't put a 2.5mm cable on a 32a CB . I would recommend 4mm on the 32a CB or if you decide to stay with the 2.5mm you have to change the CB to 20A
This is an old thread but, there are a few ways that 2.5mm can be installed protected by a 32A breaker without falling foul of any reg.

1. fixed load appliance
2. spur from a ring final circuit
there may be others but I have had a couple of beers so not as sharp upstairs as I am in working hours.
 
This is an old thread but, there are a few ways that 2.5mm can be installed protected by a 32A breaker without falling foul of any reg.

1. fixed load appliance
2. spur from a ring final circuit
there may be others but I have had a couple of beers so not as sharp upstairs as I am in working hours.
Even after a couple of beers you are absolutely correct 😉
 

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