Discuss Can you fit 25mm conduit to a 20mm back box? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello,

Im really new to the world of conduit. I have some 25mm pvc conduit and cant for the life of me seem to fit back boxes with 25mm knockouts. Is there an adapter that fits a 25mm conduit in to a 20mm back box? Can i cut a 25mm hole in the back box? Do the 20mm male adapters allow for 25mm conduit to go into 20mm back boxes?
 
You can get pvc reduces that allow 20mm to fit into 25mm setups, I am not sure but I assume you can get the reverse option too.
 

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Are you using 25mm for the amount of cables in the conduit? If so, it will be tricky to get them through anything smaller.
The hole in the adaptor through the threaded section will be even smaller than the conduit size. So even smaller than 20.

Either back boxes with 25mm holes already, drill the holes out bigger or reduce the conduit size.
 
It might be tricky to "drill" (i.e. holesaw) out any exsiting knock-outs without it coming to a messy end as the cetre bit decides it is being knocked out. If you get a 25mm hole punch it can open out an existing 20mm hole much more easily and neater.
 
As above, look at Q-max punches. I have a 20 and 25 and they are excellent bits of kit.
You drill a small hole, assemble it like a nut and bolt, tighten up and get a very clean hole.

(I often use the 20 punch, a galv coupler and bushes and a metal surface fused spur if adding outside lights and it’s a metal CU with no knockout in a convenient place)
 
I have bought Q-max punches before from both of these places:
However there are other places you might find them, not always as good value or in-stock:
 
I don't think the OP has mentioned specifically which type of box is needed - PVC, steel surface or steel flush. Obviously if it's PVC, a holesaw or step drill goes through it in seconds with minimal risk of splitting, even if you're in the original 20mm entry. The Q-Max punch is best for steel, but if you have to use a holesaw and either the pilot drill or the edge of the saw is within a knockout, you can help prevent it detaching by clamping a small piece of plywood or similar behind it, although the clamp tends to get in the way of the drill.
 
Not sure which way is required, 20 to 25 or 25 to 20, but a 25mm TRS gland often has the stuffing part with a 20mm thread. Discard the stuffing nut and the rubber compression seal, and you have a neat female 20mm to 25mm male adaptor.
 
I have bought Q-max punches before from both of these places:
However there are other places you might find them, not always as good value or in-stock:
Just had a quick look at these, they look good. Have you seen the Milwaukee power tool which does the same thing? Very impressive but very expensive at the same time for what it does. The Q Max cutter looks a great alternative. It says to use and Allen key or spanner/socket set to tighten up but do you know if a socket attachment for an impact driver would work to make it quicker?
 
So i can put my 25mm conduit into this have a very small 20mm out the other side and then a female and male adapter to connect to the 20mm back box! Probably i very long way to do it but it should still work. Does that make sense? Ha

Will your cables fit through it though?
 
So i can put my 25mm conduit into this have a very small 20mm out the other side and then a female and male adapter to connect to the 20mm back box! Probably i very long way to do it but it should still work. Does that make sense? Ha

Yes you could do that, but it will be an ugly mess, hopefully this isn't for a customer!

If the cables can fit through a 20mm hole why are you using 25mm conduit?

And if a 25mm conduit is required for number/size of cables then drill the 20mm hole out bigger with a cone cutter/step drill.
 
Yes you could do that, but it will be an ugly mess, hopefully this isn't for a customer!

If the cables can fit through a 20mm hole why are you using 25mm conduit?

And if a 25mm conduit is required for number/size of cables then drill the 20mm hole out bigger with a cone cutter/step drill.
Ok thank you, its not for a customer, its for me i like the idea of making the whole bigger
 

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