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Discuss Continuity RFC error??Help please in the The Welcome Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I don't intend to become a spark as means of income. I certainly don't feel confident enough to work on other peoples properties but I do have several properties myself that will require wiring at some point. I think I will get a job with the local council for some experience in the meantime.
Don't take long to learn how to lean on a shovel.
 
Give the lads at truetech training in cardiff a ring, they teach their courses on KT63 and have a "idiots guide" with step by step testing using that meter, get yourself a copy of the PDF and keep it in the bag
 
Give the lads at truetech training in cardiff a ring, they teach their courses on KT63 and have a "idiots guide" with step by step testing using that meter, get yourself a copy of the PDF and keep it in the bag
if ask most of the sparks on this forum and did pole on which test equipment do you use most would say a Megger .why because they are easy to use and under stand .
 
The Kewtech KT63 user-manual shows that the maximum continuity result shows as 19.99kOhms, meaning that the conductors tested are open-circuit.

The scary thing is, ring-final circuits can still function as normal when a single live-conductor is open-circuit, presenting a danger of over-current on the remaining conductors. Conversely radial-final circuits will not function when a single live-conductor is open-circuit, resulting in a relatively safer mode of failure.

Check between all terminations to identify the fault.
 
Just a thought - and I have read this all late - what about paying an electrician with some experience to visit your home and do the work with you, using your test kit, and thereby providing you with some 'words from the wise' and consolidation of what you have learned but not much practiced yet? Money well spent I would have thought and perhaps someone to refer to at a later date. You can show him your certificates and explain the course you did to him. But this approach would provide you with some self-confidence with your test kit and interpreting wiring.
 
Kewtech meters show 19.99 for an open circuit. It sounds to me that it's two radials rather than a ring circuit and thats's why it's been protected by a 20A breaker, had it been an open circuit ring circuit I would have expected to see a 32A MCB instead. Awful job been done there with that wiring.
 
Kewtech meters show 19.99 for an open circuit. It sounds to me that it's two radials rather than a ring circuit and thats's why it's been protected by a 20A breaker, had it been an open circuit ring circuit I would have expected to see a 32A MCB instead. Awful job been done there with that wiring.
 
I'm liking that the forum members are a lot more helpful than it was a couple of years back. Fair play guys.
OP. Definately make it one of your jobs to tidy up that consumer unit. Have a look inside other boards that are neat with the cables dressed nice and ensure your terminations are sound with out conductor showing outside the terminals but not clamping any insulation. The others have already advised regarding the RFC tests so I won't go on about that. Good luck with it!
 
Kewtech meters show 19.99 for an open circuit. It sounds to me that it's two radials rather than a ring circuit and thats's why it's been protected by a 20A breaker, had it been an open circuit ring circuit I would have expected to see a 32A MCB instead. Awful job been done there with that wiring.
Thanks your right it is two radials. I am going to strip down the CU tomorrow & rebuild. P.S it was an NIC-EIC installer that did it or signed it off. Iv'e got the certificates.
 
Just a thought - and I have read this all late - what about paying an electrician with some experience to visit your home and do the work with you, using your test kit, and thereby providing you with some 'words from the wise' and consolidation of what you have learned but not much practiced yet? Money well spent I would have thought and perhaps someone to refer to at a later date. You can show him your certificates and explain the course you did to him. But this approach would provide you with some self-confidence with your test kit and interpreting wiring.
Good advise thank you
 
tidied up the CU today, any constructive comments + or - ??

Screenshot_2017-12-14-15-32-03.png


20171124_113631.jpg
 
Cable entries are a bit rough, no grommets, not sure about the IP rates on the side, and the bottom internal could do with a clean, plus not keen on the curls made in the Live Brown conductors
Cool thanks. bottom picture is before top is after. I just used the existing 10 year old wiring & CU already installed I should have bought some grommets though. I did clean the bottom tray. I don't think I did too bad for a first time touching a CU. Thanks for the comments though.
 
Cool thanks. bottom picture is before top is after. I just used the existing 10 year old wiring & CU already installed I should have bought some grommets though. I did clean the bottom tray. I don't think I did too bad for a first time touching a CU. Thanks for the comments though.
fair play to you there. it's better than a lot that i've seen.
 
The right hand side busbar in the after pic is not on correctly.

And as said, ditch the Wylex MCB and fit a blank
 
You need to work on those bus bars,they look a mess,straighten the left hand mcbs out and no doubt it may then sit correctly

Try dressing cables with more acute bends and don't try to get to the connections too quick,more bends needed rather than untidy sweeps

Finally,ditch those pig tails they are an eyesore, then get hold of a Hoover
 
sort out the bussbar and its better than it was originally , better than alot ive seen

got a board change tomorrow, my favourite , sit in one place for half a day? suits me fine (3 boards into 1) before any wise ones slip in how they do boards in 2 hours.

the more you do the better you get, work from the furthest end of the board from your cable entries to keep it tidy as you work, same applies for running cables on tray and basket, start at the furthest point so cables arent crossing over
 
You need to work on those bus bars,they look a mess,straighten the left hand mcbs out and no doubt it may then sit correctly

Try dressing cables with more acute bends and don't try to get to the connections too quick,more bends needed rather than untidy sweeps

Finally,ditch those pig tails they are an eyesore, then get hold of a Hoover
Thank you for the good advise I will take it on board. Just to let you know most of the cables were pre cut by the previous installer & I also had to take some cables from left through to the right hand side as they were all bunched through the left if that makes sense i did hoover tho lol you just can't see it as I cropped the photo. Thanks for the advise.

20171214_140234.jpg
 
sort out the bussbar and its better than it was originally , better than alot ive seen

got a board change tomorrow, my favourite , sit in one place for half a day? suits me fine (3 boards into 1) before any wise ones slip in how they do boards in 2 hours.

the more you do the better you get, work from the furthest end of the board from your cable entries to keep it tidy as you work, same applies for running cables on tray and basket, start at the furthest point so cables arent crossing over
sort out the bussbar and its better than it was originally , better than alot ive seen

got a board change tomorrow, my favourite , sit in one place for half a day? suits me fine (3 boards into 1) before any wise ones slip in how they do boards in 2 hours.

the more you do the better you get, work from the furthest end of the board from your cable entries to keep it tidy as you work, same applies for running cables on tray and basket, start at the furthest point so cables arent crossing over
Thanks very much for the advise I do have a couple of board changes (of my own) to do before Christmas this was sort of my first attempt (tiding up) before I actually do one so I'm looking forward to it. Thanks again
 
The bus bar on circuit 5 and 6 on the unprotected ways looks a bit low?
Otherwise not too bad, I had one recently that was a nightmare, the cables looked a pigs ear as the rcbos took up too much space and was a distressed change and had to use a smaller than ideal CU, so now very crowded i couldn't do my usual ocd thing of making everything pretty. With Hager they often place the earth bar in the centre and it gets in the way of the terminations on rcbos. you can move it but if you have a full CU it doesnt really help things.
 
With practice you can use your thumb and index finger to grip and then run along the conductors to 'iron out' previous bends and dog legs.
 
With practice you can use your thumb and index finger to grip and then run along the conductors to 'iron out' previous bends and dog legs.
Don't half burn your fingers though if you have a lot of ironing out, Marconi. Good way of getting rid of your finger prints as well.
 
The bus bar on circuit 5 and 6 on the unprotected ways looks a bit low?
Otherwise not too bad, I had one recently that was a nightmare, the cables looked a pigs ear as the rcbos took up too much space and was a distressed change and had to use a smaller than ideal CU, so now very crowded i couldn't do my usual ocd thing of making everything pretty. With Hager they often place the earth bar in the centre and it gets in the way of the terminations on rcbos. you can move it but if you have a full CU it doesnt really help things.
Thank you for your comments & I have resolved the busbar issue many thanks
 
Wiring a CU has reminded me of when I was a lad and my next door neighbour who taught electrical installation theory and practice at the town college. After he taught the theory and students put the wiring in practice for the first time, he would then go on to his 'time is money' masterclass - how to install a ceiling rose and wired pendant (say) in the most efficient way yet still achieving a neat outcome. What length conductors, how much insulation to strip back, labelling, order of connection, which way to bend conductors and finally final checks on terminal tightness. The idea being to have as few steps including number of tool changes as possible. Time and motion if you like. At the end of the course there was a keenly contested competition for each of the common wiring jobs. Interestingly, every so often one of the students found a simpler and/or quicker way which became the latest best way. Paid dividends to those who followed the examples and then had to do high volume 'price' wiring jobs. The idea being to create dexterity from muscle-memory through repetition.

He also encouraged ambidextrousness.

As ever , practice makes for perfection.
 
Wiring a CU has reminded me of when I was a lad and my next door neighbour who taught electrical installation theory and practice at the town college. After he taught the theory and students put the wiring in practice for the first time, he would then go on to his 'time is money' masterclass - how to install a ceiling rose and wired pendant (say) in the most efficient way yet still achieving a neat outcome. What length conductors, how much insulation to strip back, labelling, order of connection, which way to bend conductors and finally final checks on terminal tightness. The idea being to have as few steps including number of tool changes as possible. Time and motion if you like. At the end of the course there was a keenly contested competition for each of the common wiring jobs. Interestingly, every so often one of the students found a simpler and/or quicker way which became the latest best way. Paid dividends to those who followed the examples and then had to do high volume 'price' wiring jobs. The idea being to create dexterity from muscle-memory through repetition.

He also encouraged ambidextrousness.

As ever , practice makes for perfection.

... now that is something I would really be interested in!
 

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