Discuss Help - melted plug - why? in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

It's been connected for the last 3 months and has worked perfectly (or so I thought). Feel a bit bad that I've only just checked the plug!
 
It isn't the best idea to load a 13A plug up to 3kw and I suspect this has been occurring for some time judging by the damage.
 
It isn't the best idea to load a 13A plug up to 3kw and I suspect this has been occurring for some time judging by the damage.

So how to I safely get power to the immersion? Need to be able to connect and disconnect via plug as it's in a van!

The other chap who I do this with has a less manly flex and although his gets hot, it's not meeting hot.
 
I think a re-think is necessary. As its your business, I would suggest employing an electrician, and your set re-designed.

Fair point. Main problem it actually finding one who will come and look at the job. Have been let down consistently by tradesmen of all descriptions countless times over the last couple of years. I'm always courteous, and expect to pay what the job costs - but it seems that most sparkies have more work than they need, and don't even want to quote for work!
 
So how to I safely get power to the immersion? Need to be able to connect and disconnect via plug as it's in a van!

The other chap who I do this with has a less manly flex and although his gets hot, it's not meeting hot.
Do you leave the flex coiled up when in use?
 
Hi - observation is the 13A plug melted when used at about 13A. A 13A fuse won't blow when there's a 3kW load and no fault, but maybe there was a bit of corrosion/tarnish on the 13A fuse and that made it a bit more resistive and so it ran hot? Anyway, perhaps a new circuit from your CU with 16A socket and plug would fix this?

IMG_0736.jpg
 
Hi - observation is the 13A plug melted when used at about 13A. A 13A fuse won't blow when there's a 3kW load and no fault, but maybe there was a bit of corrosion/tarnish on the 13A fuse and that made it a bit more resistive and so it ran hot? Anyway, perhaps a new circuit from your CU with 16A socket and plug would fix this?

View attachment 37691

Would a 16A socket and plug suffice? - running a new circuit off the CU would be a ball ache due to its location.
 
Does this "Neutral" issue mean it will dislike you fitting an RCD to external sockets ?
(very un-fit product)
 
Hi - observation is the 13A plug melted when used at about 13A. A 13A fuse won't blow when there's a 3kW load and no fault, but maybe there was a bit of corrosion/tarnish on the 13A fuse and that made it a bit more resistive and so it ran hot? Anyway, perhaps a new circuit from your CU with 16A socket and plug would fix this?

View attachment 37691
ON a dedicated circuit though
 
Would a 16A socket and plug suffice? - running a new circuit off the CU would be a ball ache due to its location.

As Pete mentioned earlier, informative guidance in the wiring regs is loads of more than 2kW, should have their own dedicated circuit, like most storage water heaters are on, probably for the reasons you've encounter. As well as putting a load on your ring circuit, which might unbalance things.

Another consideration, is what type of supply you have, as I assume you set up is somehow fixed into your van?

Edit; Pete got there first
 
Hi - observation is the 13A plug melted when used at about 13A. A 13A fuse won't blow when there's a 3kW load and no fault, but maybe there was a bit of corrosion/tarnish on the 13A fuse and that made it a bit more resistive and so it ran hot? Anyway, perhaps a new circuit from your CU with 16A socket and plug would fix this?

View attachment 37691
ON a dedicated circuit though
Would a 16A socket and plug suffice? - running a new circuit off the CU would be a ball ache due to its location.
If you're going to use a 16 Amp plug and socket, then it's a dedicated circuit
 
It has little to do with the fact it should be on a dedicated circuit but more that the plug top fuse has endured excessive current but a 16A socket is the solution.
 
It has little to do with the fact it should be on a dedicated circuit but more that the plug top fuse has endured excessive current but a 16A socket is the solution.
Of course it does
 
I don't know? Would it?
The Wi-Fi plug thing, isolating the neutral but not the live, cannot be right. This would turn 'off' anything connected to, but the device would still be 'live'. I doubt very much, if this is how it's designed. So you either have a connection problem, or your 'testing device' is wrong.
 
Another consideration, is what type of supply you have, as I assume you set up is somehow fixed into your van?

Edit; Pete got there first

It goes to a plug fitted to the flex coming out of the immersion element. It's never got hot, just slightly warm.
 

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