Hoping a Sparky can help

[westward10]

From the pic of the new fan the red and yellow need swapping to correspond with the old fan connections and theoretically it should function. Had the old fan stopped operating.

 

[curly]

Left to right it should be yellow red blue

 

[PaullyC]

Thanks, that is how I have it and it is constantly on once the isolator is turned on. The light switch does nothing. Then the only way to turn off is switch off isolation switch.

Do pros install these extra fuse on the wiring diagram above. It says 5 but the main unit is a 6amp fuse. Is there any simple way to do thus please?

 

[PaullyC]

After testing the cables in they all work. The old unit plugged back in works as it should.

I am thinking either the transformer unit is duff or I just wire it so the timer doesn’t work.

But this 5 amp fuse thing.

All my lights are now LED bulbs in the entire house, so the current they draw on the circuit is miles less. Can I just swap the main fuse to a 5 amp? Would that be the same as a 5 amp in line fuse?

Thanks for peoples’ help.

 

[westward10]

The manufacturer recommends the fuse for fire protection in the event the fan should seize the fuse should blow, this is normally 3A but the absence of the fuse will not prevent correct operation of the fan.

 

[The Ghost]

It is not the main "fuse" I am talking about that is 6a, leave that alone. So on your boiler for instance is there a switch that the wire for the boiler comes out? If so that is a fused spur, it has a fuse in it local to the appliance separate from the MCB at your consumer unit. I am saying the supply to the fan should be on a triple pole isolator usually outside the bathroom with a switched and fused spur giving the supply. Is it difficult? well it's easy if you know how. Don't take a chance get an electricican to make sure everything is as it should be.

 

[PaullyC]

THanks i understand what needs doing but that means another crazy expense for what seems to be a nonsense.

I have been looking at the click mini grid. But it will create a massive eyesore.

I think I will look for another fan that does not need this fuse. Another thread mentions some manufacturers.

 

[curly]

If it's not working you have a problem with the fan or the the switched live cable
The switched live cable tells the fan when the light comes on and to activate the permanent live is to keep it running the additional time set by the timer


Get a spark to test and fit

 

[PaullyC]

I have bitten the bullet and got my guy coming.

I have tested the switched live and it is working. I think it is the unit.

Need to test the value the SL produces.

Thanks

 

[PaullyC]

If it's not working you have a problem with the fan or the the switched live cable
The switched live cable tells the fan when the light comes on and to activate the permanent live is to keep it running the additional time set by the timer


Get a spark to test and fit

Thanks for all your help. Last question I promise.

I am very interested in your comment about switched live. I did some more tests. With the switched live off (switch contacts open) there is still 70 volts showing between SL and neutral. Then normal 240 with switch contacts closed.

Would you expect that? Seems a bit odd to me to get 70 volts, hence why I ponder your switched live potential issue you raised?

The spark is going to come if I can get him.

 

[Strima]

Thanks for all your help. Last question I promise.

I am very interested in your comment about switched live. I did some more tests. With the switched live off (switch contacts open) there is still 70 volts showing between SL and neutral. Then normal 240 with switch contacts closed.

Would you expect that? Seems a bit odd to me to get 70 volts, hence why I ponder your switched live potential issue you raised?

The spark is going to come if I can get him.

Induced voltage from other circuits, pretty common. Wasn't really an issue until we started using LED lamps and they started flickering when switched off.

 

[PaullyC]

Interesting thanks. Solve one problem but gives you another to deal with. Fun

 

[PaullyC]

Reading page 6 of the 2013 Part P on the government website it does not mention Kitchen as a special location. Is this the case please?

 

[telectrix]

Reading page 6 of the 2013 Part P on the government website it does not mention Kitchen as a special location. Is this the case please?

kitchens are not special locations and as such do not applytopart. unless new circuits are involved. as for the fan.some fans , when 1st powered up, need to be left running till they stop. then should work OK.

 

[PaullyC]

Thanks. That’s what I thought but an ekectrician was trying to tell me otherwise even when I showed him wording of bathroom and all the dimensikns part P quotes.

I have a new one now which works. Think timer was duff.

 

[PaullyC]

I have a current EICR. I am getting my cu replaced so they are all RCBos.

One electrician says he can use my current EICR. Another is saying I need a new one.

Could anyone help please? What does the rule book say?

 

[Strima]

An EICR is like an MOT and is only really valid for the time it was carried out.

For a CU change I would still be carrying out some basic testing to identify any potential problems such as failing insulation, borrowed neutrals, dodgy DIY installs etc. Do the CU change and issue an EIC.

 

[Wilko]

Hi Paully - can I ask why you are having this update - if it's because of problems then perhaps get those addressed first? I'd be thrilled to have a report to work off

 

[PaullyC]

It is all on one RCD which is the switch also. So it’s a pain if it trips. I am having a bsthroom re done so thought made sense to do it while I had some funds.

I also want all RCBos

 

[Octopus]

I have a current EICR. I am getting my cu replaced so they are all RCBos.

One electrician says he can use my current EICR. Another is saying I need a new one.

Could anyone help please? What does the rule book say?

The rule book says a change of fuseboard must be certificated by issuing a Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) and as you are in England this falls under Part P of the building regs so please ensure that the sparky can self certify and notify....