Hoping a Sparky can help

[westward10]

From the pic of the new fan the red and yellow need swapping to correspond with the old fan connections and theoretically it should function. Had the old fan stopped operating.

 

[curly]

Left to right it should be yellow red blue

 

[PaullyC]

Thanks, that is how I have it and it is constantly on once the isolator is turned on. The light switch does nothing. Then the only way to turn off is switch off isolation switch.

Do pros install these extra fuse on the wiring diagram above. It says 5 but the main unit is a 6amp fuse. Is there any simple way to do thus please?

 

[PaullyC]

After testing the cables in they all work. The old unit plugged back in works as it should.

I am thinking either the transformer unit is duff or I just wire it so the timer doesn’t work.

But this 5 amp fuse thing.

All my lights are now LED bulbs in the entire house, so the current they draw on the circuit is miles less. Can I just swap the main fuse to a 5 amp? Would that be the same as a 5 amp in line fuse?

Thanks for peoples’ help.

 

[westward10]

The manufacturer recommends the fuse for fire protection in the event the fan should seize the fuse should blow, this is normally 3A but the absence of the fuse will not prevent correct operation of the fan.

 

[The Ghost]

It is not the main "fuse" I am talking about that is 6a, leave that alone. So on your boiler for instance is there a switch that the wire for the boiler comes out? If so that is a fused spur, it has a fuse in it local to the appliance separate from the MCB at your consumer unit. I am saying the supply to the fan should be on a triple pole isolator usually outside the bathroom with a switched and fused spur giving the supply. Is it difficult? well it's easy if you know how. Don't take a chance get an electricican to make sure everything is as it should be.

 

[PaullyC]

THanks i understand what needs doing but that means another crazy expense for what seems to be a nonsense.

I have been looking at the click mini grid. But it will create a massive eyesore.

I think I will look for another fan that does not need this fuse. Another thread mentions some manufacturers.

 

[curly]

If it's not working you have a problem with the fan or the the switched live cable
The switched live cable tells the fan when the light comes on and to activate the permanent live is to keep it running the additional time set by the timer


Get a spark to test and fit

 

[PaullyC]

I have bitten the bullet and got my guy coming.

I have tested the switched live and it is working. I think it is the unit.

Need to test the value the SL produces.

Thanks

 

[PaullyC]

If it's not working you have a problem with the fan or the the switched live cable
The switched live cable tells the fan when the light comes on and to activate the permanent live is to keep it running the additional time set by the timer


Get a spark to test and fit

Thanks for all your help. Last question I promise.

I am very interested in your comment about switched live. I did some more tests. With the switched live off (switch contacts open) there is still 70 volts showing between SL and neutral. Then normal 240 with switch contacts closed.

Would you expect that? Seems a bit odd to me to get 70 volts, hence why I ponder your switched live potential issue you raised?

The spark is going to come if I can get him.