neutrals at switches

[davelerave]

Agree competely Ian.
I think there is a place for both methods, but using the neutral at switch as a preferance over 3 plate on a regular basis would not be a good thing. 3 plate in domestic installs is well proven, yes there are examples when the latter may prove beneficial but not as a replacement to tried and tested methods. If its not broke, why fix it.

you have to isolate the circuit with 3-plate to change fitting

also light fitting is congested with wires

 

[baldsparkies]

you have to isolate the circuit with 3-plate to change fitting

also light fitting is congested with wires

I would isolate if changing a fitting anyway, regardless. The click (Oh sorry didnt see you up there) scenario, whilst your doing your version of a breakdancer up a ladder doesnt appeal to me.

 

[davelerave]

it's basically the same thing

loop to switches or loop to lights-much easier to swop out fitings with just the t+e

less diy disasters as well

loop in to lights is handier for re-wires

 

[baldsparkies]

What about the diy guy changing the light switch. I think this one goes here and that one goes there. Right, lets switch on BANG!!.
Lets face it there are pros and cons for both methods.

 

[davelerave]

changing the light switch is identical both methods

walking to work is tried and tested but we use cars these days -think about that

 

[wattsup]

loop out ceiling is ok when one fitting, but 12 lights switched 2-gang is a semi-problem (not problem really but hassle). It is easier to first fix loop in ceiling, but much harder 2nd fix.

If it were a new build, i would use singles all the time

 

[baldsparkies]

changing the light switch is identical both methods

walking to work is tried and tested but we use cars these days -think about that

Youv'e just explained why I can't see my willy anymore.

 

[specs]

It would be mighty congested if you had a two gang two way switch with neutrals at the switch.

Which is exactly what i have, which is why i have been reading this forum. 2x supply 2 core an earth (one in, one out to next room) 2x 3core an earth, 2x 2core an earth to lights. I can get rid of one supply cable by moviing it to the last room on that particular circuit but that still leaves me with5 cables in one switch box ie 17 individual cores. my initial thought was oh s..t, but now i'm thinking shall i just make the box deeper ( a lot deeper ). I am fitting 14 downlighters split on the two circuits. Any thoughts !!!

 

[Rockingit]

Haven't got BGB to hand, but I believe that 2011 now says that consideration should be given to provide a neutral at a switch position. The intent behind this is for electronic switching devices that require one.

 

[chronyx]

Beat me to it, you can get neutral-free electronic switches but using them with discharge lighting means install capacitors in all the fittings.

 

[specs]

Got it sorted, used a 47mm box and set it a tad deeper, then used Wago connectors . I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was with these connectors and it didn't look like a plate of ' spag bol' when i finished.

 

[Knobhead]

To be honest it’s something I’ve never done. But the last house I rewired was 25 years back. It does make sense to take the neutral to the switch.
With new switch technology a neutral may be required in the future. OK a deeper box is needed but I now would say it’s worth the effort. (There again I’m not knocking the hole out for it).

 

[nickblake]

with some of the light fittings you get the connection they have are so small easier to switch feed them prime example is wall lights

 

[specs]

This is now the way forward for me, i cannot for the life of me see a a negative.

 

[DNG]

One possible reason for neutral at switch, would be to allow an earth loop impedance check at a metal clad switch. Thus saving trailing cables giving marginally incorrect readings.

 

[Swicade]

Being one of those sparks used to installing 3 plate (stuck in me ways i reckon) i'm starting to wonder if instead of just using a twin & earth for my switch cable i might use a 3 core and earth instead...giving me a 3 plate + neutral at the switch. Only problem is 2 neutrals in one hole at the ceiling rose *ponders*

 

[Guest55]

I've been looping in and out from the switches for 15 years , so have all the other sparks i've grown up with who have served their time in the commercial sector.
Pro's outweigh the cons in my mind.

 

[rich.250]

Looping at the switch is so much easier to install in my opinion.
Easier to fit the crappy customer supplied fittings designed for one cable....
And less Connections to make off
Above your head! Especially as I'm
Short lol.
Nice and easy at working height at the
Switch

 

[KFH]

I use which ever method works best for the installation I am working on. I do have a preference for neutral at the switch, so many modern light fittings will not easily take a 3 plate connection. I usually put in deeper back boxes for switches to allow for dimmers to be fitted in the future. I have also, in bungalows, fitted junction boxes at convenient locations and taken T&E to switch and to lights.

 

[YoungBart]

Working in the modular building game we always loop into the switch. IMO it's alot easier, and dare I say abit simpler, When I was at college however I was told it was bad practice, and wasn't allowed to wire any of the rigs that way.
Personally I think there are pro's and con's to both, But for me looping at the switch is the better option in most cases, Unless your looping into a pull switch or something like that.