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Discuss New kitchen does it need own fusebox or change just the mains fusebox? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I read in some forums that people read in the manual that it invalidates warranty

Think of it another way and forget about what manuals might state...

If you damaged an appliance flex and had it replaced, would you expect this to void the warranty? Consumer law would not be on the manufacturer's side, should they reject a claim under such circumstances.
 
It won't invalidate warranty if done correctly......but why hard wire appliances if they come with a 13a plug connected? If you have problems with them it just creates more.
Is he talking about FCU's at worktop height with sockets below?
 
It won't invalidate warranty if done correctly......but why hard wire appliances if they come with a 13a plug connected? If you have problems with them it just creates more.
Is he talking about FCU's at worktop height with sockets below?
Hi

Does it really cause more problems? I'm reading Conflicting reports.

Yes FCU at worktop with hardwire behind cooker
 
Socket in adjacent cupboard.

Sometimes there’s not enough space directly behind an appliance for a plug.

You need to be able to isolate an appliance quickly… so switch above worktop, or accessible socket.

I also think myself you need to be able to quickly remove an appliance from the property if it starts smoking.
 
Socket in adjacent cupboard.

Sometimes there’s not enough space directly behind an appliance for a plug.

You need to be able to isolate an appliance quickly… so switch above worktop, or accessible socket.

I also think myself you need to be able to quickly remove an appliance from the property if it starts smoking.
The isolation switch is above worktop level and the hardwire is behind the cooker
 
The isolation switch is above worktop level and the hardwire is behind the cooker
When you mention "cooker", do you mean with a hob on top, grill and oven(s)? Or is it just an oven unit?
If the former it needs a circuit rated for a cooker, and a proper cooker switch, not a 13A fcu. And not a 13A plug 🤪
 
When you mention "cooker", do you mean with a hob on top, grill and oven(s)? Or is it just an oven unit?
If the former it needs a circuit rated for a cooker, and a proper cooker switch, not a 13A fcu. And not a 13A plug 🤪
Its a gas double oven with electric grill option and 4 gas hobs
 
Its a gas double oven with electric grill option and 4 gas hobs
OK, fine. That's a combination I didn't consider! No problem with the proposed arrangements.

There's been much said on the interweb about cutting off of an appliance plug invalidating warranty.
It's generally considered here to be a myth.
 
Not really no. Sorry to say this about women on their behalf and mine but im a woman and pretty much clueless
So it seems...........sorry, only joking, Ell 😉.......and to all our competent women members.

I think it might be best if you had a word with your electrician for a decent explanation that you can understand, to put your mind at rest. Ask why there is any need for fixed wired appliances (rather than plug-in). I've a feeling there might not be....and there may be no intention of using them. If there is, you'll know why.
 
Can a plug socket (not hardwired) be at the back of a fridge freezer, providing there is an isolation switch. Im going to ask my electrician but wanted to ask here too
 
Can a plug socket (not hardwired) be at the back of a fridge freezer, providing there is an isolation switch. Im going to ask my electrician but wanted to ask here too

What do you mean by not hard wired? Do you mean an extension cable that is plugged into a different socket somewhere?

Better to have a 'proper' fixed socket while the wiring is being redone.
 
Yes a standard socket can be fitted behind a fridge. This is very common.
But with an isolation switch
I've read a plug socket behind the fridge (and this is a third up from the base of the bridge) is dangerous. Because of heat and leaks? That's what I read
But we have an isolation switch
 
It is quite common in Scotland where the building regulations specify that "white goods" should have an accessible means of isolation to have an un-switched 13A socket behind the fridge/washing machine/etc and then a 20A switch above the worktop area so you can switch it off without having the move it.

EDIT: By "quite common" I mean in newer kitchens wired by an electrician.
 
But with an isolation switch
I've read a plug socket behind the fridge (and this is a third up from the base of the bridge) is dangerous. Because of heat and leaks? That's what I read
But we have an isolation switch
Plenty bull***t around.......and not just on the internet.
Read and take in #112 and #120. Get the electrician to explain his intentions instead of faffing about and, seemingly, getting nowhere.
 
Plenty bull***t around.......and not just on the internet.
Read and take in #112 and #120. Get the electrician to explain his intentions instead of faffing about and, seemingly, getting nowhere.
Oh so our electrician completed 2nd fix today and installed plug sockets. He put a plug socket behind the cooker about a 3rd in from the ground amd and isolation switch on the wall to the left. I thought it would be hard wired. Is this safe? Its a double gas oven with option for electric grill inside

I spoke to my electrician and he explained its safe but I didnt understand the terms he used
 
Oh so our electrician completed 2nd fix today and installed plug sockets. He put a plug socket behind the cooker about a 3rd in from the ground amd and isolation switch on the wall to the left. I thought it would be hard wired. Is this safe? Its a double gas oven with option for electric grill inside

I spoke to my electrician and he explained its safe but I didnt understand the terms he used
The heat won't melt the plug?
 
You say “option” for an electric grill? Is it there or not?
Otherwise, the electric is just for an igniter or clock. Hardly any load.
Even with a grill, that’s only maybe 2800W. Fine on a plug, IF the appliance came with a plug fitted. If not, would have put into a connection plate.

Should still be on its own circuit at over 2kW not just off the general sockets ring.
 
You say “option” for an electric grill? Is it there or not?
Otherwise, the electric is just for an igniter or clock. Hardly any load.
Even with a grill, that’s only maybe 2800W. Fine on a plug, IF the appliance came with a plug fitted. If not, would have put into a connection plate.

Should still be on its own circuit at over 2kW not just off the general sockets ring.
Its the belling 60g cookcentre its 2 gas and an electric grill so basically you can use the 2nd oven as a grill
 
Its the belling 60g cookcentre its 2 gas and an electric grill so basically you can use the 2nd oven as a grill
You say “option” for an electric grill? Is it there or not?
Otherwise, the electric is just for an igniter or clock. Hardly any load.
Even with a grill, that’s only maybe 2800W. Fine on a plug, IF the appliance came with a plug fitted. If not, would have put into a connection plate.

Should still be on its own circuit at over 2kW not just off the general sockets ring.
It came with a plug and we have our own fusebox just for the new electrics in the kitchen
 
Oh so our electrician completed 2nd fix today and installed plug sockets. He put a plug socket behind the cooker about a 3rd in from the ground amd and isolation switch on the wall to the left. I thought it would be hard wired. Is this safe? Its a double gas oven with option for electric grill inside

I spoke to my electrician and he explained its safe but I didnt understand the terms he used
I give up! 🥺
 
It came with a plug and we have our own fusebox just for the new electrics in the kitchen
The electrician has done a good job and from what you’ve explained on here raises no issue to concern. I really don’t understand what you’re problem is with the electrician. You’re looking for faults on here but absolutely nothing wrong with the install pay him up
 
The electrician has done a good job and from what you’ve explained on here raises no issue to concern. I really don’t understand what you’re problem is with the electrician. You’re looking for faults on here but absolutely nothing wrong with the install pay him up
Of course I paid him!
I was double checking some things. It was a big refurbishment of the whole kitchen and it was completed Tuesday 21st December and they only asked for payment on 23rd

The building company didn't charge me for any of the sockets just for the new fusebox and 1st fix and a certificate

Do you usually have to pay for a certificate as an additional cost or does that just come as a package with a new fusebox

Merry Christmas by the way
 
The test certificate should come as part of the work, as it’s not actually complete without the cert, neither should it be energised before being tested….. however, many electricians who have been stung in the past concerning being paid on time hold back the cert until payment has been made. The testing and certificate has been done, it’s just not in the hands of the customer.

If you’ve paid, there’s no reason to withhold the cert.
 
Hi All

I received the electrical certificate just to confirm we had new wiring in the kitchen and fusebox and on the cert it just says new kitchen circuits then on another page he has listed what circuits etc

Should it say "fusebox installed" also
?

He has also sent me the building regulations paperwork he is NICEIC registered

Before asking him i just don't want to sound stupid

Thank you
 
Hi All

I received the electrical certificate just to confirm we had new wiring in the kitchen and fusebox and on the cert it just says new kitchen circuits then on another page he has listed what circuits etc

Should it say "fusebox installed" also
?

He has also sent me the building regulations paperwork he is NICEIC registered

Before asking him i just don't want to sound stupid

Thank you
Does it need to say something along the lines of "new kitchen fusebox installed for new kitchen circuits "

It just says "new kitchen circuits "
 
Devil might be in the details, it should at least identify the fact there is more than one DB (CU) now, though all that really matters is the new circuits were properly designed and implemented (i.e. tested)
 
Devil might be in the details, it should at least identify the fact there is more than one DB (CU) now, though all that really matters is the new circuits were properly designed and implemented (i.e. tested)
Something tells me that things could well be well in order. It's sometimes all about being able to interpret information given. As previously advised, it's no doubt the best way forward to get a full explanation from the person who best knows......the installer.......rather that tie yourself in knots.
If not happy, get someone else qualified to take a look.
 

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