Newbie

[Steve_rutland]

Yes, but at this stage, I've taken the forums advice, and gone for decent panels. Am down to 24 from 28 of them due to spacing issues, so the cost is nearly the same.

 

[Steve_rutland]

There's always a fly in the ointment! Just been offered ZNShine 250w monos at a price that saves me over £900! Specs on the net don't look bad. Do you guys have any feedback on them.
The panels are ZXM6-60-250/M

 

[Vegelen]

There's always a fly in the ointment! Just been offered ZNShine 250w monos at a price that saves me over £900! Specs on the net don't look bad. Do you guys have any feedback on them.
The panels are ZXM6-60-250/M

How much have you been offered the ZXM6-60-250/M for per panel excluding VAT?
What is the delivery cost?

 

[Steve_rutland]

PM'd. Delivery is free as i can collect ( local )

 

[whinmoor]

Is the supplier reputable? Don't want stuff off back of lorry. None of these, I hope:

Solar panels worth £30,000 stolen from business park - Crime - Jarrow and Hebburn Gazette
Huge reward for return of stolen solar panels - Community - The Star
Shed load of solar panels stolen in raid at Cambridge green energy firm | Cambridge City News, Cambridge Local News Stories & Latest Headlines About Cambridge

 

[Steve_rutland]

Yes it's a big operation.

 

[Vegelen]

How To Avoid Buying Counterfeit / Stolen Panels:

http://sunsourcesolarbrokers.com/kn...ar-panels-are-counterfeits-of-the-real-thing/

"If you’re a real “do it yourselfer”, then beware of the risk of buying stolen solar panels or knock-offs second hand from a private seller. Again, you will want to right down the serial numbers and model numbers of any secondary market purchase you’re about to make to assure they are not reported as stolen. You’re not only protecting yourself from a pseudo-fake-counterfeit panel, but also from a possible arrest for buying stolen goods or merchandise."

 

[moggy1968]

as has been said on here a number of times before posting trade prices on a public forum is not very helpful to those of us trying to make a living out there

 

[Steve_rutland]

Sorry, changed my post & if Vegelen does the same we should be good.

 

[moggy1968]

thanks:wink_smile:

 

[Steve_rutland]

I have panels!! ;-)
Hoping for good weather this weekend now.

 

[gonefishing]

Hi I'm new on here too. Any one any advice on becoming an installer for PV panels? can you still use your own install as evidence for the assessment and any ideas of costs?

 

[moggy1968]

advice - don't do it!
Can you use your own install for assessment - yes
it costs xxxxloads!

 

[gonefishing]

Just been reading this forum and found this
"I did fit my fire, then I had a qualified person come in and do the pipe work to it so I knew it was safe".
Just let us know your Gas safe "qualified person" number and we'll report him for contravening the gas regs. It's not allowed for a reason and it's the same as electrical work. Many people don't understand the problems that they can introduce by even doing "small electrical work" All electrical work has to be certificated for a reason and if you are an engineer you would understand the reasons why... Many people have tried to help here and all I can advise is that they shouldn't give advice to unqualified people. Many fatalities are caused by unqualified people, be sensible and get quotes from professional installers.

Read more: http://www.electriciansforums.net/p...nergy-forum/69634-newbie-3.html#ixzz2MHa2LwtI

 

[Steve_rutland]

So you're telling me i can't drill 2 holes in the wall, fit 2 rawl plugs and 2 screws and hang a fire? Ridiculous!

 

[gonefishing]

Why would you ever think that you are qualified to hang a fire? are you Gas Safe registered? are you at least Part P qualified?
I guess I know the answer from your attitude. People have been trying to help you here, their intentions are good, your intentions seem rather dangerous.

 

[Steve_rutland]

Hmmmph! I give up.

 

[gonefishing]

Thanks moggy1968 I've heard many horror stories but little concrete stuff, you need this and this and I keep getting offers NICEIC etc. for training and I'm wondering if it's worth the cost.

 

[Vegelen]

"Whatever you do, dont learn to think for yourself, don't attempt tasks to gain skills, always be reliant on professional tradesman".
"Dont get a job if it doesnt pay enough, go on benefits, get pregnant, apply for local housing etc ".
I hate "dumbing downers".
They are lazy, unprogressive thinkers who seek to enslave us all, inpreference to create.
Professional tradesman aren't born, they are made and where do they come from?
They come from people that educate themselves from a multitude of schools, people and sources.
People that try to complete tasks and gain knowledge / experience along the way.
In preference to those "dumbing downers" who create rules, tell people how to behave, who have little concept of how to do anything.
The more society is dumbed down the less skills and common sense everyone will have.
Professional tradesman evolve from children whom attempt to try things, to learn, to develop their lives for a better future.
If we teach our kids to never try to do anything the professional tradesman pool will shrink to everyones detriment.

 

[Worcester]

Search this forum for becoming MCS Certified, there is lost of information out there, it's not quite as expensive as it was, it will likely still cost you 5 figures (>£10k) when you take ALL the costs into account.

 

[moggy1968]

Just been reading this forum and found this
"I did fit my fire, then I had a qualified person come in and do the pipe work to it so I knew it was safe".
Just let us know your Gas safe "qualified person" number and we'll report him for contravening the gas regs. It's not allowed for a reason and it's the same as electrical work. Many people don't understand the problems that they can introduce by even doing "small electrical work" All electrical work has to be certificated for a reason and if you are an engineer you would understand the reasons why... Many people have tried to help here and all I can advise is that they shouldn't give advice to unqualified people. Many fatalities are caused by unqualified people, be sensible and get quotes from professional installers.

Read more: http://www.electriciansforums.net/p...nergy-forum/69634-newbie-3.html#ixzz2MHa2LwtI

not with the changes to part P coming in soon. A totally backward step IMHO!

 

[AndyOz]

Why would you ever think that you are qualified to hang a fire? are you Gas Safe registered? are you at least Part P qualified?
I guess I know the answer from your attitude. People have been trying to help you here, their intentions are good, your intentions seem rather dangerous.

Gonefishing I think you should re-read all posts. This is someone who on a limited budget wants to improve the environment for us all. By just reading his posts it is obvious he is competent to carry out the part of the job he is doing. The remainder he is either taking advice or getting it certified.
You on the other hand appear to have little or no knowledge of the requirements of part P.

 

[Steve_rutland]

Little update, the front aspect brackets and bars are on. Most of the rear brackets are also on, just waiting for the chimney to come down this weekend to finish up and then it'll be time for the panels

 

[gonefishing]

Thanks for your comments, It's ok for you then if he gets it all wrong and isn't qualified to do the work and ends up killing someone. There are many here who have paid hard earned money to do the work properly. If you had any idea of the costs for becoming an installer you wouldn't even comment something so ridiculous. The posts show he is not compotent at all as he is asking! and I'm sure my knowledge of "Part P2 ourstripes yours easily.

 

[Worcester]

Gonefishing - go fishing :59:
I've just read all your (19) posts and haven't found one that doesn't find fault with the topic being considered, additionally you have yet to post something that would actually be helpful to any of the threads...

 

[Steve_rutland]

Chimney has gone. Flued ridge tile in its place. Also got the rest if the brackets on the rear aspect. If the rain holds off tomorrow, I'll be getting the rest of the bars on and then the scaffolding can be moved ready for the panels to go on

 

[Steve_rutland]

System is all in! Just need to buy some padlocks and put the labels on then i'm ready for inspection :smiley2:

 

[AndyOz]

Great news Steve. Here is to 25 years plus of green generation.

 

[Earthstore]

System is all in! Just need to buy some padlocks and put the labels on then i'm ready for inspection :smiley2:

Well done, who is inspecting it?
Also your AC switches need to be lockable in the off position, but it is not a requirement to own the padlocks.

 

[Steve_rutland]

I've got a local installer who's been working with me through the install in to do it. Have grabbed a couple of locks anyway, just so everything is there.

 

[puddy]

I didn't have the cash to do mine only choice for me was to us homesun to do it for free or get in to debt and I am not doing that over solar

 

[Steve_rutland]

Least you'll be making a saving on your electric bill so you're still winning

 

[puddy]

And both of us at home all day to use that free power! I bought a solor-log 200 wifi (datalogger) and set it up using SolarAnalyzer Pro it come in android and windows. I use it on my nexus 7 tablet and can see real time power stats.

 

[Steve_rutland]

I've been looking at data loggers, will look that one you've mentioned up.

 

[bigbaddave]

how do

 

[SolarRoofSols]

@puddy, are you on commission for each time you mention homesun in a post?

 

[Steve_rutland]

Hi Bigbaddave

 

[Steve_rutland]

Anyone know how to alter the tariff on PvOutput.org?
Mine will be 13.99p but it seems to be defaulted to 45p.

 

[Vegelen]

Go to your Pvoutput solar pv systems 'Daily Output' page.
Click on Statistics > Edit Tarifs.

 

[Steve_rutland]

Hmmmm, still can't find anything to change.

 

[Steve_rutland]

Interesting to see that the East & West systems are outputting almost the same kwh. Will have to check sometime my exact orientation.

 

[puddy]

@puddy, are you on commission for each time you mention homesun in a post?

No. Do I have to ask you what I post first?

 

[SolarRoofSols]

Indeed not, just interested.

 

[Steve_rutland]

Wow! 34.5kwh!
Well pleased with that

 

[Steve_rutland]

Quick update, just over 3 months on and have produced 3385kwh. The West orientation seem to be marginally better than the East at the moment, but there's not much in it.

 

[Steve_rutland]

Another quick update....have now got an Immersun heating a separate cylinder to supply our hot water as our boiler can't accept preheated water. Water is heated to 80°c, is pumped through a heat exchanger to heat the incoming mains and the resulting hot water passes through a blending valve to give us hot water at the taps. 2 solenoid valves controlled by a top of tank stat controls which source the hot water comes from. In 5 days, the Immersun has put 50kw into the water

 

[Worcester]

Another quick update....have now got an Immersun heating a separate cylinder to supply our hot water as our boiler can't accept preheated water. Water is heated to 80°c, is pumped through a heat exchanger to heat the incoming mains and the resulting hot water passes through a blending valve to give us hot water at the taps. 2 solenoid valves controlled by a top of tank stat controls which source the hot water comes from. In 5 days, the Immersun has put 50kw into the water

Hi Steve ,

Good to hear that the systems performing well.

What's the difference between preheating the water and the HEX? Is the HEX in advance of the boiler or is it after? Do you 'assume' that the primary source is the preheat tank if so why bother with the hex and not just blend the output from that tank? - Care to post a schematic of the plumbing and controls, (confused) thanks.

Thanks

 

[Steve_rutland]

Am using the cylinder as a heat store only and using the HEX to give me mains pressure hot water. It's a vented cylinder. The boiler will alarm if you try and feed it with preheated water. Will try and draw up a schematic when I get in from work. Am looking at a speed controller for the pump now rather than the blending valve to see how efficient I can get it. That said, the return back to the tank is cold so it's probably not worth it....but I do like to twiddle

 

[Steve_rutland]

Righty, hope this comes out ok.
The tank top stat controls S1 & S2. If the tank is above the stat value ( 48c ) then S1 opens and heats the HEX, if below...S2 open and the boilers fires. Should point out there is a flow switch where DHW is on the drawing which is a live feed to the stat...then DHW. Both valves are normally closed. Using this system due to having a combi condensing boiler which wont accept preheated water but still wanting mains pressure hot water without the need to get a specialist in to fit a pressurised tank. Works a treat!! ;-)

 

[Worcester]

OK, I see what you've done, now let me put my thinking cap on.

I reckon we might be able to use a solar controller with it's variable Δt values and multiple pt1000 temperature sensors to give you what you need.

What you call a blending valve I presume is a Thermostatic Mixing Valve as normally installed on the the outlet of DHW cylinders or on the inlet to bath taps etc.

Couple of points concerning the water regs:
I am not sure also that the 2 port valves you have used are suitable / legal for potable water - I presume you used 'normal' 2 port central heating valves?
Also from the regs point of view it looks like you missing a check valve as well.

More normal practice would have been to convert your combi to a system boiler and use an unvented cylinder - then as you realised you need to be G3 certified to install / play with / configure those as otherwise they are literally bombs if not installed correctly.