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Hi,

Just thought id share my work with you, I did this board change this morning, I was contemplating extending the circuits, but managed to get it all to fit quite well, quite neat considering.

Had to put new bonding in and tails and main earth which was a pain dragging it down through the cavity. I had to pull the main fuse in the end despite having WPD out last week to fit the isolator, I then realized today I couldn't get the earth in without removing the fuse!

Started at 7:45am and finished a 1pm, fully tested, inspected and all paperwork done.

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Yeah I know, some is better than none. To be honest it needs splitting down, it's a five bed house, it's pretty big too and all on one big ring, think it was 1.3 ohms for r1 on the ring.
 
only way out would have been to split the rfc into 2 radials ( each on a 20A MCB, of course ). not advised if there's any heavy loads.
 
Hi,

Just thought id share my work with you, I did this board change this morning, I was contemplating extending the circuits, but managed to get it all to fit quite well, quite neat considering.

Had to put new bonding in and tails and main earth which was a pain dragging it down through the cavity. I had to pull the main fuse in the end despite having WPD out last week to fit the isolator, I then realized today I couldn't get the earth in without removing the fuse!

Started at 7:45am and finished a 1pm, fully tested, inspected and all paperwork done.

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its OK but listen sunshine...

stop using MK boards....their dogshyte...
 
It probably wouldn't be too bigs job to split, but that's a job for another day if he wants it.

I quite like the MK boards, I tend to stick with them as have quite a few spars in the van, maybe Fridays board I'll try hager.
 
BG or schneider for me. might try a curve from denmans, loads of room above MCBs.
 
If there's only 1 socket circuit the lights should go on the other rcd. Jmo.

Ive switched to hi integrity boards or RCBO boards now as better more flexible solutions for now and the future!
 
I wouldn't let one of them customers, that sit on your shoulder watching you do your job, take any photos.

Decent job..... looked pretty decent originally.
 
for what you pay the BG boards are to beat so far....

nice busbar in them as well.....the enclosure is more solid as well......just a better board
Iv heard of some saying they`v had probs with the RCDs.....i never have...and i`v fitted quite a few of em...
 
It always comes down to price though and until RCBOs come down I don't think I can sell hi integrity boards at a price that people really want to pay.

I have installed a couple recently leaving the non protected as the spares! The most recent one I left the garage db circuit on an mcb only so the garage/garden circuits wouldn't affect the house
 
Surface run. Good ir. R1 + R2 as expected. Zs the same
OK but the point i was really trying to make Murdoch is that you have implied that there are dodgy finals coming off DB2...so you havn`t given it additional protection....which leads me to ask:

any additional/fault protection by means of RCD in the shed?
 
So Glenn, would you tell the customer you can’t connect power to their garage DB before or after you’ve started the job?

Before, you loose the job.
After, the customer is liable to shove your regs book where it will need surgically removing.
 
So Glenn, would you tell the customer you can’t connect power to their garage DB before or after you’ve started the job?

Before, you loose the job.
After, the customer is liable to shove your regs book where it will need surgically removing.
well i wont leave myself open to any possible `examination` by some `authority` someware...

but i will reduce potentials to a minimum...wherever i can...
 
So Glenn, would you tell the customer you can’t connect power to their garage DB before or after you’ve started the job?

Before, you loose the job.
After, the customer is liable to shove your regs book where it will need surgically removing.

Oh, just shove it on an rcbo, that'll show him he has a problem, at least.
 
One comment, ...why not use a bit of blue heat shrink on those neutral connection ferrules, and also maybe cut the length down a little too. Sorry i just have a pet hate of seeing bare conductors within CU/DBs etc....
 
You can get yourself a nice 10W schneider enclosure with 6 SPSN single module RCBO's with all appropriate bussbars and blanks for about £120, cheaper than doing it with many brands of SP RCBO and it gives you proper segregation of circuits.
 
As you may have gathered I don't fit RCD split boards so don't have the flying neutral leads to contend with.
But in the days of the 16 the edition when the standard split board was the norm I never saw a problem with it, the cable is connected to a bare brass bar which is fully exposed so what does a 1/4" of ferrule matter?

(And apparently nobody ever takes the lid off without phoning the DNO to come and remove the bullet for them anyway)
 
Well done for labelling bonds and earth etc mate. Makes next sparks life a lil easier. Felt the labelling of the cooker cct cable before you stripped the 3036 out wasn't needed as it looks to be the only 4/6mm in there! Never used MK boards as I don't like the stickers - look too cluttered. I like BG, decent price high integrity boards, standard dual boards usually go for Hager.
 
As you may have gathered I don't fit RCD split boards so don't have the flying neutral leads to contend with.
But in the days of the 16 the edition when the standard split board was the norm I never saw a problem with it, the cable is connected to a bare brass bar which is fully exposed so what does a 1/4" of ferrule matter?

(And apparently nobody ever takes the lid off without phoning the DNO to come and remove the bullet for them anyway)


As i said you can do whatever, apart from anything else, to me it just doesn't look right!! I think you'll find it's more like 1/2'' or so rather than 1/4'', which is why i suggested cutting the length down a bit as well!! lol!!
 
Well hats off to UKsparks who had the courage to post up photos here, the job looks okay and nothing looks dangerous to me so all in all it is fine, a few picky points could be made but I aint going to make them, as mentioned fairplay to him, for posting, just to finish MK boards are terrible IMO, I prefer BG, Lewden or Curves for domestic use, MEM or Merlin Gerin for commercial use.
 
Yep,fair play to him for basically voluntarily entering a nation wide wang length competition...we can all be picky...i thought why are there redundant breakers left in there?...they ONLY confuse the customer and can cause arguments after the cooker blows christmas dinner,then i remembered,i do it too... good job fella :indian_brave:
 
As i said you can do whatever, apart from anything else, to me it just doesn't look right!! I think you'll find it's more like 1/2'' or so rather than 1/4'', which is why i suggested cutting the length down a bit as well!! lol!!

Well you see it all depends whether you are working in male inches or female inches ;)
 

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