Tightening locknuts with hammer and screwdriver-dog rough or not?

[briwire]

I had a job recently where myself and an apprentice had to gland and terminate a 50mm SWA cable in a panel. I put the locknut in a vice and filed V shaped notches in the 6 leading edges. The apprentice was curious as to what I was doing. As we installed it, I got my trusty old screwdriver out and hammered the locknut tight as my assistant held the gland with his stillies. On completion, he said that it was dog rough, but so difficult to tighten with gland nut pliers. I would be interested to now what others think.

 

[westward10]

Whilst this may be considered an "old skool" (forgive me for quoting that) method it is hardly showing your apprentice professional methods.

 

[Skys]

Worked with lots of different electricians over the years and most have used this technique at some point me included. You after do what is required sometimes to get the job done and the gland tight. The proper technique is not always available.

 

[davesparks]

Rough as hell in my opinion, I've never found it necessary to hammer a nut tight. Sometimes when undoing a nut or lock ring a few taps are necessary to break it free, but not suitable for tightening.

If you can't tighten it properly with the tools you have then maybe it's time to invest in better tools.

 

[Dustydazzler]

A hammer is for hammering nails and a screwdriver is for screwing screws.
Neither should be needed to do up a locking ring nut, that is what a spanner or grips are for...

 

[brianmoooore]

a screwdriver is for screwing screws.

Plus about a dozen other things.

 

[nicebutdim]

Plus about a dozen other things.

The multi tool before multi tools were invented.

 

[pc1966]

Gland nuts are a pain as they are rarely a "standard" spanner size anyway, as well as being larger than most folks spanner sets (unless they work on trains, tractors, etc).

So you almost certainly need either one of the very wide jaw adjustable spanners (often sold for plumbing work) or a slip-joint style of pipe wrench to get a proper grip.

This sort of idea:

Superwide Jaws Adjustable Wrench

Multiple uses in plumbing and heating, particularly useful on plastic waste fittings. Jaw capacity 68mm, jaw depth 55mm.

www.toolstation.com

 

[littlespark]

Gland locknuts tend to be thinner than a regular nut for getting a standard pair of adjustables on them. But you have to persevere.

Tightening with a screwdriver is going to make removal in the future damn near impossible…. Even using the same method!

 

[Marvo]

We had a similar thread not so long ago Spanner Or Grips what do you use ? - https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/spanner-or-grips-what-do-you-use.208472/#post-1832641

 

[SparkySy]

The biggest problem I find is the L shaped lip on the edge of enclosure to give them strength. This means getting square on to a wafer thin locknut is virtually impossible unless using a cranked spanner or socket if the cable isn't already in the gland. I prefer a spanner or adjustable spanner if possible and slip joint pliers or grips if a spanner isn't working.
I have some Teng adjustable spanners that have slim jaws that are slightly angled that are perfect for locknuts.
Also had some luck with serrated washers under the locknut and tighten from below with a finger on the locknut as you start!

Yes I am guilty of using a cold chisel and small hammer or linesman pliers to tighten up locknuts in the past!
Would I do it now, mmm probably in a pinch yeah, sometimes you just have to work with what you have!
If it's a crowded DB with just enough room in the gland plate for one more, but not enough room to swing a spanner what you going to do?!

 

[davesparks]

Earthing nuts have teeth which grip the panel and allow you to tighten the gland into them without needing to get tools onto the nut.

Or if you do need to spid the nut onto the gland you can flip the earthing nut over so the smooth side is against the enclosure and are also much thicker than a locknut so much easier to get a grip of.

 

[rewireIT]

a screwdriver is for chiselling out back boxes

Fixed it for you

 

[Dustydazzler]

Fixed it for you

I have a couple old cheapo beater screwdrivers for prying and chiseling etc

But i never use my decent insulated drivers for anything other than driving a screw

 

[Moley]

I'm guilty of using a hammer and screwdriver. When you are working on a gland plate with 24+ glands in 4 rows of 6 and you need to remove one from one of the inner rows there's just no chance of getting in with anything else :-(

 

[Mike Johnson]

I have a set of ring spanners with slots cut into them to allow fitting over cables for just the sort of problems above.

 

[nicebutdim]

I have a set of ring spanners with slots cut into them to allow fitting over cables for just the sort of problems above.

You still need to room to turn those spanners a small distance.

 

[Mike Johnson]

You still need to room to turn those spanners a small distance.

That's why I use a ring spanner they are capable of multiple position fitting onto the nut and turning a small distance serration by serration unlike an open ended spanner, or use a Wera Joker combination ratchet spanner, 30deg turn should be capable enough.

 

[Moley]

You should try working on a marshalling kiosk on a large transformer. On some of them there's no wa to get a spanner of any kind in. The designers had no thoughts on maintenance :-(

 

[Dustydazzler]

I wonder if glands should be held in place with a grub scew system and as long as the installer makes sure the screw is facing towards you it would be a 10 second job to release the screw and pop off the gland ?