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Discuss Treadmill problems again... in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Edtwozeronine

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I first had issues about 6 months ago with my second hand treadmill tripping the ring part of the way into a session, since then I've sent off my controller board to treadmill doctor co uk. He repaired the board and sent it back after approximately a month.

Since then I've had the a dedicated circuit installed with a 16a RCBO so that if tripping occurs with the treadmill again, it will only effect a dedicated socket and not the ring main as well.

Unfortunately, a month into using the treadmill it's tripping the circuit after about 30 minutes of use. In college I learned of type C and type D RCDs and RCBOs that have different tripping dynamics to usual household type B breakers. Do you think one of these could prevent the tripping problem or is it likely to be something else?

Seems this is fairly wide spread problem having searched the interwebs...
 
Do you have any instructions?
They may well have details about the type of supply required.
My suspicion is that it has developed a fault.
 
Surely must be a fault. I can't believe a treadmill trips either on earth leakage or overcurrent on a 16A OCPD. As above, what do the manufacturer's instructions say. Is it supplied with a standard 13A plug?

Maybe worth you emailing the manufacturer as well.
 
My guess is it requires a C curve protective device. You have had an electrician come and install a new dedicated circuit for this equipment and I take it that you explained why you needed it so all factors could be taken into account.
 
all well and good talking about breakers, but what about the poor hamsters when the treadmill not work?
 
If it is for domestic use it should be designed to work on at most a B16 MCB or 13A BS1363 fuse and a 30mA RCD. If it does not, it is likely to be faulty or is of an unapproved design. But yes, is it tripping on overload or leakage?
 
It is supplied with a 13A plug, so I'd assume it's meant behave like any other household device - plug and play. It's a Roger Black Gold treadmill, i could only find a PDF of the Gold Plus version which is much newer and has MP3 playing abilities.

I chose to have the RCBO circuit installed and since 13 amp breakers aren't a thing, 16A seemed plenty. Also, i figured if it trips at least the house doesn't blackout.

Based on the time thing, eg the longer the treadmill is used under load - aka me:fearscream: plodding along on it. The more likely it is to trip. Although I haven't just left it running minus the load yet because that's not typically something one would do.

I'll pop off and try it though, see if that proves anything...
 
I vaguely remember industrial fridges tripping on RCDs? It was part of one of the year 3 modules (outfitting a hotel) and they were on a 16A MCB instead - correct me if I'm wrong but they had some sort of issue causing earth leakage i think.
 
Does it have a Euro lead like in diagram , is earth continuity measurable to anything. (akin to PAT testing it Class 1)
a) Swap out euro cable if it has one (suitably fused)
b) something weird like static build-up on a dry day !
Has a note about operating it on a mat !
 
Does it have a Euro lead like in diagram , is earth continuity measurable to anything. (akin to PAT testing it Class 1)
a) Swap out euro cable if it has one (suitably fused)
b) something weird like static build-up on a dry day !
Has a note about operating it on a mat !

No idea why you think it has anything other than a standard UK fused plug, i haven't built this thing myself you know; it's wired in standard UK colours.

Interesting that it says to run it on a mat though? What sort of mat cos it's currently on carpet tiles, but it is mounted on rubber feet.
 
The problem could be as simple as worn carbon brushes plus build up of carbon deposits.
Replace brushes and clean up commutator,etc.

It's a Leeson direct current permanent magnet motor, rated at 180 volts, 6.5 amps, 3800 RPM, 1.25 HP, continuous duty, encl: open, INS:F, AMB: 40°C

Roger Black Gold Medal Treadmill that was originally supplyed by Argos but the email address on it for support is defunct.

Found a sticker saying November 01 on it, so i suppose 2001 manufacturer date...

I can't see the brushes on it, seems like a closed unit that runs a belt driven mechanism.

If it's new motor time it's going to be fun getting it out.:eek:
 
I wonder if the treadmill is creating supply current disturbances which trip the RCBO because the motor - roller drive belt or the roller-moving conveyor is/are occasionally slipping with respect to each other creating juddering accelerations/decelerations of the motor. You might then examine the state of these components for signs of slipping, any wear and tear and make adjustments in their tension.
 
You should be able to see a pair of black discs, 1 on each side of the motor.. Behind the discs will be where the brushes are hiding..

Underneath a circular plastic disc removed with a flathead screwdriver I've popped out the brush from the top of the motor. Looks like a reasonable amount of meat on it to me, what do you guys think?
1560865984870-654625664.jpg
 
Underneath a circular plastic disc removed with a flathead screwdriver I've popped out the brush from the top of the motor. Looks like a reasonable amount of meat on it to me, what do you guys think?View attachment 50069
i'd say that was 1/2 worn down. replace with new. take sharp edges off new ones with a fine file .
 
No idea why you think it has anything other than a standard UK fused plug,...........
The euro plug (actually a socket) would be the appliance end.
Much like a PC desktop ,making the lead replaceable if damaged.
If present it would be a place to have a poor connection,but yours is probably an earlier model with integral cable.
(Do check for damage where it enters grommet) .. The
kind of checks done by PAT testing if done thoroughly !
(carpet tiles -totally adequate)
 
The euro plug (actually a socket) would be the appliance end.
Much like a PC desktop ,making the lead replaceable if damaged.
If present it would be a place to have a poor connection,but yours is probably an earlier model with integral cable.
(Do check for damage where it enters grommet) .. The
kind of checks done by PAT testing if done thoroughly !
(carpet tiles -totally adequate)

O I C, Like a kettle lead (that's what I call them) for a computers and computer peripherals. Yeah, mine is integral and there doesn't seem to be any obvious signs of damage to it.
 
i'd say that was 1/2 worn down. replace with new. take sharp edges off new ones with a fine file .

Is it the sort of thing you'll find on evil-bay??? A bit of dust came out with both of them and where they've been in contact with the motor they seem to to be smooth and rounded, no roughness. Had to turn the treadmill on it's side and remove the bottom cover to get at the other one.
 
problem with going out for a run is that when you've had enough you still got to get back home. with a treadmill, all you have to do is fall off into the nearest armchair and get 'er indoors to fetch a brew or a beer.
 
problem with going out for a run is that when you've had enough you still got to get back home. with a treadmill, all you have to do is fall off into the nearest armchair and get 'er indoors to fetch a brew or a beer.
Even better, get a rowing machine, you're sat down and it doesn't knacker you're knees.
 
When was the last time you lubricated the treadmill belt?


And here is a pictorial guide to the state of the commutator and brushes which might be useful to you in assessing the state of motor.


A couple of days ago actually, the treadmill dr guy sent a bottle of slipcoat lubricant and a syringe to apply it with, this is it's second treatment after the 1st 2 months ago. It was part of the board replacement deal.

Been considering buying an amp-meter clamp tester to see if the power spikes at any point during use, although my understanding is that you will need to put it around just 1 conductor at a time. Which means carefully removing the outer sheath unless there is another way?

So far all I have is a multimeter from lidl and checked continuity between plug pins and where the AC supply enters the controller board, that and 230v between line and neutral, which doesn't need to be tested really as it's clearly getting all the power it needs.
 
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Could you describe the circumstances when it 'never' trips and when it does trip the RCBO?

eg: Slow speed plod over a short time - no trip; high speed over a long period trips. Slow speed over a long time .... Medium speed over a short time/long time...

Could you buy a 3Amp and 5Amp fuse and put it in the plug and see what happens?

 
I'm a slow plodder doing long stretches, well if an hour is long. I find it helps my back to loosen up, I've had a bad back forever but a treadmill session helps to stop seizing up.

I have access to 3a and 5a fuses in the electrical box, it'll be interesting to try out whatever your plan is with them, my thoughts are the treadmill won't start or will go very slowly. I'm willing to give it a try though!
 
How much do you weigh?

Swap the 13A fuse in the plug for a 5A and run it for an hour. Then use the machine as you would normally for an hour run on at least 5 occasions.

Then repeat the above with a 3A fuse in the plug.
 
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Edtwozeronine: We are using the fusing characteristics of the 3A and 5A to provide information on the average current being drawn by the treadmill over a one hour period, viz:

Current In – The maximum value of current that the fuse link will carry continuously without deterioration under specified conditions.

Conventional Time – The time specified for which the fuse shall carry non-fusing current or operate within for fusing current. Conventional times are: 1 hour for ratings of 63A and below 2 hour for ratings above 63A and up to 160A 3 hours for ratings above 160A and up to 400A 4 hours for ratings above 40A

Conventional Fusing Current If – The value of current which causes operation of the fuse link within the ‘conventional time’ (usually 1.6 x In); previously known as “minimum fusing current”. Conventional Non-fusing Current (Inf) – The value of current which the fuse will carry for the conventional time without operating (usually 1.25 x In).

So, for the 13A fuse, 1.25 x 13 = 16.25A and 1.6 x 13 = 20.8A.
For 5A - 6.25A/8A
For 3A - 3.75A/4.8A

The thermal functionality of an MCB/RCBO is designed to trip after one hour when the average current through it is 1.45 x I, so for 16A mcb, 1.45 x 16 = 23.2A

See:

www.beama.org.uk/asset/A3738A16-B693-4354-9BA38AB49204773F/

and

 
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So far just tested the treadmill with load (AKA me!) on a 3a fuse, it pinged off at the 24 minute mark at the RCBO in the garage. I'm pretty cream crackered after todays garden werk, so I'll try the 5a fuse tomorrow.

Beep tested the 3a fuse at 0.06 ohms, the saga continues!
 
I noted that the motor turns easily and all rollers, etcetera are moving freely and the belt has been lubricated.

Have you changed the brushes yet?

My hypothesis is that the motor's insulation resistance is decreasing as it warms up, most markedly when the treadmill is on load (and a significant load at that :)).

As a result, the earth leakage current of the motor is increasing with time(temperature) and of course is added to the normal earth leakage of the EMI filter. I guess the motor controller is a PWM type since motor is a PM one.

It is observed that the RCBO does not trip when the treadmill is run unloaded - thus much decreased work by the motor, less Ohmic heating heat, less temperature rise, less motor earth leakage....total earth leakage does not then cause the the RCBO to trip.

When run hot or hotter than designed, a motor's insulation resistance can be expected to reduce over time.

By the by, there may be a secondary effect of high temperature causing the demagnetisation over its lifetime of the motor's permanent magnets - the result would be that a higher armature current would be required to create the same torque...thus more Ohmic heating.....

I think you are at the stage of asking a motor specialist to test out the motor.

 
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