Discuss 100a Isolation Switch Cost in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Deleted member 112675

Hello Everyone

Despite buying electricians gloves, other ppe, 25mm tails and the switch itself I'd still rather it be done by someone a/ qualified and b/ has done it many times before. Only worse case would I consider c/ ....

Anyway, I guess there are some variables so maybe hard to get an approximate price but I'd have thought on my board surely it would be less than an hour's work to pull the main fuse and fit an isolator after the meter? Assuming there was no issue with the DNO (sse) which I think there wouldn't be for a NICEIC etc electrician, and assuming the existing tail lengths are plenty long enough out of the meter, how much would I be looking at? £200 ?

Also, since the work might involve taking the tails out of the existing CU and routing them to the new isolator, could the electrician we hired be obliged to shut down everything if he thought the CU was unsafe? That is actually my biggest fear with hiring anyone rather than doing myself.
 
I think you need to readdress your biggest fear. If your installation were to warrant immediate isolation by a professional electrician, he/she may be saving you and your family’s lives. If you DIY you may learn the hard way. Have a word with your home insurer in the morning if in any doubt.
 
I think he wants to an isolator after the meter but not sure he can do it himself i think ‍♂
In fairness and mindful of not wanting to scare off a new member, despite his demonstrating intent to DIY by buying a load of stuff & PPE, credit to him for thinking better of attempting the work and coming to the forum for advice.
 
I was hoping to get an approx cost. I was assuming the work would be something like:

remove load
cut fuse carrier seals and remove carrier
move tails from CU into new 100a dp switch
fit new tails from output of switch into CU

As far as I know the existing installation is not dangerous but it is old. Most qualified electricians I'm sure are honest but there are probably plenty who are not.
 
Then the SSE are wrong as we cannot legally pull main fuses. Only the DNO’s and power supplier companies can do that.

This was their reply just now. I have to say wrongly or rightly I'm more inclined to believe what they tell me.

Hi *****, thanks for getting in touch. We are the Distribution Network Operator and own the power lines outside as well as the cut out fuse at the property. Our equipment is all located before the meter and our engineers are not trained to work on the internal electrics at the property. A qualified electrician would be required to install an isolation switch, they would normally need to have NICEIC qualifications or this equivalent to ensure they are able to isolate the power at our fuse to complete this work. I hope this helps. -***
 
SSE allow registered contractors to pull fuses and reseal. An enlightened view that is not shared by other DNOs as yet.


Thanks that's interesting. So only a subset of qualified electricians that have signed up to be a registered contractor can do it ?

How much are they likely to charge me ?

My guess is they'd charge me zero because they won't do it without wanting a load of other work including at least testing the existing installation and probably upgrading the consumer unit.

If that's the case, think I'll risk my life.
 
This was their reply just now. I have to say wrongly or rightly I'm more inclined to believe what they tell me.

Hi *****, thanks for getting in touch. We are the Distribution Network Operator and own the power lines outside as well as the cut out fuse at the property. Our equipment is all located before the meter and our engineers are not trained to work on the internal electrics at the property. A qualified electrician would be required to install an isolation switch, they would normally need to have NICEIC qualifications or this equivalent to ensure they are able to isolate the power at our fuse to complete this work. I hope this helps. -***

We can install a double pole isolator and attach (tails)cables from this isolator to the fuse board( consumer unit), but we cannot touch the=tails coming out of the meter. The supply company would have to pull main incoming fuse and connect the tails from meter into the double pole isolator.
We as electricians are not legally allowed to pull the main incoming fuse.
 
SSE allow registered contractors to pull fuses and reseal. An enlightened view that is not shared by other DNOs as yet.


I take back my 2 previous posts as I didn’t know this was an option in some areas.

I have to say it’s aboutbtime this happened, unfortunately I suspect it’s not happening in most areas. It’s not available in my area in the south west.
 
This was their reply just now. I have to say wrongly or rightly I'm more inclined to believe what they tell me.
It would be wrongly. It is an offence to interfere with the Supplier's equipment.

EDIT: I have read the comments that SSE are one of the very select few DNOs who authorise this.
 
Even with the correct training, tooling and PPE you still need to be MOCOPA registered to work on sealed supplies.
 
Then the SSE are wrong we cannot legally pull main fuses. Only the DNO’s and power supplier companies can do that.

What's the reg/SI to back this as I'm sure it was removed in the latest edition

We as electricians are not legally allowed to pull the main incoming fuse.
As above, do we actually have it chapter & verse like they do with gas meters and The Gas Act?
 
Hi - as you’ve found, the provision of a service isolator between the Meter and the Consumer Unit can be a bit confused. The fuse is owned by your DNO (SSE in your case). The meter is owned by your Supplier (folks who send you the bill). The meter tails linking the meter to the consumer unit are your property and responsibility but you are not permitted to touch the meter. So if the cables out of the meter need changing (insulation damaged, current rating too low for a new load etc) then usually your electricity supplier will need to be involved.

Depending on who is your electricity supplier this can be fast and cheap, or slow and expensive. I work in an area where SSE is the DNO and I get first rate assistance from their metering guys for Customers that buy electricity from them. The other suppliers make their own arrangements and so charges and delays are variable. Just my experience.

If you’d like to post a pic of your meter and cables I may be able to be more specific :) .
 
Last edited:
What's the reg/SI to back this as I'm sure it was removed in the latest edition


As above, do we actually have it chapter & verse like they do with gas meters and The Gas Act?
It’s not in our regs as our regs don’t cover that part of the installation. It’s part of the supplier regs.

The suppliers have there own set of regs that I am not privy to and not familiar with.
 
Hello Everyone

Despite buying electricians gloves, other ppe, 25mm tails and the switch itself I'd still rather it be done by someone a/ qualified and b/ has done it many times before. Only worse case would I consider c/ ....

Anyway, I guess there are some variables so maybe hard to get an approximate price but I'd have thought on my board surely it would be less than an hour's work to pull the main fuse and fit an isolator after the meter? Assuming there was no issue with the DNO (sse) which I think there wouldn't be for a NICEIC etc electrician, and assuming the existing tail lengths are plenty long enough out of the meter, how much would I be looking at? £200 ?

Also, since the work might involve taking the tails out of the existing CU and routing them to the new isolator, could the electrician we hired be obliged to shut down everything if he thought the CU was unsafe? That is actually my biggest fear with hiring anyone rather than doing myself.

Why do you want this isolator in the first place?
Are you planning on a DIY consumer unit replacement? If so I would strongly recommend not doing this but having a qualified electrician who is registered with a part P scheme do this work for you. Otherwise you may be placing your life at risk along with the lives of everyone else in the property.
 
Hi - as you’ve found, the provision of a service isolator between the Meter and the Consumer Unit can be a bit confused. The fuse is owned by your DNO (SSE in your case). The meter is owned by your Supplier (folks who send you the bill). The meter tails linking the meter to the consumer unit are your property and responsibility but you are not permitted to touch the meter. So if the cables out of the meter need changing (insulation damaged, current rating too low for a new load etc) then usually your electricity supplier will need to be involved.

Depending on who is your electricity supplier this can be fast and cheap, or slow and expensive. I work in an area where SSE is the DNO and I get first rate assistance from their metering guys for Customers that buy electricity from them. The other suppliers make their own arrangements and so charges and delays are variable. Just my experience.

If you’d like to post a pic of your meter and cables I may be able to be more specific :) .

Thanks. Very informative. Pic attached.

My DNO is SSE but my supplier is pretty awful about everything - TogetherEnergy. The existing cables out of the meter are in good condition and the load will not be increasing. They look the same size as my 25mm tails and the ones into the meter look bigger but I could be wrong.

I might look into NPower from the advice above - thanks whoever suggested that.

I also understand why you couldn't possibly engage with a random diyer on the internet on how to perform notifiable jobs and I wasn't expecting that. I did hope to get a ballpark price for fitting the isolator or at least to have it confirmed that nobody would take on such work.

(mcb on one of the 5a, 1mm circuits was removed at the time as I was changing a lightbulb....:cool:
 

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What a palaver about fitting a isolator
Just as a comparison,if this were my job it would probably have been done in ten to twenty minutes
Maybe,make a decent offer on here with a price you are willing to pay and maybe some kind soul living local will oblige
 
What a palaver about fitting a isolator
Just as a comparison,if this were my job it would probably have been done in ten to twenty minutes
Maybe,make a decent offer on here with a price you are willing to pay and maybe some kind soul living local will oblige

If you read the DNO terms of service its normally beach of contract to touch their equipment. Its also actually illegal interfere with DNO equipment. Why put yourself in the firing line if the customer can pay £60 and have an idolator fitted before you arive?
 
If you read the DNO terms of service its normally beach of contract to touch their equipment. Its also actually illegal interfere with DNO equipment. Why put yourself in the firing line if the customer can pay £60 and have an idolator fitted before you arive?

I agreed with the £60 job when it was posted, but for me and regarding the suppliers equipment

I have fitted and will likely do so in the future scores of isolators without touching or interfering with any suppliers equipment
Its known as working live,it was once a task that did not cause consternation and anguish to those in the trade
 
I agreed with the £60 job when it was posted, but for me and regarding the suppliers equipment

I have fitted and will likely do so in the future scores of isolators without touching or interfering with any suppliers equipment
Its known as working live,it was once a task that did not cause consternation and anguish to those in the trade

You could say the same about asbestos and driving a car without a seat belt.
 
SSE have told me that any competent scheme member electrician can do it and they just need to call a number that they gave me when they arrive to site. I assume this is the implementation of the procedure someone kindly linked to up thread.

I would bite the hand off of someone who could do it for £60 with SSEs blessing and didn't start insisting on other upgrades. As I said above I'd consider anything less than £200.
 
SSE have told me that any competent scheme member electrician can do it and they just need to call a number that they gave me when they arrive to site. I assume this is the implementation of the procedure someone kindly linked to up thread.

I would bite the hand off of someone who could do it for £60 with SSEs blessing and didn't start insisting on other upgrades. As I said above I'd consider anything less than £200.

The joys of living in London, I guess that comes with it costing them half a day to get anywhere and £20 in congestion charges + parking.
 
I'm actually near Bracknell. (Admin has decided every post needs to be more than five words so here are the additionals).

Try putting it on Rated People. Domestic sparks have some strange rules where if you alter an installation you become responsible for anything downstream of where your working.

Listen to what the sparks quoting have to say because it’s probably for the safety of you/family that changes are required.
 
Try putting it on Rated People. Domestic sparks have some strange rules where if you alter an installation you become responsible for anything downstream of where your working.

Listen to what the sparks quoting have to say because it’s probably for the safety of you/family that changes are required.

I feel I should be more open. I am not a member of a relevant professional body and I'm not an electrician. I have a close friend who is but he doesn't live close so can't do the work. He does not condone what I'm doing but he reluctantly agrees to help.

I have a multifuntion tester and know which tests are required and how to conduct them. So if any work I do ends up with an installation that passes all tests specified in the wiring regulations it would be safe. I appreciate that the vast majority of DIYers would not have access to that kit nor how to use it nor would they typically have access to a good electrician friend willing to offer advise. I also believe that the vast majority of DIYers who attempted most notifiable work would probably not complete it to a satisfactory standard because there are so many "gotchas" and ways to go wrong.

My motivation with this is to have an isolator fitted that is agreed by SSE who would presumably re-seal the carrier. Once that is in place my motivation is only to fit a board that can accept RCDs. i.e. something that would make the installation a lot safer than it is currently. I am not interested in having a tick at building control but I am interested in ensuring it meets the wiring regulations. My on site guide is 19th so that will do ( I don't have the full copy so rely on my mate ).

I do hope this thread doesn't seem like "trolling". I am not wishing to annoy any professional electrician and I am certainly grateful and interested in your views. Would you fit a 100a isolator inbetween the meter and the CU and how much for?

I am frustrated however, that an electrician would apparently not be able to do this job without being responsible for every strand of cable downstream of the DNO's fuse. That is what I feared and one reason I started to accumulate the ppe required for the job. In simple terms, I'm told £60 is reasonable and I say I'm willing to pay up to £200 but apparently that isn't enough? I need get ready to pay for a full re-wire? Or perhaps I missunderstood ?
 
I feel I should be more open. I am not a member of a relevant professional body and I'm not an electrician. I have a close friend who is but he doesn't live close so can't do the work. He does not condone what I'm doing but he reluctantly agrees to help.

I have a multifuntion tester and know which tests are required and how to conduct them. So if any work I do ends up with an installation that passes all tests specified in the wiring regulations it would be safe. I appreciate that the vast majority of DIYers would not have access to that kit nor how to use it nor would they typically have access to a good electrician friend willing to offer advise. I also believe that the vast majority of DIYers who attempted most notifiable work would probably not complete it to a satisfactory standard because there are so many "gotchas" and ways to go wrong.

My motivation with this is to have an isolator fitted that is agreed by SSE who would presumably re-seal the carrier. Once that is in place my motivation is only to fit a board that can accept RCDs. i.e. something that would make the installation a lot safer than it is currently. I am not interested in having a tick at building control but I am interested in ensuring it meets the wiring regulations. My on site guide is 19th so that will do ( I don't have the full copy so rely on my mate ).

I do hope this thread doesn't seem like "trolling". I am not wishing to annoy any professional electrician and I am certainly grateful and interested in your views. Would you fit a 100a isolator inbetween the meter and the CU and how much for?

I am frustrated however, that an electrician would apparently not be able to do this job without being responsible for every strand of cable downstream of the DNO's fuse. That is what I feared and one reason I started to accumulate the ppe required for the job. In simple terms, I'm told £60 is reasonable and I say I'm willing to pay up to £200 but apparently that isn't enough? I need get ready to pay for a full re-wire? Or perhaps I missunderstood ?

Feel free to correct me here but you're looking to fit an isolator with the further intent of a fuseboard replacement? The latter is notifiable and while you may be able to fit an isolator I would strongly advise you get a spark in to do the board change and deal with building control etc.

Why not ask the spark to do it all? I'm guessing cost plays a factor but you could always be cheeky and haggle at the price if they do both jobs together?
 
I feel I should be more open. I am not a member of a relevant professional body and I'm not an electrician. I have a close friend who is but he doesn't live close so can't do the work. He does not condone what I'm doing but he reluctantly agrees to help.

I have a multifuntion tester and know which tests are required and how to conduct them. So if any work I do ends up with an installation that passes all tests specified in the wiring regulations it would be safe. I appreciate that the vast majority of DIYers would not have access to that kit nor how to use it nor would they typically have access to a good electrician friend willing to offer advise. I also believe that the vast majority of DIYers who attempted most notifiable work would probably not complete it to a satisfactory standard because there are so many "gotchas" and ways to go wrong.

My motivation with this is to have an isolator fitted that is agreed by SSE who would presumably re-seal the carrier. Once that is in place my motivation is only to fit a board that can accept RCDs. i.e. something that would make the installation a lot safer than it is currently. I am not interested in having a tick at building control but I am interested in ensuring it meets the wiring regulations. My on site guide is 19th so that will do ( I don't have the full copy so rely on my mate ).

I do hope this thread doesn't seem like "trolling". I am not wishing to annoy any professional electrician and I am certainly grateful and interested in your views. Would you fit a 100a isolator inbetween the meter and the CU and how much for?

I am frustrated however, that an electrician would apparently not be able to do this job without being responsible for every strand of cable downstream of the DNO's fuse. That is what I feared and one reason I started to accumulate the ppe required for the job. In simple terms, I'm told £60 is reasonable and I say I'm willing to pay up to £200 but apparently that isn't enough? I need get ready to pay for a full re-wire? Or perhaps I missunderstood ?

I’ve got plenty of electrical qualifications and experience but have never needed any of the domestic ones. I think a judge or insurance company would have a hard time saying I wasn’t “competent”. But I’d still pay a person on a register scheme if I needed a consumer unit change or a rewire.

Physically fitting your isolator is a doddle, I could get my nan to do it for you. What you’re paying for is the knowledge and experience of the tradesperson who comes to fit it.

First off pay someone to compete an inspection (EICR or whatever it’s called this month). Find out what if anything’s wrong with the electrics in you’re home. You could be sleeping in a house fire waiting to happen. It’ll cost you £2-300.

Your electrician will then tell you what if anything needs modifying to make your home safe.

Changing a consumer unit of fitting tje isolator is a bad plan because you as the home owner are legally responsible if anything goes wrong. If your house burns down your insurers may not pay out and if anyone is injured you may well end up in court.
 
Hi - thanks for the pic. It looks like your meter is sealed and is not of the type that gives separate access to the outgoing side, so officially this needs the Supplier to open. As others have said an isolating switch can be readily installed if the final connection to the meter is not needed to be changed.

It’s not the job of the Electrician to turn your power off. But they should always review your installation to confirm it’s suitable for the proposed change. This can mean that sometimes planned Job A can’t start till agreement is reached about fixing newly found problem B.
 
I have a multifuntion tester and know which tests are required and how to conduct them. So if any work I do ends up with an installation that passes all tests specified in the wiring regulations it would be safe.

Once that is in place my motivation is only to fit a board that can accept RCDs. i.e. something that would make the installation a lot safer than it is currently. I am not interested in having a tick at building control but I am interested in ensuring it meets the wiring regulations. My on site guide is 19th so that will do ( I don't have the full copy so rely on my mate ).


I am frustrated however, that an electrician would apparently not be able to do this job without being responsible for every strand of cable downstream of the DNO's fuse.

Passing all of the tests does not make it safe or fully compliant, it only confirms certain things.
You could have bare copper conductors clipped to joists that would pass all tests but clearly are dangerous and non compliant.
Your work needs to be designed in compliance with bs7671 and pass full first and second fix inspections as well as testing for it to be safe and compliant.

RCDs will only make the installation safer if the installation is already in good condition, it is possible for existing, undetected, faults to prevent RCDs from working. Also RCDs don't provide the primary level of protection, this needs to be ensured also.

An electrician is able to do this job without becoming responsible for the entire installation, we are only responsible for our own work. However before starting work we must ensure that certain basic safety requirements are in place, such as bonding, suitability of the supply earth, ADS etc.
We are also free to work above and beyond the regulations and accept or turn down any job we are offered as we see fit.
Just because we can do, or are allowed to do, a particular job, it doesn't mean we have to do it.
 
My motivation with this is to have an isolator fitted that is agreed by SSE who would presumably re-seal the carrier. Once that is in place my motivation is only to fit a board that can accept RCDs. i.e. something that would make the installation a lot safer than it is currently. I am not interested in having a tick at building control but I am interested in ensuring it meets the wiring regulations. My on site guide is 19th so that will do ( I don't have the full copy so rely on my mate ).

I'd have a think about not notifying any electrical works to your LBC. I retired last year, and have had 3 or 4 requests from old customers for copies of electrical certificates, required for house sales.

I moved house last year, and you are required to complete a legal document asking various questions. One of which is have you had any electrical work carried out (since 2005), and provide certificates & compliance certificates.

I will probably need to relocate my CU in time. I won't have the latest qualifications, so will probably pay some sparks to do it.
 
Well some more news on this today. My supplier (not my DNO) has as part of an Ombudsman case (mostly about other things but I added their lack of response to my request in there) agreed to fit an isolator for £79 !

That is perfectly reasonable in my view and when they finally get around to doing it I'll be very happy. Still not sure how this is going to work in practice though and have half a feeling they quoted this to the Ombudsman just to keep her happy. We'll see...

It does beg the question though as to why local electricians would need to see the installation and presumably charge to rectify any issues they saw before fitting the switch. Pics of CU and surrounds not good enough.

The supplier hasn't made this conditional - I simply need to pay the cash and they'll fit it. As I understand it they don't care if my installation was put in by a handyman in the 1920s, has bare wire exposed everywhere incl bathroom and outside, fuse box is so hot its used as a radiator and it sparks & clicks constantly. They'll fit it and don't need any more info (with which to charge me more).
 
Well some more news on this today. My supplier (not my DNO) has as part of an Ombudsman case (mostly about other things but I added their lack of response to my request in there) agreed to fit an isolator for £79 !

That is perfectly reasonable in my view and when they finally get around to doing it I'll be very happy. Still not sure how this is going to work in practice though and have half a feeling they quoted this to the Ombudsman just to keep her happy. We'll see...

It does beg the question though as to why local electricians would need to see the installation and presumably charge to rectify any issues they saw before fitting the switch. Pics of CU and surrounds not good enough.

The supplier hasn't made this conditional - I simply need to pay the cash and they'll fit it. As I understand it they don't care if my installation was put in by a handyman in the 1920s, has bare wire exposed everywhere incl bathroom and outside, fuse box is so hot its used as a radiator and it sparks & clicks constantly. They'll fit it and don't need any more info (with which to charge me more).
I’ve also carried work out at the main cut out fuses for most energy companies because I worked on a storage heater contract which involved all the energy companies at first I was told I wasn’t allowed to cut the ties and breaking the law from many companies around Britain, but when I explained the situation that without me isolating and renewing the undersized (in some occasions) detoriorating, melting tails that the property I was working at is at high risk they soon backed down, i then got into conversation with many engineers from the energy supply companies who to be quite frank havnt got a f****ing clue
 
Dno's charges for fitting an isolator vary in price, I know from experience that BG charge around £60 but I had a quote recently from OVO for £160!
There is also a company online who for £68+vat who will come out and pull the fuse and fit an isolator and reseal
 
My on site guide is 19th so that will do ( I don't have the full copy so rely on my mate ).

I'm still only working to the 18th!

I think you are over complicating the issue by bringing in the CU replacement as well.
If the DNO came to install an isolator they wouldn't give two hoots to your existing CU/installation (unless there was something really obviously dangerous), but may recommend an EICR.

Meter tails look like 16sq to me!
 
I'm still only working to the 18th!

I think you are over complicating the issue by bringing in the CU replacement as well.
If the DNO came to install an isolator they wouldn't give two hoots to your existing CU/installation (unless there was something really obviously dangerous), but may recommend an EICR.

Meter tails look like 16sq to me!

Yes I would expect that. So why then would most electricians apparently not want to do the job unless they were also in with a good chance of doing the CU too? Or more bonding or whatever else was deemed unsafe ? I suppose they don't want to do it for the same reason the suppliers and DNOs don't want to. Not much cash in it for the risk.

I suppose its completely reasonable that a fully qualified and professional electrician would not want to travel somewhere just for eighty quid or so. I just wish it was more transparent and not masked under safety issues.

Its also interesting that you're working to the 18th. The one electrician I did contact said he would only fit a metal box to house the isolator. Did that rule come in with the 19th ?

P.S. If I do eventually get the isolator fitted by the supplier and if those tails are 16 should I ask before hand about upgrading to 25 or when the guy gets to site? Should they upgrade them as part of the isolator work (i.e. at no more cost)?

P.P.S. I'd love to know the name of the company that does the isolator for £68+vat ?
 

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