Discuss Convert 110V Waffle Iron to 220V in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

Plugged in the iron with 13A fuse (it burnt out a 3A and 5A fuse). It seems to work well and the thermostat cuts of the power before the plates get too hot. The elements are thick horse-shoe shaped pieces of aluminium, so I don't think they will burn out easily. Bit more worried about the thermostat, but this can be replaced. It does seem to be drawing alot of power when it is heating (gets hot really quick, lights dim) Gonna give it a few test runs to see if it will hold out.

Thanks for the advice guys
 
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As expected, after frequent use on 220V, the waffle iron finally failed. I've isolated the failure down to a single part in the machine. I think it is a bimetal thermostat, but I'm not sure. I have posted up some pictures of the part. The first three pictures are of what I suspect is the broken part (tested it, no current running through it)
The final picture is that of what I am pretty sure is an adjustable bimetal thermostat (it can be adjusted with the setting dial).

My question is also: how do I fix this? Could I perhaps simply by-pass it and rely on the adjustable thermostat?

Thanks for your help.
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3kva site tranny 230/110v is the cheapest option. also, as the max. voltage wrt earth is 55v, safety is sorted. could waffle on for hours, but IMO< that's the easiest solution.
 
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3kva site tranny 230/110v is the cheapest option. also, as the max. voltage wrt earth is 55v, safety is sorted. could waffle on for hours, but IMO< that's the easiest solution.

Might invest in one of those, but would you have any suggestions in fixing the waffle iron?

thnx
 
I notice that on a couple of pics you can see 500W and 115V

Using R= V²/P
you get a resistance of approx 26Ω
It would have been taking about 9A when working - so not surprising that it quickly burnt out those 3 and 5A fuses.

This will be the resistance that you should have end to end on the heating element. Test that with a resistance meter to check it out. No reading at all and the element has gone. Any continuity between the L to E, or N to E and it has also gone.

The real advice, however, is to try out the Belgian Waffles that Aldi sell - 6 for 99p. They are individually wrapped and are brill with maple syrup. I had been looking for a waffle iron but gave up when i tasted them - no way could you make anything as good :D
 
The heating element's are actually fine (surprising enough). Everything has survived the high voltage and current, just, seemingly, not this part (I've tested all the circuits). The fuses are fine too (have been using 13A).
I wouldn't be wasting my time with this machine, if it weren't for the fact that it was the only one that I could obtain that can make specific kind of waffles (namely Dutch syrup waffles).
Would you have any idea what the part is that is broken?

Cheers
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The heating element's are actually fine (surprising enough). Everything has survived the high voltage and current, just, seemingly, not this part (I've tested all the circuits). The fuses are fine too (have been using 13A).
I wouldn't be wasting my time with this machine, if it weren't for the fact that it was the only one that I could obtain that can make specific kind of waffles (namely Dutch syrup waffles).
Would you have any idea what the part is that is broken?


Cheers


Can't really make out what it is doing from the pics? Mind no expert on recognising little thingmebobs! Is there anything on the other side of it? It will have been taking twice as much current as it was designed for - is there any sign of charring/burning - just guessing but it might be/have been some sort of thermal cut out? If you bypass it does it work?
 

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