Discuss Electric touch hob not coming on (plus consumer unit issue) in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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crapusername

I've recently had a new cooker point ran from the consumer unit and have had a new touch control ceramic hob installed on it but could get absolutely nothing from the hob at all, no display or anything. After looking at the consumer unit fuse board I realised the electrician who installed the cooker point had done so on a 6amp circuit breaker instead of a 32amp one.

Would that explain why the hob isn't turning on at all or should it be coming on and tripping the fuse?
 
If it has been put on a 6A the display should function but as soon as you put sufficient load on it, which the hob will do it will trip. Did he have a white stick and a sad looking dog.
 
The hobs display isn't lighting at all and it isn't tripping the circuit breaker. Have tested the cable with be of those cheap pens that you just hold near a cable and it flashes and beeps. When the 6amp circuit breaker is on it beeps, flick it off and it doesn't meaning that the MCB hasn't failed right?

The odd thing is that two identical hobs have been tried and neither will light up or anything.

Any ideas?
 
It needs a proper test meter, but may be the neutral missing somewhere.

Maybe no-one explained to the dog that a neutral was required, so he could pass the info on..
 
The hobs display isn't lighting at all and it isn't tripping the circuit breaker. Have tested the cable with be of those cheap pens that you just hold near a cable and it flashes and beeps. When the 6amp circuit breaker is on it beeps, flick it off and it doesn't meaning that the MCB hasn't failed right?

The odd thing is that two identical hobs have been tried and neither will light up or anything.

Any ideas?
Two identical hobs have been tried? why?
 
It needs a proper test meter, but may be the neutral missing somewhere.

Maybe no-one explained to the dog that a neutral was required, so he could pass the info on..

I'll pass the information on to the dog to pass on to the electrician.

1. Don't trust those "testers"

2. Employ a competent spark
Are the testers pretty pointless then? And I thought I had to be honest.

Two identical hobs have been tried? why?
Because the electrician said that regardless of it being on the wrong sized circuit breaker it should still be working but tripping out regularly and if it isn't coming on at all then the hob must be faulty so it was taken back to the shop and replaced
 
I've been to 2 call outs in the last 6 months with "reported" oven or hob failure... in Both cases there were isolation switches that the home owners were unaware of!

That is the one thing that I'm certain is in place and switched on. Well actually it has been tried in the off and the on position just in case he's wired that up wrong. When it is on the tester beeps like crazy, when it is off it goes silent. I know you said you can't trust them but I assume it does at least indicate that there is power there right?
 
How do you know it is on a 6A.

Because it was a new mini consumer unit which only has 2 circuit breakers in it, one has 6amp printed on and the other has 32amp. The tester doesn't show any power at all when the 32amp is 'on' but as soon as the 6amp breaker s flicked on it says there is power
 
You can't rely on the "volt stick", you need someone with a voltage tester to look at it. Has it ever functioned.
 
Because it was a new mini consumer unit which only has 2 circuit breakers in it, one has 6amp printed on and the other has 32amp. The tester doesn't show any power at all when the 32amp is 'on' but as soon as the 6amp breaker s flicked on it says there is power
What says it has power? Oh sorry I just read Westy's post and it mentioned "Voltstick" don't relay on that piece of carp.
 
No it hasn't, it was a brand new hob (two of them) On a new cooker cable coming from a new consumer unit.



The led on the isolation switch lights and the volt stick says so too though I understand these are very basic.
Yes but as soon as you try to use the Oven/Hob whatever the breaker trips, correct? switch the 32 amp breaker OFF and try you Oven Hob if the indicator doesn't illuminate then the circuit has been wired to the 6 Amp breaker
 
Yes but as soon as you try to use the Oven/Hob whatever the breaker trips, correct? switch the 32 amp breaker OFF and try you Oven Hob if the indicator doesn't illuminate then the circuit has been wired to the 6 Amp breaker
No, it doesn't trip the breaker. It is as if the hob is getting g no power at all as the display remains completely blank and no matter how many times the buttons (touch screen thing) are pressed there is nothing.

Switching the 32amp breaker on doesn't light the isolation point led but switching the 6amp one does so I would assume it is definitely that one which is being used?
 
You need to verify if the "mini" consumer unit is actually live, where is it supplied from.
 
No, it doesn't trip the breaker. It is as if the hob is getting g no power at all as the display remains completely blank and no matter how many times the buttons (touch screen thing) are pressed there is nothing.

Switching the 32amp breaker on doesn't light the isolation point led but switching the 6amp one does so I would assume it is definitely that one which is being used?
Not sure what you mean "it doesn't trip the breaker" what exactly is the state of the two breakers ON or OFF?
 
Are you thinking that he has wired the mini one into the old style existing one? Because that was my first thought but he assures me it is directly from the main meter outside
Was the bloke that wired the cooker an actual Electrician or a mate fro down the Pub?
 
Not sure what you mean "it doesn't trip the breaker" what exactly is the state of the two breakers ON or OFF?

6amp breaker on = led lit up on isolation point.
6amp off = led off.
32 amp on: led off
32 amp off = led off.

Attempting to press any buttons on the job itself has no effect on the hob it remains dead and it doesn't trip or switch any of the circuit breakers in either direction. It has been tried with one up and the other down, both up, both down etc and the only one that gives lights the led on the isolation point is 6amp on, 32 off but none give any results on the hob or trip and fuses
 
We all use volt sticks but they can give misleading indication. I don't suppose the isolator has a socket on it.
 
He was an actual electrician but didn't notice that the circuit breaker says 32amp on it. I noticed that afterwards
Now I'm lost, the new CU has 2 cbs and a main switch, or should have, correct so far? Westy asked how it, the CU has been fed, any joy on that info?
 
my guess is that somewhere the hob is not connected to the isolator. connection unit not wired in properly?
 
my guess is that somewhere the hob is not connected to the isolator. connection unit not wired in properly?
Yes good call Tel, but you would have thought the Electrician would have tested that everything was honkydory before he did the Foxtrot Oscar exit.
 
We all use volt sticks but they can give misleading indication. I don't suppose the isolator has a socket on it.
No it doesn't have a socket on it sadly :(

Now I'm lost, the new CU has 2 cbs and a main switch, or should have, correct so far? Westy asked how it, the CU has been fed, any joy on that info?

Yes the new one has two CBs and a main switch, a 6amp CB and a 32amp one with the 32amp one appearing to do nothing but the 6amp one turning the isolator switch's led on and off.

I've just had a close look and there appears to be a cable going from the old style fuse wire box to the new mini (ie it can have 3 circuit breakers in it) box.

Do the images below help at all?
Upload Pie - The Simple Image Sharing Tool - https://uploadpie.com/Y4oqzx

Upload Pie - The Simple Image Sharing Tool - https://uploadpie.com/IsyDze
 
No it doesn't have a socket on it sadly :(



Yes the new one has two CBs and a main switch, a 6amp CB and a 32amp one with the 32amp one appearing to do nothing but the 6amp one turning the isolator switch's led on and off.

I've just had a close look and there appears to be a cable going from the old style fuse wire box to the new mini (ie it can have 3 circuit breakers in it) box.

Do the images below help at all?
Upload Pie - The Simple Image Sharing Tool - https://uploadpie.com/Y4oqzx

Upload Pie - The Simple Image Sharing Tool - https://uploadpie.com/IsyDze
No it doesn't have a socket on it sadly :(



Yes the new one has two CBs and a main switch, a 6amp CB and a 32amp one with the 32amp one appearing to do nothing but the 6amp one turning the isolator switch's led on and off.

I've just had a close look and there appears to be a cable going from the old style fuse wire box to the new mini (ie it can have 3 circuit breakers in it) box.

Do the images below help at all?
Upload Pie - The Simple Image Sharing Tool - https://uploadpie.com/Y4oqzx

Upload Pie - The Simple Image Sharing Tool - https://uploadpie.com/IsyDze
It looks like the "Electrician" has fe your new CU which contains modern up to date CBs from an Old style CU, don't go sticking your fingers in to the old box but have you any idea what size fuse he has taken the supply to the new CU from?
 
Sorry I thought I'd answered. The hob was brand new and so was the consumer unit and new cable so I've never used any of them. The hob has never functioned since it was attempted to be installed
Yes sorry you did. You need to get the electrician back it should have been tested. When did he install that new board it looks non compliant to me.
 
Basically your electrician has used a BG 'garage' unit which Screwfix sell. Nothing wrong with them but there is clearly something wrong with the installation, you really need someone competent to check this through- in fact the bloke who did the work should have returned straight away instead of guessing the hob itself was faulty and causing you all that wasted time and effort !
 
To far for me to do a free bee then
I wouldn't have expected that at all anyway but thankyou very much for being so kind as to even consider doing something like that even though it is too far the fact you would have considered it if it was closer is much appreciated.
 
Basically your electrician has used a BG 'garage' unit which Screwfix sell. Nothing wrong with them but there is clearly something wrong with the installation, you really need someone competent to check this through- in fact the bloke who did the work should have returned straight away instead of guessing the hob itself was faulty and causing you all that wasted time and effort !
It is plastic.
 
He said he will come back later in the week I was just hoping that a simpleton like me could confirm one way or the other if the hob itself was faulty before he came back
Simple to say, a layman like yourself would find getting the information from a forum, not your fault, just make sure Mr Muppet comes and sorts your cooker out
 
He said he will come back later in the week I was just hoping that a simpleton like me could confirm one way or the other if the hob itself was faulty before he came back

I would try and get a second opinion in, this guy does not sound as if he knows his onions.
 
Does the induction hob have a controls lock?

I.E press 2 buttons together to turn it on or are you doing that?

What make / model hob is it?
 

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