Insulation LN Test Fail through cooker isolator

[Deleted member 112675]

As it says really. When testing LE or NE resistance > 300M ohms but between L and N I was getting a reading of about 0.2M ohms. Could it be the BG cooker switch that has two neon lights that is the problem?

If it is, after shoving 500V dc through them, should I replace this erstwhile brand new cooker isolator even if no other issue shows itself on the grounds that something could have broken during said test?

 

[Markyd]

why are you putting 500v through a switch with a neon..maybe reviewing your testing abilities would be a start

 

[Wilko]

Hi - the neon is wired between L and N and so will be a load during your IR test.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

And that is a typical reading for a neon indicator. It is unlikely to be damaged.

 

[telectrix]

try again with the cooker and integrated socket switches OFF>if the switch is wired correctly your tester will not see the neon.

 

[Deleted member 112675]

Just to say thanks to the mostly constructive replies. I've since had a chance to test with both switches off (cooker and socket on the switch) and sure enough all is good.

Regarding the nice comment about my testing abilities, if they were up to scratch I wouldn't need to be asking such questions. I am completely open about my lowly DIY status.

 

[ipf]

Well, you're learning...…..an IR test is a good way of checking if the neon is operational whilst carrying out a dead test.

 

[SparkyChick]

It's always worth checking switches and sockets with neon indicators in. Many of them now have easy to disconnect connections for them. All the MK ones I've seen over the last few years have crimp terminals on the end and they can be easily disconnected (they even provide two sets of terminals one of the load side and one on the supply side allowing you to flip them if by chance you get the cables back to front. I'm not sure whether BG do something similar but it's worth checking, then you can test without worrying about it.

 

[ipf]

It's always worth checking switches and sockets with neon indicators in. Many of them now have easy to disconnect connections for them. All the MK ones I've seen over the last few years have crimp terminals on the end and they can be easily disconnected (they even provide two sets of terminals one of the load side and one on the supply side allowing you to flip them if by chance you get the cables back to front. I'm not sure whether BG do something similar but it's worth checking, then you can test without worrying about it.

Why worry, just switch it off. If you need to test the outgoing cable, disconnecting it is generally easier than messing about with the neon, especially with some older ones.