Discuss Kitchen appliance sockets and safe zones - right or wrong? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
I put in sockets behind cupboards and the kitchen guy refused to put any cut outs in the backs to allow access. Waiting for the call when the w/mc has a fault and they call him back to unplug it. At least it can be isolated (Grid Switches - yuck).
Somehow managed to lose contact with him. Such a shame... not![/QUOT
Typically fitter
I personally would do it the way your electrician has stated. Isolator above, unswitched sockets/ outlet plates below.
Better design access for isolation. Part M has been taken into account.
Your way can be acceptable, but I would be strongly advising my way.
One thing I would do differently is I would have the unswitched socket /outlet plates in the cupboard next to appliances due to space issues with appliance.
Don't agree with this view, personally it looks a lot better if the socket is hidden in the back of a cupboard. It is accessible for isolation even if someone has to move a box of weetabix to get to it.These cases are a little bit about good practice, becoming a reference when it is then best to refer to how we get there. As at least two people have mentioned the key word "access". We even have 513.1 ACCESSIBILITY to help us.
I am working on a kitchen this week and next, so interested in this post. The gist of the regs is, a socket shall be arranged to facilitate its operation, inspection and maintenance. This should not be impaired by mounting it in an enclosure or a compartment.
The use of an isolator above the worktop, meets the requirement easily, anything else has to be thought about and meet 513.1. My first thought is the reg is not met if you put your isolator at the back of or behind a cupboard. Regards
Because it does not address accessibility ( part M)
In that case wouldn't it be just as well to put the switched socket in there and save an unnecessary accessory and connection.
Not a new build, so no I don't have the problem of having to comply with that, thankfully. To Paignton Pete: I understand what you mean, but I'm not fussed about part M, so bearing that in mind, could I ask you something? If I was offering you this job, you'd explained all this to me, strongly recommending your way for easier access, and I still wanted it done my preferred way, would you refuse to do it?On a new build... Doubt if the OP has this issue?
Thanks for the idea, that sounds a good compromise, I'll have to see if he'd be happy with that.Perhaps he would be happier if the drop aligned with an outlet (as in 4) but then continued down to the lower level, then 90 degree turn and run horizontal to the appliance connections (as in 2).
Did you mean diagram #2 rather than #4, or am I misunderstanding you?...best in cupboards, using diagram #4, but isolators are not necessary...
Because I've read that a double socket still has max 13A rating but these 2 appliances together could go over that, and therefore it's safer to use 2 singles. Even if it's only a theoretical problem or if there's disagreement over it, erring on the safe side seemed logical.all he's got to do is stick one d/socket in base unit. why have two.
Because I've read that a double socket still has max 13A rating but these 2 appliances together could go over that, and therefore it's safer to use 2 singles. Even if it's only a theoretical problem or if there's disagreement over it, erring on the safe side seemed logical.
At the end of he day you are the customer so I would do what you requested, yes.Wow, lots of replies - big thank you to all for your advice. Seems all pretty much agree this electrician is wrong, apart from Paignton Pete - there had to be one
To Paignton Pete: I understand what you mean, but I'm not fussed about part M, so bearing that in mind, could I ask you something? If I was offering you this job, you'd explained all this to me, strongly recommending your way for easier access, and I still wanted it done my preferred way, would you refuse to do it?
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