The one from Germany may well work it has the 250mA output however it is only a maximum of 8W whereas your original is 11W, so long as you do not need more than 8W this is OK.
The constant 24V one would not be a good choice but may work, since if you look at your existing driver the minimum voltage is 23V (max 38V) and so if the lamps were fed 24V it is unlikely the current would be too much, however there would be no control of the current and if you wanted a 9W supply then the driver would be overloaded as it is only 6W.
Now I have actually looked the 250mA ones are not common, most start at 350mA.
Lamps that require constant current should have printed on them a wattage and current rating and not give a voltage rating.
If they need constant voltage then they will have a wattage and a voltage rating normally for individual lamps this is 12V, LED strips can be 12,24,36,48 V
Generally LEDs are wired in series for constant current and in parallel for constant voltage.
Mostly assemblies of LEDs might be constant current but individual items are constant voltage. It is much easier to get a 12V driver for LEDs and make sure it can take the total wattage which is what you would normally have for LED lamps on their own.
You have the slightly more complex arrangement of a set of lamps.
However usually they would be 350mA for which there are hundred of suitable drivers out there.
For your application I am assuming this is a set of MR11 LEDs in a unit or something like that, otherwise I would expect them to be 12V items even for MR11.
MR11 is not GU10
This is a diagram of some lamp bases for comparison.
View attachment 33868