Log cabins.

[Pretty Mouth]

@timhoward , what is the outside clad with/how is it constructed/ have you got a photo? I can't visualise it from your description.

 

[timhoward]

@timhoward , what is the outside clad with/how is it constructed/ have you got a photo? I can't visualise it from your description.

Don't have a photo of the one in question, the outside isn't clad....it's pre-formed interlocking lengths. Not this one but this kind of design but larger....

Then inside there are vertical studs, insulation panels, and horizontal cladding.
Does that help?

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Don't have a photo of the one in question, the outside isn't clad....it's pre-formed interlocking lengths. Not this one but this kind of design but larger....
View attachment 92841
Then inside there are vertical studs, insulation panels, and horizontal cladding.
Does that help?

Hmmm, this is a tricky one. It would make sense for the horizontal T+G to be fixed direct to the vertical studs. Could there be a void between the stud wall and the outer leaf of stacked timber? I have seen this done before, with a breather membrane fixed to the studwork, the idea being to prevent moisture build up. But even if there is a void there, it still seems unlikely that you'd be able to run cables to where you want from there.

Sorry, I'm not being much help am I

 

[timhoward]

Sorry, I'm not being much help am I

In a way you are, as you are reassuring me I'm not missing anything obvious! If there was access to the underside then there would be more possibilities but that ship has sailed.
To be fair to the customer, he has only just bought the house and inherited this beautifully finished shell, with every surface including roof cladded inside. If you had a gas fire and candlelight it would be quite practical...!

So anyway, it comes down to surface mounted (and to my mind the most two attraction options of MICC and galv have been ruled out), leaving D-Line trunking, doing something nice with wood, or clipped direct(!). We'll see what he says. I might make a sample bit of wood up later if I can find a suitable piece.

 

[LastManOnline]

I had a feeling the insulation would be solid and unyielding.

. My preferred method for the type of log cabin you have is to remove the skirting and engineer a cable run there. Cut the socket boxes in and drill down through the insulation using a 30 cm flexible bit holder with the spade bit attached. Once wiring is in and skirting back on it's as unobtrusive as you are likely to get.Wont work for switches as the run is too long.Although I did buy 1 Mt long flexible drill bits from the states but have yet to employ them in a job like this. Anyway the quinetic switches are the way to go

 

[timhoward]

My preferred method for the type of log cabin you have is to remove the skirting and engineer a cable run there.

I can see the attraction, as it's outside zones and I doubt I can get it 50mm back I guess that will need mechanically protecting....food for thought.

 

[LastManOnline]

I can see the attraction, as it's outside zones and I doubt I can get it 50mm back I guess that will need mechanically protecting....food for thought.

That is the major headache when working behind skirting boards. It's needs strictly speaking mechanical protect. I have used trunking lid, joist caps etc and a variety of of other means. But it never feels ideal so I make a point of taking pictures of how it's all been installed and ensure the customer is comepletely OK with it. The log cabin providers could do a little more to facilitate the electrical installation. Best bit of advice I could give is to get in the building stage.A little co-operation from the builder halves the electricians work. Of course it's not always possible to do this.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

I can see the attraction, as it's outside zones and I doubt I can get it 50mm back I guess that will need mechanically protecting....food for thought.

Perhaps a roll of BS8436 cable for this job?

 

[pc1966]

Perhaps a roll of BS8436 cable for this job?

I was thinking of Flexishield even just for the extra toughness over T&E, as well as the foil protection layer for penetration. Though it is a little bulkier.

 

[timhoward]

Little update on this one...
1 - Embarrassingly I was wrong about the construction - it's in fact solid walls exactly like the photo above. I'd been told it was insulated and not questioned it. (When I drilled the hole for the supply cable I assumed I'd found a baton as it felt solid.). At least this completely knocks on the head any notion of cables in cavities.
2 - with limited time available before Christmas they asked for a temporary supply to allow more time to think.

So this has been kicked into the long grass - and I lent them a couple of my 16A site boards...

D-Line wood effect trunking is sounding like it's going to be the final answer, but I can at least stop thinking about this until New Year now!