My first post and it's about LED lighting

[hawkeyefxr]

I have a small utility room at the end of my garage, it have a fluorescent fitting for lighting controlled by an infra-red sensor. I decided to change it because the tubes and/or starters fall over at the most inconvenient namely winter time when it is dark.

I have changed the fitting to a standard bayonet type and fitted an LED light. My problem is that it starts ok but when the sensor times out it just dims and never goes out. I have tried low energy light and that works ok but looks like a candle when it starts. As we just walk into the utility for the fridge mainly it's always dim in there.
I have tried the LED in a normal wall switched room and it works fine. I have a martindale and that shows no faults though i am not sure that will pick up lighting faults.
Could there be a neutral fault ? though i cannot see why when a not light works ok.

Any help much appreciated.

 

[GMES]

I have moved your thread into the genral section, it may get moved to diy by Admin, but this should get you some response in the meantime.

 

[Leesparkykent]

what's the minimum wattage of the sensor?

one of these will probably do the trick if you want to use an LED lamp.. if your not to fussed fit a higher wattage lamp.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DNCAPLOAD.html

 

[telectrix]

you can have an incompatibilty issue with the sensor and the LED. try fitting 2 x 160k 2 watt resistors in series across the L and N.

 

[tazz]

The pir unit is electronic and not a relay type. Normally switching by Diacs wouldn`t be a problem when switching filament lamps. Leds can glow off the diacs leakage. If you remove the Lout and the glowing stops this proves the point.
answer is to buy a relay switched pir sensor, or fit a small contactor, relay. You could also try increasing the load, with another light fitting.

 

[HandySparks]

If the glowing LED lamp bothers you just replace it with an ordinary GLS filament lamp. After all, in a utility room, it's not going to be use for most of the time.

 

[Barry White]

The pir unit is electronic and not a relay type. Normally switching by Diacs wouldn`t be a problem when switching filament lamps. Leds can glow off the diacs leakage. If you remove the Lout and the glowing stops this proves the point.
answer is to buy a relay switched pir sensor, or fit a small contactor, relay. You could also try increasing the load, with another light fitting.

This is where my money is you always get a bit of leakage from the ssr buy a relay output PIR and bet the problem goes away

 

[tazz]

Handysparks suggestion, will be you quickest & easiest solution

 

[hawkeyefxr]

Thanks for the quick replies, I liked the idea of the resistors but it would not work within box as it is a live in live out type, no neutral.

I pit for LED's seems best all round.

 

[amlu]

can try with a relay, coil wired into sensor output and contacts switching the lamp on and off...

 

[HandySparks]

Thanks for the quick replies, I liked the idea of the resistors but it would not work within box as it is a live in live out type, no neutral.

I pit for LED's seems best all round.

You put them across the load, not across the PIR.

No idea what the second sentence is about.

 

[D Skelton]

Use one of these:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BEPD91CFC.html

The sensor controls a robust external relay rather than an integral switch.

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Use one of these:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BEPD91CFC.html

The sensor controls a robust external relay rather than an integral switch.

Welcome back Mr DS :smile5:

 

[GMES]

Hey Damian nice to to say you mate!!

 

[tazz]

Use one of these:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BEPD91CFC.html

The sensor controls a robust external relay rather than an integral switch.

For the price, this is another good solution

 

[Dave OCD]

Do you really need the internal utility light controlled by a PIR ? You could replace it with a switch in a convenient place without too much trouble.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

I think i will go with the TLC direct item, cheers


HandySparks
I can type 200WPM but no one can understand what i have written........that includes me lol

 

[hawkeyefxr]

Do you really need the internal utility light controlled by a PIR ? You could replace it with a switch in a convenient place without too much trouble.

We had a switch years ago and we all left the light on at one time or another, going back to a wall switch will be a step back in time.

 

[Dave OCD]

We had a switch years ago and we all left the light on at one time or another, going back to a wall switch will be a step back in time.

Fair enough.

 

[hawkeyefxr]

Well after all that i found a light bulb on Amazon that has a PIR built in to it, it is a 60 watt old rating and works fine. Guess that solves all my problems