Discuss Need a lil' help..... in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hey all!
First of all I would like to apologies if im posting in the wrong section. My browser is playing hell today (it does this occasionally - you've got to love int explorer 8 lol) and I can't seem to load the "read this first or sticky" because I wanted to be sure that the topic relates to this section but I cant get the site to run properly :(

Now, I would appreciate some advice. Please bear with me peeps as I do tend to waffle but trust me I will try to give all the info I possibly can as it will save on questions later (but I do expect a few and have no problem with constructive critiscm).

Ok here goes. I went to do a job last weekend at the mrs's grandads' (family job yeah). Simple job really. Change a double switched socket for new (rocker switch broken/stuck), and replace 2 single blanking plates for single switched socket outlets. Dead easy!

Well, I went to the mains board to isolate as you do and observed a TNS with 80A main cut out supplying a wylex 10 way rewireable board. Three cables (2.5mm) have been ragged out of the board and cut short (don't know why at this point and was not overly concerned).

I did mention to the customer (mrs's grandad remember and she is also present so a tad awkward) that his board could do with an upgrade as he is still using rewireable fuses BS3036 and it isn't really ideal nor safe. Now, I removed the relevant fuses and changed the double socket no problem, but upon changing the single sockets and upon re-energising, realized that there was no feed at both of them.

Guessed it? yep, them cut wires. No point asking the old man as he didn’t even know why they were blank plated. So, I continue to tell him that "your double socket works fine and there is power there, however the two single sockets have no feed there due to the fact that the cables have been simply cut short and completely removed form the board (showing him at this point).

He pointed to a spare way and said "can you not just extend the wires then and put it in that one?" - pointing to a 15A rated Blue carrier. I was like, well, erm not really as it isn’t safe and im sure you would all agree running 2 x 13A radials of 1 x 15A fuse wire is not a good idea and lets face it the wrong fuse wire could be installed and oh, did I mention the installation has NO RCD protection? Well, that’s another thing I had to mention (by this time im really embarrassed as gf is looking at me weird and I know she is thinking "your after more money you were only here to change some plugs - she thinks they are plugs lol women :)

So, I was expecting an awkward moment as I certainly felt awkward when I replied that I wasn’t prepared to extend the cables and put them in the 15A supply, being the only spare way left. He simply replied "how much then would it cost to upgrade the board then to make it safe to allow connection of these sockets?" Well, of course my mind is racing here as I have never priced a job up and didn't really know what to do or say other than the old age favorite "leave it with me".

I had a look around just before leaving and also noticed that the main gas isn’t bonded so that is a job in itself. The run I would say is approx 20 plus metres. Now, I proposed to him to upgrade the board to a 12 way split load mains board to obviously offer RCD protection with 100A main switch. I also mentioned that the earthing must be done. Am I right that before I even contemplated changing the sockets I should have checked both gas and water were bonded? (Not sure could do with info regarding this a mate sparky said this was legit).

OK. Here are my questions :confused: (finally you ask lol):

*I am a fully qualified JIB electrician - but, I do not work for myself, I am not employed as such and am not part P registered. Therefore can I do this mains board change as a cash job (shhhhhh)?

*Am I allowed to provide an electrical installation certificate even though the above applies? (A sparky mate said he would come and test out the job but I would have to sign the paperwork)

*If I DID provide certification would it be null and void the second I put pen to paper? As again I stress that im not self employed or company based (strictly cash)

*How much do you think I should charge for the job plus materials (considering first priced job as im a price virgin lol - give me credit we've all been there and its family, well sort :)

*finally, do I need to notify building control is it (believe they sign it off and that it costs a fortune - again advice here would be much appreciated).

So sorry for the rant and the on going story. Think I’ve covered everything. Any questions or help please let me know. Peace out :)
 
I would recommend a PIR but your not qualified to do that so I would suggest you read the thread posted by Lenny on the sticky threads post, headed useful down loads you will I think find one regarding C.U. change,
Howerver unless your part P qualified you cant notify or certify it and I can. see how your mate can certify it and you sign it, may I suggest if he is part p you both do it ( read in between the lines) and he notify's and certify's
 
I would recommend a PIR but your not qualified to do that so I would suggest you read the thread posted by Lenny on the sticky threads post, headed useful down loads you will I think find one regarding C.U. change,
Howerver unless your part P qualified you cant notify or certify it and I can. see how your mate can certify it and you sign it, may I suggest if he is part p you both do it ( read in between the lines) and he notify's and certify's

Bugsy why is the op not qualified to carry out a PIR?
 
Im; assuming but I don't think Sparky holds 2931 if he had I think he would have made a few routine checks just in the normal course of habit which would have indicated the sockets with blanks were dead
 
No disrespect but as far as I am aware the 2391 is not compulsary for you to be able to test. As long as you are competent you can carry on and issue certs.

IMO think 2391 should be a MUST for any testing.
 
I would recommend a PIR but your not qualified to do that so I would suggest you read the thread posted by Lenny on the sticky threads post, headed useful down loads you will I think find one regarding C.U. change,
Howerver unless your part P qualified you cant notify or certify it and I can. see how your mate can certify it and you sign it, may I suggest if he is part p you both do it ( read in between the lines) and he notify's and certify's

Bugsy I have underlined some quoptes from your post for a reply off myself

There is no qualification for doing PIRs
Sorry to say but even the girl friend can do the PIR if she feels up to it :)

Part p is not a qualification,it is a building regulation that can be adhered to,by either self certificating or notifying building control
It has nothing to do with competence

All installed electrical work must have certification by the installer,it does not require being registered for part p to do so,many experienced well qualified sparks have nothing to do with the nonesense


Mains board changes are notifiable works and can be done by one or other of the ways stated above
You must issue an installation certificate for your work,your sparky mate can test for you and sign the testing section of a three part certificate
Your certificate would be valid and accepted by whoever wants to decide that it is valid

Charging is dependant on whatever other work is involved in order to carry out the board change and by how much you value your services and materials and cost of notification

Yes you do need to inform building control.unless you do it under the radar like many chose to do
 
Bugsy I have underlined some quoptes from your post for a reply off myself

There is no qualification for doing PIRs
Sorry to say but even the girl friend can do the PIR if she feels up to it :)

Part p is not a qualification,it is a building regulation that can be adhered to,by either self certificating or notifying building control
It has nothing to do with competence

All installed electrical work must have certification by the installer,it does not require being registered for part p to do so,many experienced well qualified sparks have nothing to do with the nonesense


Mains board changes are notifiable works and can be done by one or other of the ways stated above
You must issue an installation certificate for your work,your sparky mate can test for you and sign the testing section of a three part certificate
Your certificate would be valid and accepted by whoever wants to decide that it is valid

Charging is dependant on whatever other work is involved in order to carry out the board change and by how much you value your services and materials and cost of notification

Yes you do need to inform building control.unless you do it under the radar like many chose to do

Ok. prehaps some of the terminology ive used is incorrect however NIC wil not allow to purchase PIR unless you hold 2391 there must be a reason
anyway nough said If im wrong im wrong
 
Bugsy
Sorry,I didn't intend the post to be a critisism of your terminology.if it came over to you that way it wasn't meant to and I am sorry

The replies were more for clarifying to the original post who was unsure of part p

I agree the terminology was picked up because we understand what is infered by being part p qualified,but others sometimes get confused

You are not wrong
You are right with requiring the 2391 for niceic, also napit are the same

I also agree that 2391 should be a must for doing PIRs,but its almost worthless unless the custommer insists on a scheme report
 
Bugsy
Sorry,I didn't intend the post to be a critisism of your terminology.if it came over to you that way it wasn't meant to and I am sorry

The replies were more for clarifying to the original post who was unsure of part p

I agree the terminology was picked up because we understand what is infered by being part p qualified,but others sometimes get confused

You are not wrong
You are right with requiring the 2391 for niceic, also napit are the same

I also agree that 2391 should be a must for doing PIRs,but its almost worthless unless the custommer insists on a scheme report

Sorry to butt in, Although i agree with you guys about the 2391 being a must for all sparks to do testing, but we don't live in a ideal world and as far as the Law is concerned anyone can do a PIR as long as they are competent..lol..... there are lots of guys out there who have been testing for years but have never done the 2391 exam.........crazy world we live in.......:D
 
Sorry to butt in, Although i agree with you guys about the 2391 being a must for all sparks to do testing, but we don't live in a ideal world and as far as the Law is concerned anyone can do a PIR as long as they are competent..lol..... there are lots of guys out there who have been testing for years but have never done the 2391 exam.........crazy world we live in.......:D

Quite agree but competent is the operative word , :)
 
Just to perhaps add some clarification for the OP.. and im only rewording what others have said..
sparky05084
ANYONE can change a consumer unit...
ANYONE can do any amount of electrical work in a dwelling..

however.... (here it comes)

a DIYer, or for that matter an electrician NOT part of a self certification scheme. MUST inform local building control, PRIOR to starting (notifiable) work, and when its completed, must then pay for local building control to test and inspect the work to ensure its up to standard.. And its that last bit which usually makes it unviable for the DIYer or indeed the non part P spark.. (due to the cost)

I agree with the others (having paid for and passed) that 2391 is desireable, but sadly not widely the case.
I was amazed at how many well established sparks were at the exam when i took mine, and many of them weren't taking it for the first time..!!
 

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