Discuss Pat test on cooker in the Electrical Testing & PAT Testing Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

O

orac77

Hi,This might sound like a stupid request but how with a standard pat tester do you test a cooker when you can not plug the 6mm into the s/o of pat tester or do you just croc clips on to cable then test.Thx
 
Thx for that,is that a FAT test then, its just that i was working at a house and they are going to rent it out and asked for the cooker to be tested.
 
you can IR test ther cooker with a MFT or megger 500v tester. you also need to check continuity of cpcd tothe metalwork of the appliance.that's about it
 
This is all covered in the IEE Code of practice for the in-service inspecting and testing of electrical equipment.

Obviously a fixed appliance is not subjected to the tougher conditions of use as say a vacuum cleaner. Therefore testing intervals can be far more generous.
 
Its not a portable appliance , but when carrying out the fixed wire test it worth testing it in the same manner ( continuity , IR , Earth test ), especially if there is age to the cooker
 
Its not a portable appliance , but when carrying out the fixed wire test it worth testing it in the same manner ( continuity , IR , Earth test ), especially if there is age to the cooker

On that argument, you would do the portable appliances too!

These are separate tests unless the client has asked for them.
 
A cooker should still be tested. The idea that it's called portable appliance testing and a cooker is not intended to be moved during use is just a lazy play on words; swapping a plugtop for a FCU doesn't negate the need for testing.
 
Pat (Portable Appliance Testing), is in-service inspecting and testing of electrical equipment and not just portable appliances.
It should have really been called “APPLIANCE TESTING”
And as IQ Electrical said it is covered in the
IEE Code of practice for the in-service inspecting and testing of electrical equipment.
Every pAT tester should really have a copy of it as this is what you are supposed to be working to.

It does NOT just cover portable appliances Nor just appliances with a plug on

IEE Code of practice for the in-service inspecting and testing of electrical equipment.
Refers:

Page 2 fig 1.
The code of practice provides guidance on the inspection and testing of portable, movable and hand tools and equipment connected by means of a cable or cord connected to a outlet plate; appliances to build in; IT equipment; extension leads, multiway adapters and suppressor adapters.

Extract from Section 15.2 Page 72.
Equipment that is permanently connected to a flex outlet type of accessory can more easily be tested using an insulation/continuity test instrument with the test leads connected directly to the accessory terminals. The supply to the accessory is required to be isolated and proved dead at the point of work before testing commences.

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you could make up your own test lead to pat tester to do this
this is something i did with my pat tester so i could do the earth bond test at 25Amp as most continuity testers only do the earth screen continuity test @ approx 200mA
 
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you could make up your own test lead to pat tester to do this
this is something i did with my pat tester so i could do the earth bond test at 25Amp as most continuity testers only do the earth screen continuity test @ approx 200mA

So how did you do this ?
 
It is all explained in the IEE Code of practice for the in-service inspecting and testing of electrical equipment. I would carry out a continuity and nsulaltion test also a formal visual check
 
you could make up your own test lead to pat tester to do this
this is something i did with my pat tester so i could do the earth bond test at 25Amp as most continuity testers only do the earth screen continuity test @ approx 200mA

So how did you do this ?

I used a 2 metre uk plug to IEC lead, cut the IEC off and fitted alligator clips to the earth. live and neutral.

I also have another lead same but without alligator clips (just bear wire) which i use if a cant get alligator clips on, that I screw into same terminals the cooker is in.
simples.

Note: as mentioned in my previous post you MUST make sure the cooker is isolated and proved before doing any of the above.

Also using these leads if you pat tester has this function it is possible to do Earth Leakage tests on most domestic cookers. NB you will need to disconnect the input earth lead from the outlet plate to do this test (make sure you re-connect it when you have finished pat testing).
Note this is a live test Powered from your pat tester and most pat testers can only supply up to a max of 13Amp (2990w).
so don't try testing the whole cooker at once.
you really need to be sure (ideally have manufactures spec) of the individual rings, ovens & grill and if any are above the rating of your pat tester DON'T do this test on that item.
the beauty of this test is if you have got a problem with earth leakage in the cooker it gives you an idea were the problem is.
 
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Thanks for that - trouble is invariably you're at a client that says "Oooh Noo! We don't want the power off - that'll upset all sorts of stuff."

So an "In Situ" test is the best you can provide - at least 100mA earth bond test is better than not at all, and visuals of course (in this case) are the main criteria for this equipment. (Seaward recommend from their COP Rev3 seminars.)
 
Thanks for that - trouble is invariably you're at a client that says "Oooh Noo! We don't want the power off - that'll upset all sorts of stuff."

So an "In Situ" test is the best you can provide - at least 100mA earth bond test is better than not at all, and visuals of course (in this case) are the main criteria for this equipment. (Seaward recommend from their COP Rev3 seminars.)

You only remove power from the Cooker Circuit not the whole premises

The way I'm doing it insitu is still using my pat tester to bond test at 25Amp, insulation test and Load/earth leakage tests.
you can disconnect the cooker if you want and connect cooker lead via a quick cable connector to your pat tester think they are called keynector or something like that.

but I don't see the need to disconnect it when can you do all the tests insitu, even the IEE Code of practice for the in-service inspecting and testing of electrical equipment mentions doing it insitu
 
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It may be good practice to try a continuity test or insulaltion tests on these items but Im curious to know whether the cooker/heater comes under the unbrella of portable aplliance testing?
I mean, some where down the line they should be checked, these pieces of current using equipment, defined as appliances.

I have a landlord mate who is questioning this. He doesn't leave items with plugs on in the flats he rents out but there may be cookers and heaters, hard wired into flex outlets and is unsure whether these pieces of equipment need the Pat test. Secondly, these are in domestic properties, so Im unsure if the PAT testing is a lawful requirement as they are not at work.

It all boils down to insurance companies who may or may not insure your house based on what is or isnt required with regards to fixed current using equipment under a portable applaince test.

There is NO STATUTORY LEGAL requirement for PAT in ANY environment.
Anyone who says there is is an idiot and does not understand the statue law in this area.
End of.
 
There is NO STATUTORY LEGAL requirement for PAT in ANY environment.
Anyone who says there is is an idiot and does not understand the statue law in this area.
End of.

How would you comply with The Electricity at Work Regulations 1989 then?

There is no statutory legal requirement to carry out a periodic inspection on the fixed wiring installation but how else would you prove that the installation was maintained in a safe condition?

EAWR regulation 4(2) requires that "as may be necessary to prevent danger, all systems shall be maintained so as to prevent, so far as is reasonably practicable, such danger"

Also remember that the act makes no distinction between a cooker, a luminaire or a fridge!

End of.
 
Hi - the problem arises because the IEE Code of Practice refers to 'equipment' whether portable or fixed, but most people who do PAT Testing only concern themselves with 'Portable Appliances - ie things with plugs on.'

If you're an electrician, then go ahead and isolate the cooker from the supply, either fit a plug onto it so you can plug it into the tester, or do Earth Bond and IR tests with a installation tester.

I work for a PAT Testing company, and not all of our guys are qualified sparks (they don't need to be to do PAT Testing) so we would always tell our customers that we don't test fixed appliances such as cookers, wall heaters, hand dryers in toilets etc. It does cause a problem if we get a private landlord asking us to do PAT Testing, as they have about 4 or 5 portable appliances (fridge, table lamps etc) but they can't understand why we can't do the cooker as well.
 
A cooker should still be tested. The idea that it's called portable appliance testing and a cooker is not intended to be moved during use is just a lazy play on words; swapping a plugtop for a FCU doesn't negate the need for testing.

When I worked in a local aircraft factory they tried this on the microwaves but the insurance company still wanted them testing as a portable appliance.
 

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