Power source to multiple wafer lights then to switch?

[Diy_electric_lite]

Hi all,

I'm wondering if someone can answer this question concerning a wiring scenario. I recently saw on a youtube video - a guy create a scheme where the power source first went into a light then went to the light switch. Is this safe for series of 6 wafer lights (6 in.) 75W 1140 lumens using 14-2 on a 15 amp breaker?

(6 x Halo canless downlights - slim edge HLBPH6099FS1EMWR)

The reason that I may want this configuration is because the wiring directly to the switch from a wall receptacle (live power source) calls for a little more effort.

I would remember clearly to mark the white wire with Black tape, if presumed safe by someone that knows more than me.

If interested see video
At time stamp 02:15

I imagine this would be safe with 2 million followers, but I'm wondering about contingencies or unforeseen problems.

Thx.
Noob

 

[littlespark]

Old fashioned but still very common practice in the UK. Here known as loop-in or 3-plate system.

The permanent (unswitched) live feed from the panel loops in at each light fitting before reaching the switch. The switched live then comes back from switch dropping off at each light. The neutral connects into each light, and returns to the panel with the live.

The earth or ground terminates at each point along the line…. Every light, and then switch.

If the permanent live has a joint in it, then make sure that joint is in a suitable enclosure and not just hanging in fresh air.

UK standard pendant light fittings still come with a spare terminal for that live loop….. if only expensive, decorative fittings were designed with the same thought process….

 

[Diy_electric_lite]

This is a great answer, thanks. @littlespark

I'm seeing from some schematics that a 3 conductor wire is used so that a neutral is left unused in the new switch box, apparently code in USA, maybe, from NEC 2011.

I'll look it over and if it works, I'll do it.

If not, I'll drill a couple extra dry-wall holes to lace my wire over 10 feet or so. And then go with the standard version of light switch box first.

This will definitely light up my dim living room.

Again thx.

Great outlet here by which to share ideas.

Noobie

 

[littlespark]

It may be code in US to have an unused neutral at a switch… i don’t know.

It’s getting common now in UK for future additions of smart switches which require a neutral.

Yeah.. it’s a great community in the forum here. (Mostly) friendly bunch of people.

 

[Diy_electric_lite]

I finished the project last night. The living room is now bright as a sports stadium. It went well.

I didn't try the old fashioned UK version and yes on some videos, I did see that neutral is very likely now code for the switch box. I used a single pole light switch. It took 6 holes in the dry wall, but it was well worth it. At one point I had to make a large hole to allow my drill to go in between floors and for coming downward on either a 8 by 4 heavy beam or a stack of 2x4s. I simply needed a hole to allow 2 wires to traverse. Because of this I choose a sharp angle, just enough to take a small chunk out of the wood.

Updating these lights makes the living room look new, as if it comes from a new home (a completely different place). My wife said why hadn't we done this earlier. I said it's because we had our money in different areas.

Cheers.