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Discuss RCBO installtion in old MCU following EICR Report in the Periodic Inspection Reporting & Certification area at ElectriciansForums.net

Deanp35

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Hi,

I recently had an EICR done at my property which unfortunately was unsatisfactory. So the electrican advised a new fuseboard from BG General or Fusebox but he advised there will be alteration to the wall as the unit is flush mount inside wall and the mounting frame is glued in with screws and the unit is sitting around 10-15cm deep inside the wall cavity. Basically it would need to be boarded and the whole unit would be sticking out a fair bit in our lounge he said which I think won't look nice. He also mentioned that RCBOs can sometimes fit inside existing consumer units but he seemed to think may not work as my front cover lid is plastic although the rest of the unit including the flush mounting frame is metal. My unit is a Crabtree Starbreaker which is about 20 years old. He said he will speak to Crabtree Technical Team to see if they still source RCBOs, SPD breaker, new Busbar and a metal cover lid for my unit as he said this is required as otherwise it won't comply with current regulations. He got a response from Crabtree who he said advised him that they do not sell RCBOs, SPD, Busbar and a metal cover lid for my unit as it is very old so this option was ruled out. He advised that Crabtree do not do 14 way busbar anymore its only 9, 12 or 15 way busbar and a 15 way bus bar won't fit inside my unit as mine is 14 way. I left it as that and wanted a 2nd opinion from another electrican. He came in and looked at it and advised RCBOs can fit in the unit and he would use a 15 way bus bar from Crabtree. This was complete contrary to what Crabtree and the 1st electrican advised. He did say that Crabtree Starbreaker RCBOs are very expensive so he would look to use MK RCBOs as they are half the price of Crabtree Starbreaker RCBOs but he said he doesn't mind using Crabtree ones but the price would be higher. He did also say that Crabtree Technical Team will say that parts are not available for older units like mine due to liability reasons and to cover their backside.

Who here is right? Crabtree and the 1st electrican or the 2nd electrican?

I have attached image of my MCU. It measures 365mm length and 220mm height (unit only not the mounting frame). The actual cut out area within the unit where the breakers sit is 235mm length and 45mm height.

If new fuseboard is the only option then I will just get this done but if possible I would rather not disturb the walls if the RCBO method is doable in my unit.

Thanks.

Regards

DeanMCU.jpg
 
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Thanks for the replies. The fusebox mounting kit they advised would require new aperture in the wall I have been informed. It won't go into existing wall aperture as per measurements advised. Presumably the RCBO option is not possible as per Crabtree's advise?
 
Thanks for the replies. The fusebox mounting kit they advised would require new aperture in the wall I have been informed. It won't go into existing wall aperture as per measurements advised.
Quite likely the apperture is not exactly the right size for a fusebox kit, but surely it can be enlarged a little or closed off a little as needed. I did one 2 weeks ago doing exactly that - sounds like someone doesn't want the bother- perhaps find an electrican who is not looking for excuses not to do it!
 
Here is my consumer unit and you can see I have old devices like yours and new. The spare way shows where the mcb plugs to the busbar hence they are a unique fit. From my estimation you need a 12 way busbar to fit a row of RCBOs and the neutral bars will need linking, the busbar cannot be cut.
20240404_122445.jpg
 
Update: I had a electrican come in today to install the RCBOs. The 12 way busbar didn't fit in my current MCU. The RCBOs appear to be ok but the busbar didn't fit. He only had the 12 way crabtree busbar and doesn't think a 15 way crabtree busbar will work as its too long. So the RCBO plan failed. The plan of action is now fusebox MCU with its flushing mounting kit. Costly but its the only option I have been advised.
 
Update: I had a electrican come in today to install the RCBOs. The 12 way busbar didn't fit in my current MCU. The RCBOs appear to be ok but the busbar didn't fit. He only had the 12 way crabtree busbar and doesn't think a 15 way crabtree busbar will work as its too long. So the RCBO plan failed. The plan of action is now fusebox MCU with its flushing mounting kit. Costly but its the only option I have been advised.

Your image shows a 15 module board. 12 module busbar would be far too short and I can't imagine why an electrician might suggest a 15 module busbar would be too long when that's what is currently fitted in the board.

Crabtree Part No. 9150 for 15 module mainswitch busbar.

If you want to fit a new board, then by all means do so, but it's certainly not the only option. Mathematics is an essential component of training for every electrician, yet you seem to have an electrician who can't even count into double digits!
 
Your image shows a 15 module board. 12 module busbar would be far too short and I can't imagine why an electrician might suggest a 15 module busbar would be too long when that's what is currently fitted in the board.

Crabtree Part No. 9150 for 15 module mainswitch busbar.

If you want to fit a new board, then by all means do so, but it's certainly not the only option. Mathematics is an essential component of training for every electrician, yet you seem to have an electrician who can't even count into double digits!
I see it as 12 module.
 
I see it as 12 module.

I'd scrolled up to the attached image and counted 15.

Turns out the image was one you'd posted and not that originally posted by the OP 🤦‍♂️


Apologies to the OP and their electrician!

In old Crabtree catalogues Starbreaker busbars were described in terms of total number of modules wide, although latest catalogue seems to include only modules after mainswitch. Either way it seems Crabtree no longer offer a mainswitch busbar to suit the OP's board.
 
I only count after the switch mine is actually 13 as the RCD is 3 modules.

I would generally count usable modules, but Crabtree used to disagree. Didn't realise they'd changed this position until today - in fact, looking more closely they now describe it as both 'main switch/rcd + 13 module' and '15 module' on the same page.

1712342944859.png
 
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Westward 10 mentioned 12 way busbar and thats what my electrican thought as well but it didn't fit. 15 way busbar was too big he said. He would not have changed just 4 RCBOS on the left, he said he was going to change to 6 x RCBOs by taking out the two RCDs on the right and the RCCBs so leaving just the main switch as is and 6 x RCBOs as there is a chance of tripping he said if the RCDs were left however the plan didn't work which is a shame as I was hoping to avoid disturbing the walls so next week it will be the Fusebox F2020MX board with the mounting frame installation.
 
totally agree with westward in post 17, that is exactly what I suggest and it is not a difficult job at all. By the way my DB is similar and I see no need to alter it but if you have to the RCBO way left side is the most sensible
 
Westward 10 mentioned 12 way busbar and thats what my electrican thought as well but it didn't fit. 15 way busbar was too big he said. He would not have changed just 4 RCBOS on the left, he said he was going to change to 6 x RCBOs by taking out the two RCDs on the right and the RCCBs so leaving just the main switch as is and 6 x RCBOs as there is a chance of tripping he said if the RCDs were left however the plan didn't work which is a shame as I was hoping to avoid disturbing the walls so next week it will be the Fusebox F2020MX board with the mounting frame installation.
Why wouldn't he change the four on the left seems the most obvious thing to do. You cannot remove the existing RCD just leave it.
 
Hi,

I recently had an EICR done at my property which unfortunately was unsatisfactory. So the electrican advised a new fuseboard from BG General or Fusebox
This has bothered me a bit Dean, why was the installation unsatisfactory? I generally am interested in why, can you take some pictures of the report and upload it as I like to know these things, lol yes I am a bit nosy
 
Why wouldn't he change the four on the left seems the most obvious thing to do. You cannot remove the existing RCD just leave it.

He advised everything needs to be taken out so that we have 6 - RCBOS and just main switch. The explanation that was given to me is that you can't have 4 - RCBOs and those current existing 2 RCDs for the sockets on the right due to increased risk of tripping. I don't know if that is true but thats what he advised and plus we still have the issue with the new bus bar not fitting current board. A new one won't fit and presumably the current existing bus bar can't be used for installing new RCBOs as a new 12 way one was advised but unfortunately didn't fit.
 
Do you have any tripping problems at the moment?

If there is currently no tripping problem then replacing the first 4 MCBs with RCBOs will not change this. The chance of nuisance tripping after this work will be exactly the same as it is before.

No tripping issues with current board. But we still have the issue with the new 12 way crabtree bus bar as it didn't fit the board and new RCBOs can't be installed on existing current bus bar.
 
This has bothered me a bit Dean, why was the installation unsatisfactory? I generally am interested in why, can you take some pictures of the report and upload it as I like to know these things, lol yes I am a bit nosy

No protection on the first four MCBs, plastic unit (front cover lid) and no SPD from what I recall.
 
He advised everything needs to be taken out so that we have 6 - RCBOS and just main switch. The explanation that was given to me is that you can't have 4 - RCBOs and those current existing 2 RCDs for the sockets on the right due to increased risk of tripping. I don't know if that is true but thats what he advised and plus we still have the issue with the new bus bar not fitting current board. A new one won't fit and presumably the current existing bus bar can't be used for installing new RCBOs as a new 12 way one was advised but unfortunately didn't fit.
Nothing physically needs changing. Starbreaker compact RCBOs will directly fit. Replace the four left side mcbs with RCBOs and move the right two to the two left side spare ways, the latter may not be necessary but it will take the type AC RCD out of the equation. The solution is so simple I cannot understand why they cannot see it.
 
No protection on the first four MCBs, plastic unit (front cover lid) and no SPD from what I recall.

Replace first four MCBs with RCBO's.

The plastic front cover will be a recommendation for improvement and does not prevent a satisfactory report. As long as all terminals are correctly tightened this will be perfectly safe.

SPD is, again, only a recommendation. Lack of an SPD cannot prevent you getting a satisfactory report.
 
Yes they can, the busbar hasn't changed, new RCBOs can be installed to replace the first four MCBs.

I will speak to him today whether he can do this. He may not like the idea that I am reading things from the internet (some builders get defensive as they think I'm educating them with things when they supposedly know best). I think the removal of the 2 RCDs on the right was also due to the fact that I am renting the property which I think was also one of the reasons it was advised to me to have it removed and change to all 6 RCBOs and to take out the RCCB and the big breaker with the yellow button on it as well along with the busbar issue but I will speak to him again.
 
You are letting a builder do this?
The solution is so obvious fit six RCBOs to the left for all circuits. Is the reason they did not fit is because they were not Starbreaker RCBOs?
 
Apologises, by builder I mean electrician as on mybuilder.com they class electrician as builders in one of their categories. My electrican has advised he can't change the RCBOs as the front lid is plastic and SPD required so won't pass EICR. To be honest quite a few electricians have said this and I don't know the reason why. I have with the little knowledge that I have these should be C3s as mine is in good condition, installed in the lounge in open space. I guess some are not making much money from this so just advise new fuse board £600-£700 of work. He said if I can find a metal fronnt lid measuring 365mm by 220mm height, he can then pass EICR with the RCBOs. Problem is none available from ebay or otherwise.
 
I will need to look at another electrician for sure. I have even been told SPD is required due to new legislation changes coming but I'm not sure if a Crabtree Starbreaker SPD will fit my unit. Will need to check.
 
SPDs are relatively speaking recent but the general consensus it would in their absence warrant a Code 3. The same would apply for a combustible consumer unit cover.
 
Irritates me when I hear the DB must be metal as mentioned previously, there are hundreds of thousands if not millions of plastic DBs in the country, these complied with regs when fitted so why is the so called spark insisting it is changed to comply? comply with what, todays regs? if we all had to comply with todays regs all these DBs would need changing and thats not going to happen.

Replace the left side of the board with RCBOs and thats it, get another spark, one who speaks English and one who isn't trying to rape your bank account.
 
#33, you say you are renting this property?

What is the landlord doing about it? Why are you doing the donkey work looking for an electrician?


The electricians on websites such as those always seem desperate for work…. So touting for work that strictly doesn’t need done is commonplace.

If it does go ahead, you can get some aesthetically pleasing consumer units that look fine…. Even sitting out on surface of wall.
 
It is for renting the property yes as otherwise nothing needs doing I was told. To be honest, I understand everything that has been said so far the problem I am getting is no electrician is willing to change the RCBOs and pass EICR and these are coming from Checkatrade and mybuilder websites. Same stories, its plastic, no SPD so it won't pass EICR. In fact only the front lid is plastic, the casing is metal but even then I have not been able to find anyone to do this. I did have another person come in today to have a look and he gave a very different view. He said he would put in additional one RCD breaker in one of the spare blanks in the middle of the MCU to protect the 4 MCBs on the left and that should be fine so not sure what to make of this one. Could this work instead of the RCBO option?
 
Where would be the best place to find an electrician who could do this? Would it be someone who is NICEIC Approved because I have had one who was and told me if its plastic, no RCBOs and EICR will not pass and SPD required. Where would be the best place to find one?
 
You could move the socket circuits onto RCBOs on the mainswitch side and replace lighting / smokes with RCBO, move cooker onto Type AC RCD side (resistive load) and then have a mainswitch way left for a retro fit Surge kit. If you wanted to...
 
Note than a SPD does not have to be inside the CU. Someone posted a link on here to a combined SPD and mains isolator, a week or so ago, that would fit nicely inside a meter cabinet, or anywhere in the tails between meter and CU.
 
Theres room for all 6 circuits to go on the left, so just 6 rcbos 🤒 thats literally all he needs to do. Leave the rcd, or take it out and blank it, makes zero difference. Electricalcompetentperson.co.uk may find you another electrician, doesnt need to be niceic. Get off checkatrade etc. Or get the one you had onto this page if youve already paid for a report. I wonder if we could see the rest of the report?
 
Still unsure. Is OP the landlord or tenant of this property?


I don’t think reading the EICR is going to help…. They seem to have C2ed everything just to get an UNSATISFACTORY and force an awkward board change.

There has been suggestions on how rcbo’s can fit this board to satisfy some of it, but a non combustible cover for the board could be the sticky bit.


Fitting a new board on the surface is the only answer I can see…. That gives rcd protection where it’s needed, an SPD, non combustible materials…. Off the shelf components and straightforward. Only downside is the surface mounting.

Also, to clarify, you don’t need to use the same electrician that did the EICR to do the remedial work.

Although I did say it before, it’s unfair to suggest all electricians on mybuilder or whatever are unscrupulous… there are some good ones, I’m sure.
Word of mouth recommendations are possibly a better bet here. Are there any neighbours that have had work done recently that you could speak to for names?
 
This one:
Good shout, so if they just get 6 rcbos to put everything on the left, pull the old rcd out to free up one more connection on that bar for that spd its all done 👍🏻
 

Reply to RCBO installtion in old MCU following EICR Report in the Periodic Inspection Reporting & Certification area at ElectriciansForums.net

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