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Discuss SWA, T&E or tails?? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

HappyHippyDad

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Evening all..

I am currently doing my first full rewire. The customer is having the wall knocked down with the meter/cutout and CU on it. the plan was to move the CU under the stairs and get DNO to move the supply to the same place. They have said they cannot move the cutout to where the CU will be. The approx length from cutout to CU will now be around 8m so I need to add a fused switch. My questions are about which type of cable to use:

1. I could use 2 core 25mm SWA (seperate 16mm earth) but I am unsure of how easy this is to bend through the route? It will be going straight up from the meter box and then 90degress into the house wall entering directly under the first floor floorboards. What is the best way to get it through the wall without putting too much strain on it (with regards bending angle)?

2. BS7671 states 25mm to be used, however I am fusing down to 80A, could I not use 16mm SWA as CCC is 87A?

3. Could I use tails as at no point will the tails be buried in the wall. They will be going directly under the floor boards from outside the house (suitable protected outside) and then down from the ceiling directly behind the new CU (there will be a cavity behind new CU as I will bring out from the wall). Do they need to be protected if they are not getting buried in the wall?

4. Which is easier to move around/use T&E (16mm or 25mm), SWA (16mm or 25mm) or tails?

5. Which is the best fused switch to use? KMF, wylex metal? Can I gland SWA into a KMF or does it need an adaptable box?

Cheers chaps:biggrin:
 
I wish I could find in BS7671 exactly where it states 25mm needs to be used?
I seem to remember that some DNOs would move a cut out a short distance if the consumer was disabled?
 
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I would preferably use 16mm 2 core SWA, fused down as you say. Never been keen on tails over such lengths running through a buildings fabric. You will be able to find out bending radii of the SWA online. The bigger casing on the Wylex switch fuses makes it a lot easier to terminate into. These ones: IMG_20150702_123302.jpg

Might be a bit of a swine to pull the SWA through though.
 
Evening all..

I am currently doing my first full rewire. The customer is having the wall knocked down with the meter/cutout and CU on it. the plan was to move the CU under the stairs and get DNO to move the supply to the same place. They have said they cannot move the cutout to where the CU will be. The approx length from cutout to CU will now be around 8m so I need to add a fused switch. My questions are about which type of cable to use:

1. I could use 2 core 25mm SWA (seperate 16mm earth) but I am unsure of how easy this is to bend through the route? It will be going straight up from the meter box and then 90degress into the house wall entering directly under the first floor floorboards. What is the best way to get it through the wall without putting too much strain on it (with regards bending angle)?
You would need to chase the brick out a bit to follow the bend then seal afterwards. Bending a cable that size isn't too much trouble with a couple of weetabix for brekky. I would be taking it down and under the ground floor as first choice though.

2. BS7671 states 25mm to be used does it ?, however I am fusing down to 80A, could I not use 16mm SWA as CCC is 87A? which table are you using for this data ?

3. Could I use tails as at no point will the tails be buried in the wall. They will be going directly under the floor boards from outside the house (suitable protected outside) and then down from the ceiling directly behind the new CU (there will be a cavity behind new CU as I will bring out from the wall). Do they need to be protected if they are not getting buried in the wall? Use SWA

4. Which is easier to move around/use T&E (16mm or 25mm), SWA (16mm or 25mm) or tails?

5. Which is the best fused switch to use? KMF, wylex metal? Can I gland SWA into a KMF or does it need an adaptable box? KMF will not accept a gland so you will need an extra box. Metal clad unit is less fiddly.

Cheers chaps:biggrin:

Remarks in red
 
I wish I could find in BS7671 exactly where it states 25mm needs to be used?
I seem to remember that some DNOs would move a cut out a short distance if the consumer was disabled?

ok, ok smarty pants! That OSG does have a lot to answer for!

To make bending the SWA easier, simply drill the hole through the wall on a angle.

Simple!! Cheers Dillb.
 
3- if at no point do the tails go buried in wall tails all the way! Still need a metal switch fuse being greater than 3M from meter! Is under stairs best design place for cu? What height will it be?
 
Personally I would rather move the board so it's closer to the cutout so that i didn't have to fuse it down, I would rather have the capacity in the supply should I want to add juicy appliances.
 
3- if at no point do the tails go buried in wall tails all the way! Still need a metal switch fuse being greater than 3M from meter! Is under stairs best design place for cu? What height will it be?
Have to agree. I'd never put a CU under the stairs. It's just isn't a good design.
 
Evening all..

I am currently doing my first full rewire. The customer is having the wall knocked down with the meter/cutout and CU on it. the plan was to move the CU under the stairs and get DNO to move the supply to the same place. They have said they cannot move the cutout to where the CU will be. The approx length from cutout to CU will now be around 8m so I need to add a fused switch. My questions are about which type of cable to use:

1. I could use 2 core 25mm SWA (seperate 16mm earth) but I am unsure of how easy this is to bend through the route? It will be going straight up from the meter box and then 90degress into the house wall entering directly under the first floor floorboards. What is the best way to get it through the wall without putting too much strain on it (with regards bending angle)?

2. BS7671 states 25mm to be used, however I am fusing down to 80A, could I not use 16mm SWA as CCC is 87A?

3. Could I use tails as at no point will the tails be buried in the wall. They will be going directly under the floor boards from outside the house (suitable protected outside) and then down from the ceiling directly behind the new CU (there will be a cavity behind new CU as I will bring out from the wall). Do they need to be protected if they are not getting buried in the wall?

4. Which is easier to move around/use T&E (16mm or 25mm), SWA (16mm or 25mm) or tails?

5. Which is the best fused switch to use? KMF, wylex metal? Can I gland SWA into a KMF or does it need an adaptable box?

Cheers chaps:biggrin:

HHD have the DNO explained why they won't move the supply? I've had similar things done. They normally take their cable back to the outside so the joint is 'accessible', joint a new section that is then long enough to reach the new point required. Recently had this done on a 3 phase supply into a house, the new run was about 5 meters.
 
Personally I would rather move the board so it's closer to the cutout so that i didn't have to fuse it down, I would rather have the capacity in the supply should I want to add juicy appliances.

Dont see how its relevant as op has stated db is gunna be 8M away so irrelevant! If you use a cable capable of taking the dno full service fuse isolate it at that rating
 
HHD have the DNO explained why they won't move the supply? I've had similar things done. They normally take their cable back to the outside so the joint is 'accessible', joint a new section that is then long enough to reach the new point required. Recently had this done on a 3 phase supply into a house, the new run was about 5 meters.

I dont think its set in stone that the supply will be moved to the outside, but I think its highly likely as that will be a much cheaper option for the customer. He may have to pay me more to extend the tails/SWA but I expect western power would have charged a great deal more than myself! The DNO options are to move it outside (outside wall is approx 30cm away from present supply) or to move it approx 6-7m (I think 8m was an exaggeration!) to the middle of the house.
 
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With regards point 3, which is easier to manipulate.. SWA or tails? I'm assuming tails bend a little more than the equivalent sized SWA?
 
a bit of 2H10

*No protection required
*Chase with a finger chisel
*Includes 24mm² CPC
*45mm bending radius
*Stays where you put it unlike those huge black plastic snakes that leap up and bite you

Or 2H16 up to 100A
 
IMG_0788.jpgIMG_0789.jpg


As Dillb said drill down at an angle to get you under the floor . On this job i stitch drilled out a 3rd of a brick on a downward angle . If the existing gas meter had been in a recessed box i would have followed suit .
 
View attachment 30528View attachment 30529


As Dillb said drill down at an angle to get you under the floor . On this job i stitch drilled out a 3rd of a brick on a downward angle . If the existing gas meter had been in a recessed box i would have followed suit .

Waw have you really installed another meter box next to dno box! If you have that is shocking imo. Put ur switch fuse in the dno box, if its on. The owners property its theirs not dno so you may add your sw fuse in there! Flobbogasted at that pic!!
 
Dont see how its relevant as op has stated db is gunna be 8M away so irrelevant! If you use a cable capable of taking the dno full service fuse isolate it at that rating

It would be poor design to have no discrimination between the DNO fuse and the one you put in. It would be best to leave s gap of one fuse size so take it to 63A. Are you suggesting that it's ok to have two 100A fuses in line? Yes it might well protect the cable but it's not a great idea.

its not irrelevant.
 
It would be poor design to have no discrimination between the DNO fuse and the one you put in. It would be best to leave s gap of one fuse size so take it to 63A. Are you suggesting that it's ok to have two 100A fuses in line? Yes it might well protect the cable but it's not a great idea.

its not irrelevant.


Excuse me? So your suggesting using dno full capacity in one post then slating use of it in another.? Why is it bad practice fusing your submain at same as dno cutout on a capable ccc cable,? Can u explain?
 
Interesting discussion on discrimination, a question I've asked myself before, and received conflicting replies.

The meter box belongs to the owner of the property, but the DNO has certain requirements; BS 8567 (gas is BS 8499).

I asked my DNO (SSE) before on what they would expect to see in such a situation, as here. I asked DNO what would they say about extended tails, 'We would expect a switch fuse, as it is a submain'. Could I put equipment in said box, answer 'No not really, what are you thinking of? Switch fuse? 'Ahhh, okay'.

Considering size of fuse in switch fuse (i.e. DNO 100a, switch fuse 80a), I asked Elecsa tech support for advice;

'Without referring to the time current characteristics of each device for the exact information we believe that the fault protection characteristics of each device will be similar but not the same.

They do provide fault and overload protection for the whole installation. Therefore there will certainly some discrimination with overload protection.

The final decision regarding the discrimination of the two devices would be down to the designer of the installation'.
 
might be an idea to use a MCCB instead of a sw.fuse. cost permitting. this should ensure the MCCB tripping before the \DNO fuse. discuss?
 
might be an idea to use a MCCB instead of a sw.fuse. cost permitting. this should ensure the MCCB tripping before the \DNO fuse. discuss?

Mccb would clearly take out the supply before dno fuse. Domestically 80A is usially suffiecent but with some customers adding multiple electric showers and u/floor leccy heating they are demanding alot more. Had a call out last winter where customers off supply, dno fuse on the pole had gone 60A on pole, 80A in dno head 80A switch fuse! They replaced it with 80.
 
Just to stir the pot a little bit,

Why does the submain fuse need to discriminate with the service fuse?
Why shouldn't you have 2x 100A fuses in series?
 
But in the case of fault protection, could you be certain that an 80 would go before a 100, and in terms of supply, restricting owner to 80amps?
 
But in the case of fault protection, could you be certain that an 80 would go before a 100, and in terms of supply, restricting owner to 80amps?


Seriously?

come on now, how often have you seen over 80 amps being pulled on a supply for a long enough for it to blow the fuse under normal load conditions?
 
Seriously?

come on now, how often have you seen over 80 amps being pulled on a supply for a long enough for it to blow the fuse under normal load conditions?
As I said, posted the same question a while back, and this was one of the replies. I'm willing to be convinced either way.
 
I have a feeling I might be designing quite a few shed / workshop supplies before 1/1/16 ! (to be installed at a later date of course!) 25's fit OK I reckon from below behind DIN and hockeystick in and don't say bending radius....show me a domestic where the bending radius isnt compromised somewhere..
 
Prefer the slightly bigger Wylex one myself. They are apparently coming up with a A3 design soon, expect it will be the old one with a metal lid over fuse & switch. Car manufacturers wouldn't sell many cars, if their new models were designed like that!
 
I've used a few of these to supply submains etc & I agree top value and a decent quality unit,but I've been thinking...what about amendment 3? they don't comply eh?

One I bought and fitted around a month ago had a hinged steel flap over the fuse, not plastic like they show on the photo.
 

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