Discuss Switched Fuse in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi,

Just a a quick one, I fitted this switched fuse today.

i dropped the cable off yesterday and the builder (nice bloke) dropped it in the trench, packed with sand, warning tape etc, 1m deep. Nice job. Then back filled to the top.

Anyway, I get there today and he had only left a poxy bit of cable poking out into the new cupboard.

i have essentially out the load side in the dead when off side of the switch inside as you can see, I only did this as I felt it would be better to do that than extend it and add another joint.

i have suitably labelled it since the photo saying its live etc where the fuses are and you need to isolate at the DP isolator adjacent.

would you leave it as is or swap the lives around do it's the correct way, but would just need to crimp a section in. I can't see any harm in leaving it as it is myself, just looking for other opinions.

just to add, I have put a fly lead from the banjo but not shown in this photo, and I am using a TP switched fuse because there is simply more space in it, I am not in to forcing stuff in to small enclosures, the customer was happy with the price and I'll enjoy the job more.

image.jpg
 
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Just to add this is having a new supply from the road put in next to it. This is a new supply for a house, this cut out is 30m from the road, but 30m from the house too. Dont ask why it's here where it is.
 
Why a triple pole switch fuse for a single phase supply? Also doesn't seem to be any flylead from the banjo.
 
I did put a lead from the banjo to the other bolt where the earth is, just not shown on this photo.

i used this switched fuse as it's simply got more space in it, why struggle with a small enclosure when you don't have to.
 
I can't see the picture but if I've got the gist of the OP right then you need to have a switch fuse arranged such that the fuse is downstream of the switch. This is so that the switch isolates the fuse for it to be replaced safely. Also they are generally designed so that all of the internal links etc are after the switch so that turning the switch off makes it relatively safe to remove the cover and work on it.
I have in the past fitted one or two KMF switch fuses upside down purely to make it possible to connect the right way round.
 
I've got to go back tomorrow anyway so I think I'll probably just extend it to swap it round, unfortunately there was just not enough length in the cable to do it the right way round to start with.

i was just avoiding another joint you see.
 
Ok I can see the picture now.
If you'd fitted a smaller switch fuse or fitted it lower down it would have reached.

Also the banjo appears to be inside the box and not in good contact with the gland body?
 
I couldnt physically get it any lower as the cable wouldn't bend, that's 25mm 3 core.

the banjo is making a good enough connection, it's sodding tight, it's not like it's being used as the earth, it will be connected the other end too.
 
I have to agree with Davesparks, I don't see why you couldn't have glanded the cable lower and mounted the switch fuse in a better position to give you enough to get into the top!
 
I couldnt physically get it any lower as the cable wouldn't bend, that's 25mm 3 core.

the banjo is making a good enough connection, it's sodding tight, it's not like it's being used as the earth, it will be connected the other end too.

So use a spreader box or a bit of galv trunking to get over it.
There's always a way with a bit of creative thinking and care, at the moment it looks a bit rough.
 
I reckon your going to be stuck with a compromise on either correct function,or tidy cabling...not both.

All this stems from not being there,when the cable you specified and selected,was installed.

Not jibing your job,seen plenty where the installer would be ashamed of photos,but even marking a big,horizontal line,in yellow line marker,for the "trench dude" to pull cable to,does not guarantee correct fitting.

You really have to be there.

...And if you were,all this would be academic!

...I'm at least confident you will have plenty spare,at the other end :38:
 
at the moment it looks a bit rough.
I would have to disagree, it looks far from rough, what is rough about it eh?

I reckon your going to be stuck with a compromise on either correct function,or tidy cabling...not both.
I told him to leave 1m - 1.5m poking out the end of the pipe which he didn't, he then back filled a 30m trench... not exactly the possible to move.

A couple of terminal blocks to extend the cable and you are good to go!
It's ok, ill just swap the lives around and crimp and heat shrink, it will look fine.

You must be really struggling to find something to pick holes in on this one.....splitting hairs or what?
Thanks.
 
You can see here the pipe and the cable coming out of it. It was not particularly possible to bend it any further, it is not exactly flexible stuff.

I got it as low as it would go, its very easy for you all to say move it lower, but as none of you were there doing it....

2016-05-19 12.29.03-1.jpg
 
If you fit a single phase Switched fuse that takes up less space in the box, could you then not fit it lower down in a more central position? Might leave enough space above to get the other gubbins in you need?
 
I was keeping it over to one side as WPD have got to put a cutout in there and also the meter and I didn't want it all crammed in, it made more sense keeping it to one side.

You could say fit a single phase switched fuse, but the SP equivalent is significantly smaller and just a pain in the --- to work with, I would rather not struggle with it.

Like I say, the central position would have been more in the way.
 
Forgive me for what is probably such a basic question, (and especially since I'm probably wrong), but shouldn't the load side go to the top edge of that isolator with the supply entering the bottom?
 

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