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Discuss Are mains sockets permitted in bathrooms? in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello. I am extending my bathroom, but one of the walls that will be incorporated into the bathroom has a socket fitted. Is this allowed in a bathroom or is it best to remove the socket and fit a cover?
 
13A socket outlets are permitted providing they are not less than 3m from the boundary edge of zone 1.[/QUOTE
13A socket outlets are permitted providing they are not less than 3m from the boundary edge of zone 1.
Thank you for your quick reply. The socket is too close to zone 1. Behind the socket three cables converge, bearing in mind that I am replacing the plasterboard in that area what is the best method of connect the cables together?
 
'Thank you for your quick reply. The socket is too close to zone 1. Behind the socket three cables converge, bearing in mind that I am replacing the plasterboard in that area what is the best method of connect the cables together?'

Either use the existing back box, suitable connectors and a front plate or a suitable maintenance free junction box. Any further information, would be a step by step guide, which is against forum rules.

I'd consider employing a competent electrician. Such work could be notifiable to local building control.
 
Designate your bath as a swimming pool, and as long as its rcd protected you can reduce the distance to 2 metres. :)
I am kidding of course but it's in the regs 702.53ii a socket outlet is permitted in zone 2 and that's 2 metres from the edge of the pool
 
'Thank you for your quick reply. The socket is too close to zone 1. Behind the socket three cables converge, bearing in mind that I am replacing the plasterboard in that area what is the best method of connect the cables together?'

Either use the existing back box, suitable connectors and a front plate or a suitable maintenance free junction box. Any further information, would be a step by step guide, which is against forum rules.

I'd consider employing a competent electrician. Such work could be notifiable to local building control.
Thank you, could you recommend a suitable maintenance free junction box?
 
Such work could be notifiable to local building control.
I gave you a Funny because it's one of those situations where doing it just before knocking down the wall wouldn't be notifiable, but after would.
Anyway, not a lot of people realise that replacing a bathroom is classed as building work under the building regulations and should be notified to the local building control.
 
The day anyone on here notifies building control they are doing work in their bathroom I'll eat my hat lol.
 
Well you will be the first one that has ever done it lol
 
Pity!
As I said above. You cannot leave live cables in the wall and just plaster over them, unless they are at least 50mm from the surface.

So you have two obvious options
1. Rewire the socket so there are no cables in the wall. This may be tough as the cables come from two directions, but there may be a service duct in a corner, or other routes that the cables could take. You'll obviously need to find a location for a junction, or two.
2. Connect the conductors together, in the existing back box, using some insulated terminal block, or Wago-type connector.
Then put a blank plate over the back box, but on top of your new plasterboard so it can be seen.
 
Sounds like it's an upstairs RFC feeding sockets below and a single T&E drop.

Not a 70's built house by any chance?
 
Pity!
As I said above. You cannot leave live cables in the wall and just plaster over them, unless they are at least 50mm from the surface.

So you have two obvious options
1. Rewire the socket so there are no cables in the wall. This may be tough as the cables come from two directions, but there may be a service duct in a corner, or other routes that the cables could take. You'll obviously need to find a location for a junction, or two.
2. Connect the conductors together, in the existing back box, using some insulated terminal block, or Wago-type connector.
Then put a blank plate over the back box, but on top of your new plasterboard so it can be seen.
Yes, that's the route I'll take terminal block with a wall plate.
 
Yes, that's the route I'll take terminal block with a wall plate.
Use Wago or similar, not those horrible choc block things...

This may look expensive on the face of it however they will cover most options in your house and are rated for up to 32 amps: https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wago-lever-connector-set-32a-85-pieces/2305r
 
Erm...what sauce would you like on your hat, MDJ?
I installed a new loo and got a Building Warrant and Completion Certificate for that.
The lady from BC who inspected it was in the house less than 1 minute, said "Nice shower!" and left!
 
Erm...what sauce would you like on your hat, MDJ?
I installed a new loo and got a Building Warrant and Completion Certificate for that.
The lady from BC who inspected it was in the house less than 1 minute, said "Nice shower!" and left!
Well there is always one t!t
 
'Thank you for your quick reply. The socket is too close to zone 1. Behind the socket three cables converge, bearing in mind that I am replacing the plasterboard in that area what is the best method of connect the cables together?'

Either use the existing back box, suitable connectors and a front plate or a suitable maintenance free junction box. Any further information, would be a step by step guide, which is against forum rules.

I'd consider employing a competent electrician. Such work could be notifiable to local building control.
You can build a cupboard around the socket
 
Use Wago or similar, not those horrible choc block things...

This may look expensive on the face of it however they will cover most options in your house and are rated for up to 32 amps: https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wago-lever-connector-set-32a-85-pieces/2305r
Thanks for the suggestion, I've ordered a box they're just what I need.
 
Use Wago or similar, not those horrible choc block things...

This may look expensive on the face of it however they will cover most options in your house and are rated for up to 32 amps: https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wago-lever-connector-set-32a-85-pieces/2305r
Thanks for the suggestion, I've ordered a box they're just what I need.
 
I would suggest you get an Electrician in ;)
 
Some places find that sockets in the bathroom are the way to go...
WP_20180824_08_11_04_Pro.jpg
Obviously the low level socket is nearly 15cm from the edge of the wash basin, ideal for my straighteners, and the higher level hairdryer and shaver socket make sense too as they are miles away from the basin...
 
and while I am talking Spanish electrics,
WP_20180824_08_10_36_Pro.jpg
as a total amateur, what are the 3 chaps at the right? I am guessing they are to do with the card-switch system, so when you put your card in the slot so you can use the lights etc these activate the circuits for them and the sockets and aircon? Clearly that wee slotty thing can't carry the load on its own. Or am I talking rubbish...
 
Some places find that sockets in the bathroom are the way to go...
View attachment 43928
Obviously the low level socket is nearly 15cm from the edge of the wash basin, ideal for my straighteners, and the higher level hairdryer and shaver socket make sense too as they are miles away from the basin...
Bleedin' 'ell...….Johnny Depp talkin'?
 
it's important to take care of one's appearance, as Mrs Pirate keeps telling me, hence I had my hair cut last week...
always have it cut twice a year whether I need it or not.
You can't go swashbuckling with untidy hair!
 
Thanks for that clarification Taylor2Cs!
Naturally, the hotels like to save electricity, so I would never use my Tesco card to keep the aircon on while down at the beach...
 

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