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Discuss Code 1 Problems - Am I being Scammed? in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectrciansForums.co.uk.

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  1. darkforces
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    darkforces EF Member

    I am about to rent my 1st Floor flat out to tenants and was required to carry out an electrical survey report. The failure points were as follows.

    No RCD Protection CODE 1
    Fusebox not Labelled CODE 1
    Circuit 9 should be rated at 16amps (not 32amp - firehazard) CODE 1
    No Danger Stickers or labels CODE 1
    Hob ignition 0.75mm cable connected to a 32amp cooker circuit CODE 1
    Heat detector in hall instead of a smoke alarm CODE 2

    I bought the flat 4 years ago in 2007 and the electrical system has not been touched since then. The electrician estimates the electrical system has been in place for about 10 years. From reading around these forums RCD protection is not needed for flats on the 1st floor and also due to the age of the system also not required. Can someone confirm this. Also is this a code 1 failure?

    There also seems to be some other dubious Code 1 entries which he has failed the certificate on. Can anyone clarify if these are CODE 1 problems.

    I got the feeling when I spoke to this guy he was taking me for a bit of a ride as I know nothing ab out electrics so decided to come over here and ask you guys. If anyone can help with this it would be a great weight off my shoulders as the quote to make all this compliant comes to well over £800

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Engineer54
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    Engineer54 Guest

    Ill leave the explanations to others far better versed in PIR matters, but Yes, you are being scammed on the use of ALL of those code 1 failures....
     
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  3. Blowcat
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    Blowcat Regular EF Member

    Location:
    North West london
    Ouch . I would change the following codes

    No RCD Protection CODE 1 >>>>CODE 4. (code 1 for sockets that feed equipment used outside)
    Fusebox not Labelled CODE 1 >>>>CODE 4. Buy a black marker pen and write the circuits on your self or number the fuses 1 to ?? and print the page of the PIR with the circuit details on.
    Circuit 9 should be rated at 16amps (not 32amp - firehazard) CODE 1. Assuming the circuit cable is 2.5mm>>CODE 1
    No Danger Stickers or labels CODE 1>>>> CODE 4. 230V label, RCD label??, Mixed colour wiring label.
    Hob ignition 0.75mm cable connected to a 32amp cooker circuit CODE 1. Assuming the cable is not on a plug top or fused via a fuse spur. CODE 1, but if fed via a plug top as most are then I would expect this to be satisfactory.
    Heat detector in hall instead of a smoke alarm CODE 2. To be honest I would not give it a code. Smoke alarm is advised but if near the kitchen and a smoke sets it off often then a heat is good alternative.

    Some testers have been instructed to be extra cautious and fear for prosecution if they dont give a code 1. Dont be too hard on him, sounds like he just aint grown any balls yet.
     
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    Last edited: Sep 4, 2011
  4. Blowcat
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    Blowcat Regular EF Member

    Location:
    North West london
    Could you tell us How many circuits did he test, how long it took him and most importantly the cost. ???
     
  5. JUD
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    JUD Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    East Yorkshire
    Not necessarily a code 1. If the installation pre-dates the requirement for RCDs then code 4 (does not comply with BS 7671:2008)

    Bit harsh. Again, code 4 IMO


    Depends on size of circuit conductors. More info needed.

    Code 4 again.

    Yep. That should really be wired via an FCU or plug.



    Code 1 is used when conditions present an immediate danger. IMO missing labels and warning signs are not an immediate danger.
     
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  6. Engineer54
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    Engineer54 Guest

    I think your two code 1's are actually code 2s from what i have read on code structures. Code 1 is reserved for imminent danger to persons or property!! But i stand to be corrected on this matter.
     
  7. IQ Electrical
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    IQ Electrical Trusted Advisor

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  8. widdler
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    widdler Trusted Advisor

    Location:
    North East

    The electrician you hired is clearly incompetent. That's a disgusting use of a PIR.
     
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  9. DurhamSparky
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    DurhamSparky Guest

    the fact he carried out a PIR and never labeled up the CU before he left begs questions!! if any thing once you find out what they do label the box if only for your convience!!

    you been scammed my friend!!
     
  10. JUD
    Offline

    JUD Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    East Yorkshire
    This would also depend on what the circuit is supplying.

    It maybe that the breaker is providing fault protection only i.e fixed load (no overload protection required).

    If that were the case then you'd need to use the adiabatic equation to determine weather the conductors are correctly sized for any fault current that may occur.
     
  11. Blowcat
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    Blowcat Regular EF Member

    Location:
    North West london
    On reflection Yes I guess you could give it a code 2 for the 32amp breaker but for the flex to the hob ignition I still feel a code 1 is acceptable.
     
  12. IQ Electrical
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    IQ Electrical Trusted Advisor

    A code 1 is attributed to an immediate danger that does not require a second scenario to occur to create the danger.

    Examples are exposed live parts etc.

    Have a look at the guide (link above) for further information.
     
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  13. Engineer54
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    Engineer54 Guest

    Well it's certainly not something you would want to remain in place, that's for sure!! Perhaps IQ might add his veiw on that one...lol!! As i said, i stand to be corrected in both cases!!
     
  14. Engineer54
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    Engineer54 Guest

    OOOOps he just did, .....sort of!! lol!!
     
  15. IQ Electrical
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    IQ Electrical Trusted Advisor

    I think I just beat you to it!
     
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