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Discuss Converting split load CU to Main Switch (RCBOs) in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Amblik

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Hi folks, i have a 16 way British General CU which was configured as split load.

I'm converting to all RCBOs which is fine apart from one small detail, i don't have a single neutral bar long enough.

The earth bar is fine - plenty of ways for CPC doubled with RCBO functional earth.
The neutral bars are 9 way and 8 way - i need a 17 way (minimum) single piece.

Can't for the life of me find them for sale anywhere! Does anyone know where i can get one?
Alternatively, can the 2 separate neutral bars be linked with one of the existing 25mm cables?
(Although i'd really rather not do this - seems like a hack and is not clear at a glance what is going on)
Any help greatly appreciated.
 
If it is split load as I know it then some are protected by a single rcd with the others having no rcd, correct?
 
just link the N bars. that's how CUs used to be configured and you took the link out if you wanted 2 RCDs. a "U" shaped bit of bare copper link was fitted by manufacturer.
 
just bodgit and scarper in line with niceic guidance. ( as long as your subs.is not overdue).
Or Stroma, NAPIT et al. Bit harsh tel. Not all us NIC guys are cowboys. At least north of the boarder we only have 2 registration bodies and no DI's :)
 
Thanks very much for the replies.
Regarding the 3 switches, i can't get away with that as it would take up too many ways which is one of the reasons for switching to RCBOs in the first place.

I don't have a manufactured link cable or solid link for connecting 2 separate neutral bars, but i could crimp one up. It just seems like a bit of an untidy job to me when i know the terminal bars can be had from somewhere. Interestingly, you can actually buy the exact same CU as a main switch only board which has the single piece terminal bar. Obviously i'm not going to go out and buy a whole new CU though.
 
I don't have a manufactured link cable or solid link for connecting 2 separate neutral bars, but i could crimp one up.
That's your option. But you'll need to carefully know how thick that neutral link is going to be. It could be carrying a lorra current.

As in your first post. Just use the neutral cable from the old RCD to link the two neutral bars.

But why do you simply not just put two RCBO neutral tails into each of the existing neutral busbar holes??? Numbering will not really matter as the circuit line and neutrals will be terminated on the RCBO itself.
 
Are you an Electrician Amblik?

^^'are you a spark?

Why the change to rcbo's?

Busted. No i'm not a spark.

As for the change to RCBOs, its mainly a space thing. The area for the CU is quite small and for future proofing i'm putting in a 16 way CU with 9 initial circuits which means 11 ways are used up with main switch and RCBOs.

Anyway, i managed to find the terminal bar online so will go down that route which will be a bit tidier.

Thanks!
 
No i'm not a spark.
To do that you need to be. All of the work you are doing is notifiable and you don't have a scooby on what you are doing.
EDIT: I see you are in Scotland. But don't you still need to be NICEIC or Select to do that stuff?

How are you going to test the RCBOs? Got a calibrated RCD tester? Or will you just press the test button and hope to hear a click?

As they say on Dragons' Den: I'm out.
 
and you don't have a scooby on what you are doing.

Wee bit harsh maybe? :)

The calibration certificate for my wee KT64 runs out in March - suppose i better get a shifty on. (or i'll grab some kit from the office)

Anyway, inspection, sign off and final test by NICEIC colleague.
Design, first fix by me (and i'll be testing it all anyway) but he will re run all tests to his satisfaction before sign off. (won't get the completion certificate for the building work otherwise now would i? :) )

Also its not like its a 33kv live installation - come on.

I asked on here where i could buy a bit of brass. Jesus Christ indeed! :)
 
Wee bit harsh maybe? :)

The calibration certificate for my wee KT64 runs out in March - suppose i better get a shifty on. (or i'll grab some kit from the office)

Anyway, inspection, sign off and final test by NICEIC colleague.
Design, first fix by me (and i'll be testing it all anyway) but he will re run all tests to his satisfaction before sign off. (won't get the completion certificate for the building work otherwise now would i? :) )

Also its not like its a 33kv live installation - come on.

I asked on here where i could buy a bit of brass. Jesus Christ indeed! :)
Have you ever been smacked by 230 Volts Amblik? 33KV will knock you dead almost immediately 23o on the other hand will constrict your muscles and you wont, cant let go of it"It's like it's 33KV" my ---.
 
My apologies, i was just pointing out that it looked like you misquoted my reply - saying "its like its 33kv". I'm well aware of the differences between electrocution and a 230 jab. It just sounded a wee bit like you were implying the 230 jab was worse?

To clarify, i meant that working on an isolated 230v 1ph CU installation is different from working on a live 33kv 3ph installation.

Anyway, thanks for the help and replies, apart from the suggestion that i bodge it and scarper - maybe that's a special English wrangle ;) )
 
To clarify, i meant that working on an isolated 230v 1ph CU installation is different from working on a live 33kv 3ph installation.

Many people have been seriously hurt or killed from a 230V shock. Remember it only takes a few mA to do serious damage - don't underestimate what it can do. Work safe and don't get too complacent.

Friendly advice - not having a go by the way.
 
Many people have been seriously hurt or killed from a 230V shock. Remember it only takes a few mA to do serious damage - don't underestimate what it can do. Work safe and don't get too complacent.

Friendly advice - not having a go by the way.
You're absolutely right - good advice that is. And worth remembering that sometimes its easier to get complacent about the low voltage stuff.

Stay safe folks. Thanks.
 
Many people have been seriously hurt or killed from a 230V shock. Remember it only takes a few mA to do serious damage - don't underestimate what it can do. Work safe and don't get too complacent.

Friendly advice - not having a go by the way.
I would, have ago that is
 

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