Discuss Flashing LEDs when fan and lights off in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Hi Clanky
If you haven't given up already (and by the 70th post perfectly understandable) could you take a pic of the insides of the Manrose 1351 timer and post it here. I believe you bought a second one in case the first was faulty (which it wasn't)?
PS from the pic below, it may be slightly tricky to get into it - don't break anything, I'd rather you left it!

View attachment 110023
I'll try and open a spare tomorrow and get back to you, thanks, Mark.
 
Apologies Marconi - I read your post #66 before your earlier post 64 and was so absorbed I failed to realise in the latter you were talking about the Manrose remote 1351 timer, not the fan itself, so my subsequent post 69 was completely unnecessary.
Thank you again for your very useful input.
 
I drew the zener diodes connected the wrong way round in my first post. To block the +14V they need to be as in the sketch attached.
 

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Hi Clanky
Do take the advice of Mr Marconi, who is a very knowledgeable and well respected member of this forum, and buy the zener diodes he suggests (cheaper than snubbers if you find the right supplier).
All the evidence suggests this will solve the problem!
Avo Mk8 - i have taken Mr Marconi's advice and ordered Zener diodes - will fit them when they arrive.

Mr Marconi, thank you for the advice i have/will take it - zeners ordered.

Mike Johnson- for info 4 pmr209s fitted - I per led JB, still flashes like a hell until the fan stops then just very dimly.

Everyone - worthy of note: I think Mr Marconi may hold the answer because after the SL trigger signal has been sent to the timer from the light switch, and the lights are off but the fan is running on, if i then disconnect the SL at the 1351 timer all flickering stops - a Zener would do the same as my disconnection.

I really appreciate everyone fighting on with me on this - I don't like to be beaten and appreciate the help - I will keep all updated.
 
I drew the zener diodes connected the wrong way round in my first post. To block the +14V they need to be as in the sketch attached.
Good afternoon Marconi, when I get the diodes what type of enclosure do I pit them in - a small wago box with heat shrink on diode tails into wago connector/chocolate block?
Many thanks, Mark.
 
Hi
Apologies for chiming in on this.
It occurred to me if you are using the Manrose 1351 back box supplied with it, that's an enclosure that you could use right away!
Probably a good idea to sleeve the leads of the diode, though doesn't have to be heat-shrink!
You could put the banded end of the diode in the SL terminal of the Manrose, and stick a single choc block, or 2 hole Wago on the other end of the diode, and add the wire that was previously in the SL terminal.
Or a more elegant and robust method (for the diode) would be to put the diode across the terminals of a twin choc block, and then wire that to the SL terminal and the switch cable.
That all assumes there is enough room amongst the wiring already in there!IMG_0239.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Hi
Apologies for chiming in on this.
It occurred to me if you are using the Manrose 1351 back box supplied with it, that's an enclosure that you could use right away!
Probably a good idea to sleeve the leads of the diode, though doesn't have to be heat-shrink!
You could put the banded end of the diode in the SL terminal of the Manrose, and stick a single choc block, or 2 hole Wago on the other end of the diode, and add the wire that was previously in the SL terminal.
Or a more elegant and robust method (for the diode) would be to put the diode across the terminals of a twin choc block, and then wire that to the SL terminal and the switch cable.
That all assumes there is enough room amongst the wiring already in there!View attachment 110082
Thank you - I will try the double choc bloc option, I think there will be room. I wasn't sure if there would be any heat generated by the diode.

Many thanks Mark.
 

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