IS this legal? Possible rogue tradesmen

[neil123478]

When I first moved into my apartment I had an "electrician" (unsure re his qualifications) add a 2 pronged power outlet to our lounge for our TV (no high wattage items)

Instead of running new wiring from the fuse box he used the "old" wires from the socket where we previously had an electric heater. (more on this later). The plug itself works perfectly after 3 years and I've had no issues with it. When I move out how do I make it clear that the fuse box switch would be that of the heaters and not the plugs for the rom? Would a sticker / sign be enough? Or should I be running new wires from the fuse box?

Now this heater itself is now connected the power supply of another heater both approx 1200w. The electrican wired it through the wall as there was a electric heater in the bedroom exactly opposite so they both share the same supply. Again I've never had any issues with this. The main issue now is the fuse for this is linked to the bedroom heater.

Finally I want to flip the plug (coincidently it will be in the same storage room as the fuse box and water storage heater) and a switch so it is on the opposite side of the plasterboard? Is this legal? The switch itself connects to the kitchen lights but the light switch is currently on the lounge side of the room.

How much of this is "code/building regs". The reason I ask is I will be moving out soon and may be selling or renting and dont want to be putting anyone in danger.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

a 2 pronged power outlet

Given that your location is given as London, this needs to be clarified. There is no type of 2-prong outlet (2-pin socket) used in the UK and none should be fitted. Do you mean 2-gang a.k.a 'double socket' i.e. accepts two plugs?

If I understand you correctly, a circuit that originally supplied two heaters now supplies one heater and one socket-outlet that was installed for a TV. If the circuit is adequately rated for the purpose and protected by the correct rating of MCB in the consumer unit, then there is no need to run new cables and the existing setup is OK. It is not the most obvious configuration but if the MCB is correctly labelled to show that it feeds the heater and socket outlet, there should be no confusion. It is impossible to tell from your description whether the cable is adequately rated; it would need inspection if you are unsure whether it was originally done in a compliant manner.

Whether it will be permissible to relocate fittings to the reverse side of walls depends on a number of factors, for example how the cables are run within the walls, as the safe zones in which they must run are related to the visible position of the fittings.

 

[neil123478]

Given that your location is given as London, this needs to be clarified. There is no type of 2-prong outlet (2-pin socket) used in the UK and none should be fitted. Do you mean 2-gang a.k.a 'double socket' i.e. accepts two plugs?

If I understand you correctly, a circuit that originally supplied two heaters now supplies one heater and one socket-outlet that was installed for a TV. If the circuit is adequately rated for the purpose and protected by the correct rating of MCB in the consumer unit, then there is no need to run new cables and the existing setup is OK. It is not the most obvious configuration but if the MCB is correctly labelled to show that it feeds the heater and socket outlet, there should be no confusion. It is impossible to tell from your description whether the cable is adequately rated; it would need inspection if you are unsure whether it was originally done in a compliant manner.

Whether it will be permissible to relocate fittings to the reverse side of walls depends on a number of factors, for example how the cables are run within the walls, as the safe zones in which they must run are related to the visible position of the fittings.

So previously there was to 800W heaters on this circuit. It is rated for 16A according to the fuse so thankfully should be ok.

Bizarrely the soundbar will turn of for a split when the oven "click"/cools down.

Re moving the cables it would be exactly behind it at the same level. I was planning on poking a hole in the metal box and just feeding the cables through to the other side.

 

[brianmoooore]

There is no requirement in the UK for all sockets in a room to be on the same circuit. It is the responsibility of anyone working on a particular socket to ensure that it is safely isolated before doing so.
Any circuit supplying sockets should be labeled as such at the consumer unit, but normally in such detail as to identify individual sockets.

 

[Dartlec]

Already some good advice given, but if you are thinking of renting you will need to get an EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report), which will check that your wiring is suitable.

There may well be some pressure to get one done if you are selling too though it's not actually a legal requirement.

Given your possible concerns it might be sensible anyway for your peace of mind. Just be sure you get one with an electrician who is going to be on site for a few hours, not a 20 minute "drive by" for £75.

With regard to adding a socket - you may well be able to add one on the reverse side, but may be just as easy to leave the existing one if there's no good reason to remove it.

If adding a new socket you'd need to ensure it was RCD protected, which it may or may not be at the moment.

A picture of the fuseboard and the socket in question might well make it easier to answer your questions with more clarity...

 

[neil123478]

So the has a BG16 fuse so shoulder be more than enough.

The reason I want to switch the plug around is because I want to mount the tv on the wall and have all the plugs wires, sky box in the adjacent store cupboard

Re the EIRC I have a plastic fuse box. My understanding was to rent I would have to get it swapped to a metal one anyway so at that point I was planning on getting this. Am i correct?

The reason for moving the light switch is because the TV will be blocking it and you'd have to reach around to turn it on and off.

In regards to moving the light switch is there such thing as a wireless relay. So I can move the switch without having to cut into the plasterboard. Something like this?

Thinkbee MINI Wireless Light Switch Kit, Quick Create or Relocate On/Off Switch for In-/Outdoor Lamp up to 1000W, No Wiring/Easy-installing/Portable/Waterproof Switch Remote Control Up to 1300ft, A : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Thinkbee MINI Wireless Light Switch Kit, Quick Create or Relocate On/Off Switch for In-/Outdoor Lamp up to 1000W, No Wiring/Easy-installing/Portable/Waterproof Switch Remote Control Up to 1300ft, A : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

www.amazon.co.uk

Given that it is only £20 pounds and I would probably want to undo this when I move out ?

 

[Mike Johnson]

Look for the Quinetic remote switch they do not use batteries in the switch unit.

 

[Dartlec]

So the has a BG16 fuse so shoulder be more than enough.

The reason I want to switch the plug around is because I want to mount the tv on the wall and have all the plugs wires, sky box in the adjacent store cupboard

Re the EIRC I have a plastic fuse box. My understanding was to rent I would have to get it swapped to a metal one anyway so at that point I was planning on getting this. Am i correct?

The reason for moving the light switch is because the TV will be blocking it and you'd have to reach around to turn it on and off.

In regards to moving the light switch is there such thing as a wireless relay. So I can move the switch without having to cut into the plasterboard. Something like this?

Thinkbee MINI Wireless Light Switch Kit, Quick Create or Relocate On/Off Switch for In-/Outdoor Lamp up to 1000W, No Wiring/Easy-installing/Portable/Waterproof Switch Remote Control Up to 1300ft, A : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Thinkbee MINI Wireless Light Switch Kit, Quick Create or Relocate On/Off Switch for In-/Outdoor Lamp up to 1000W, No Wiring/Easy-installing/Portable/Waterproof Switch Remote Control Up to 1300ft, A : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

www.amazon.co.uk

Given that it is only £20 pounds and I would probably want to undo this when I move out ?

There is no absolute requirement for a correctly installed plastic consumer unit to need updating to a metal one. New ones must be non combustible, but the regulations are not retrospective. Some inspectors will use a cheap EICR as a change to get work and code it as such though. Others will suggest, but not require, it be upgraded if it's under a wooden staircase for example.

If the existing one is poorly installed, with signs of damage, or holes where fingers etc could get in, then it might need replacement of course, but that is down to the inspector using their judgement.

The switch you link to would likely be functional - I've installed similar before and they do work, though the Quinetic ones are likely to be more reliable.

The cheaper options and the original Quinetic option needs a neutral and usually is wired at the light though, rather than at the switch, so unless your wiring is fairly recent and has a Live and a Neutral at the switch it may involve more fiddling that you'd want....

Quinetic now make a switch/receiver that could be a direct replacement for your switch, so that may be the best option to reduce installation troubles....

 

[neil123478]

So the normal switch has two brown(why two?) wires going into it.

This can be connected directly to the unit I linked above which is a lot cheaper than the amazon version.

The unit also has a blue wires connected to the connector. I was planning to either break the circuit completely at this point and have the wireless receiver in the middle or just connect it to the neutral wire as it doesnt really matter?

So to me the most straighforward way would be plug the live into the supply side of the switch and plug the neutral into the connector for the blue neutral cable.

By keeping the switch I would still be able to fall back on the switch is that correct?

 

[neil123478]

Just about to wire it. Can anyone shed any light as to why there are two brown wires and two neutral wires being connected to the block/switch. There are 3 lights? Presumable the single wire is the "live" wire

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Depending on whether thats the incoming live or outgoing live it could be live in, live out or 2 switched lives (although this would be strange).

Maybe use your prongs to test and find out? I'm sure you'll have some as you would have used them to check all cables are dead.

 

[neil123478]

Depending on whether thats the incoming live or outgoing live it could be live in, live out or 2 switched lives (although this would be strange).

Maybe use your prongs to test and find out? I'm sure you'll have some as you would have used them to check all cables are dead.

TBH I was planning on just turning all the power of to the flat

I've just purchased a £10 voltage tester to be extra safe

 

[pc1966]

TBH I was planning on just turning all the power of to the flat

I've just purchased a £10 voltage tester to be extra safe

Always check for power!

There have been cases of houses converted in to flats and at least one socket in one flat actually powered from the other flat's wiring. Rare yes, stupid completely, but it has happened.

 

[neil123478]

Re flipping the switch around. I may need a longer cable to get it to reach through the wall which is approx 10cm.

Just double checking. This wire would be enough?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/time-3183tq-white-3-core-2-5mm-flexible-cable-1m-coil/71940

 

[DPG]

Re flipping the switch around. I may need a longer cable to get it to reach through the wall which is approx 10cm.

Just double checking. This wire would be enough?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/time-3183tq-white-3-core-2-5mm-flexible-cable-1m-coil/71940

No, that is not the sort of cable you need for fixed wiring.

 

[ElectricSeamus]

So.

 

[neil123478]

No, that is not the sort of cable you need for fixed wiring.

would you be able to suggest the correct type?

 

[LukeD]

Always check for power!

There have been cases of houses converted in to flats and at least one socket in one flat actually powered from the other flat's wiring. Rare yes, stupid completely, but it has happened.

Near islington years ago a guy turned a property into 4 flats .Him keeping the top flat etc .

Turned out he had pulled power from the other 3 flats and a gas supply ! It only came to light when someone noticed some 'extra tails coming from the other meters etc . He had lived there for 15 years with no gas or electrics bill !

 

[DPG]

would you be able to suggest the correct type?

To be honest I'm a bit reluctant. I think from the questions you are asking you would best to get an electrician in to do this work. Shouldn't cost a great deal.

 

[neil123478]

Ok so good news its all working pefectly. The light switch was fairly easy to wire.

With the plug I poked a hole in the adjacent plasterboard and poked out one the precut holes. I just used the wire that was already there as there was more than enough slack. Working well.

Now I need to get the TV and soundbar up