New member fitting single oven flex

[Bushy-Beard]

Hi all just here as an enthusiastic learner/diyer to gain knowledge and help on bits and bobs
At the moment I am confused I have a new single electric oven totals 2.2kw,
I have 6mm cable from mcb on a 40amp breaker on dedicated cooker point on board
The oven has 1.5mm flex no plug and the label on the flex says do not use plug
Can someone help me with a route around this please
Here is my theory of how to do it
Drop breaker down to 20amp and re run 2.5mm from mcb to a single socket and run a 2.5mm fused spur switch from that single socket and just put a bg plug on the 1.5 flex ?
Thanks

 

[cireland]

Is there a cooker switch? Cooker outlet?
If the manufacturer is telling you not to fit a plug, I wouldn't.
What is the current oven connected to?

 

[littlespark]

If you drop the mcb down to 20, (16 would do?)
you don’t have to change the 6mm cable.

Ensure it is rcd protected.

 

[brianmoooore]

If the manufacturer is telling you not to fit a plug, I wouldn't.

Strange, if the oven is only 2.2kW. Well within the long term capacity of a 13A plug and its fuse.

 

[Bushy-Beard]

Is there a cooker switch? Cooker outlet?
If the manufacturer is telling you not to fit a plug, I wouldn't.
What is the current oven connected to

Is there a cooker switch? Cooker outlet?
If the manufacturer is telling you not to fit a plug, I wouldn't.
What is the current oven connected to?

Hi no I have just had my kitchen renewed and there is a plugged in built microwave and single oven going in there and as it said plug and play and the reason I brought it I had a oven switch put there but the guy that did it put a cooker switch with a single socket and said I can plug it in there but I said I won’t be able to access the switch to isolate it if needed other then at the board but he was threatening his country people on me and this that and the other also as he only chased the wall out deep enough for the 2.5 ring circuit to sit flush with the wall and now got to go around and re chase so the 2.5 can sit in the chases comfortably so I can plaster.
Can I leave the 6mm cable in situ and put a cooker outlet in place of the one that is there now and can I run 2.5 to a idolater switch where accessible?

 

[Bushy-Beard]

If you drop the mcb down to 20, (16 would do?)
you don’t have to change the 6mm cable.

Ensure it is rcd protected.

Hi thanks so I can connect the 6mm to a cooker outlet plate and then can I add a 2.5 to run off that to a fused switch spur ?

 

[littlespark]

Second pic. Can we have a photograph of it straight on? I’m worried the cable on left is rising away diagonally, which means it’s not in prescribed zones.

Also concerned all the shiny new faceplates have been fitted before plastering.

Ideally there shouldn’t be any isolation switches behind appliances.

 

[Bushy-Beard]

Second pic. Can we have a photograph of it straight on? I’m worried the cable on left is rising away diagonally, which means it’s not in prescribed zones.

Also concerned all the shiny new faceplates have been fitted before plastering.

Ideally there shouldn’t be any isolation switches behind appliances.

Hi yes of course I guess as they say you buy cheap you get what you pay for I don’t like it there either the top single socket is for the built in microwave

 

[Bushy-Beard]

Second pic. Can we have a photograph of it straight on? I’m worried the cable on left is rising away diagonally, which means it’s not in prescribed zones.

Also concerned all the shiny new faceplates have been fitted before plastering.

Ideally there shouldn’t be any isolation switches behind appliances.

 

[brianmoooore]

Microwave vertical chase contravenes the regs!
Needs to be vertically above one of the fittings.

 

[Bushy-Beard]

Second pic. Can we have a photograph of it straight on? I’m worried the cable on left is rising away diagonally, which means it’s not in prescribed zones.

Also concerned all the shiny new faceplates have been fitted before plastering.

Ideally there shouldn’t be any isolation switches behind appliances.

 

[Bushy-Beard]

Microwave vertical chase contravenes the regs!
Needs to be vertically above one of the fittings.

 

[Bushy-Beard]

Microwave vertical chase contravenes the regs!
Needs to be vertically above one of the fittings.

Oh where it goes up and along to socket behind tower from the iso switch should he have made a separate run from mcb for the microwave?

 

[brianmoooore]

The vertical chase is required to be in a 'safe zone ', which is anywhere within the width of any of the three fittings grouped together.
Electrically, it is probably OK, as long as the spur to the microwave is directly of the RFC ( assuming that's what feeds the three fittings), but to be compliant, the vertical chase needs to be moved to the right. Definite C2 on an EICR as it is.

 

[littlespark]

Prescribed zones are understood by all trades that the horizontal or vertical line from a switch or socket may have cables buried beneath the surface. Don’t drill holes there.

Anywhere else is safe to drill for fixings.

It’s a big surprise for a kitchen fitter to drill what he thinks is clear, only to find a live cable!

That’s why the chase mention contravenes the regs.

 

[Bushy-Beard]

The vertical chase is required to be in a 'safe zone ', which is anywhere within the width of any of the three fittings grouped together.
Electrically, it is probably OK, as long as the spur to the microwave is directly of the RFC ( assuming that's what feeds the three fittings), but to be compliant, the vertical chase needs to be moved to the right. Definite C2 on an EICR as it is.

I don’t believe it this bloke argued with me by text saying he has certs and he will bring them to show me lol when he should have done a professional job in the chasing and regs iv now got to re chase the walls deep enough to bury cables and found earths not on some back boxes and I am sure this isn’t right (pictured) I would have put 2esrth to switch and one to metal box ? Or am I wrong ? Lol
I only wanted to know how to get the oven wired in lol it’s amazing how many faults I found and by your good selfs I guess this is what happens when money is short appreciate your help

 

[Bushy-Beard]

If you drop the mcb down to 20, (16 would do?)
you don’t have to change the 6mm cable.

Ensure it is rcd protected.

Hi so if I fit a 16amp breaker keep the 6mm cable can I run a length of 6mm from the appliance socket that will be behind the tower appliance unit to a fused spur above worktop ? What size back box as 25 is really tight with the cable size
Thanks

 

[Midwest]

As the cooker is a fixed load, then presumably the manufacturers have designed the size of the flex accordingly.

Can’t see that mentioned here?

 

[Bushy-Beard]

As the cooker is a fixed load, then presumably the manufacturers have designed the size of the flex accordingly.

Can’t see that mentioned here?

I spoke to an electrician and he says a 6 mm cable should be run to a cooker connection plate off the existing red oven switch on wall now then run a switch to inside the tower unit above oven for the isolation switch?

 

[brianmoooore]

If the breaker is reduced to 16 or 20A, then the added cable can be 2.5mm2.
25mm box is for light switches. 35mm for 'normal' socket wiring and 47mm for anything involving 6mm2.