Discuss Water bonding - above or below? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

D

double0tim

Good Morning!

First up, I am not an electrician, but an enthusiastic DIYer. I've followed this forum for a while now, gleaning off much assistance, but I'm afraid I can't find an answer for this one. Here is some background first... Knowing the risks, I recently replaced two metal and ceramic CUs with a large shiny plastic one full of RCDs etc, instead of the paperclips in my old ceramic fuses. I knew this was notifiable and proceeded at my own risk, having taken advice from a qualified electrician I know through work.

Recently, I have decided to have a new conservatory built and the builder brought his electrician with him to assess the work required. I expected he would take on the work by simply installing a separate CU (for mains, lights and underfloor heating circuits) into spare slots in my Henley blocks - That way, he would only have to certify his own work and could take no responsibility for mine!

To my surprise, he was happy with my work, will cut into my existing CU and then certify the lot! However, he did look at my water bond and told me that the bond should be AFTER the stop cock. (To my mind as the whole lot is copper and full of water, what real difference does it make?)

Anyway, he has suggested I change it before he comes to do the work, probably because it's inaccessible and the length of free cable is too short to reach!

So, finally, my question is this: Can I leave the bond in place BEFORE the stop cock and add two bond clamps either side of the tap and effectively bypass it?
 
Where any bonding is looped from one part of a service to another the cable should be continuous, this would mean that you should crimp a length of cable onto your existing cable, bare the insulation, connect to the first clamp and continue on to the second.
However it would be much easier just to crimp on the an extension to the cable and move the first clamp.
The bonding should be after the stop cock so that it is guaranteed that the metal work inside the building is bonded.

Very surprised any professional electrician would certify your work, it is illegal and dangerous.
 
the spark might bo doing a eicr for the existing installation and an eic for his new work.
 
Good Morning!

First up, I am not an electrician, but an enthusiastic DIYer. I've followed this forum for a while now, gleaning off much assistance, but I'm afraid I can't find an answer for this one. Here is some background first... Knowing the risks, I recently replaced two metal and ceramic CUs with a large shiny plastic one full of RCDs etc, instead of the paperclips in my old ceramic fuses. I knew this was notifiable and proceeded at my own risk, having taken advice from a qualified electrician I know through work.

Recently, I have decided to have a new conservatory built and the builder brought his electrician with him to assess the work required. I expected he would take on the work by simply installing a separate CU (for mains, lights and underfloor heating circuits) into spare slots in my Henley blocks - That way, he would only have to certify his own work and could take no responsibility for mine!

To my surprise, he was happy with my work, will cut into my existing CU and then certify the lot! However, he did look at my water bond and told me that the bond should be AFTER the stop cock. (To my mind as the whole lot is copper and full of water, what real difference does it make?)

Anyway, he has suggested I change it before he comes to do the work, probably because it's inaccessible and the length of free cable is too short to reach!

So, finally, my question is this: Can I leave the bond in place BEFORE the stop cock and add two bond clamps either side of the tap and effectively bypass it?
go get an electrician in....
 
Thank you for that! I'll put on a new clamp as the old is quite manky, crimping the extension to the end of the old (cleaned) cable.

I have to admit , I was surprised when he said he'd do that... perhaps I misunderstood him, but he will certainly be using spare capacity in my CU and cutting into an existing circuit too. I figured putting in a new CU for three new circuits (as I have plenty of space) would give him a very definite certification 'boundary'! I'm just the customer on this occasion though!

Thanks again!

Tim
 
(To my mind as the whole lot is copper and full of water, what real difference does it make?)

If your asking that mate then you really shouldn't be changing consumers units !!!!
 
surely, if the sparks is doing all the work on the extension, he can include fitting a new clamp above the stop tap.
 

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