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Hi all I was doing some additions to the socket circuits on this install and came across this.
IMG_20170907_133246.jpg

Tried to remove cover to test circuits and put in 30mA rcbo's but the cover will not come off the cupboard is smaller than the board.
I've put a 30mA rcd in the meter box inline in the tails but that really only stop gap measure as it not great as if it trips it's outside.
Don't know why the kitchen fitter thought this would be okay.
Would this be a code 2 as you can't get to the terminals for maintenance purposes???????
 
it's only a code C2 if you are doing an EICR. in your situation it requires a hammer and/or a wrecking bar. after using said tools on the kitchen fitter, then attack the muppet's cupboard with them.

and why have you fitted a RCD when the board already has one?
 
Deffo C2 on an EICR ............... recently I did the same, then the client got the kitchen cupboard changed and I went back and did more tests. Then billed the customer for 2 extra hours.

Without taking the cover off the CU you could simply sit outside and fill in the EICR.

EDIT: PS thats an older style Crabtree - do RCBO's fit in their or are they the 2 module wide units only?
 
Code 3 IMO. I wouldn't call it potentially dangerous. I would have opted for cutting extra bits of the carcass away rather than an external RCD. I know you are saying it's a temp measure, but days turn to weeks and then to months sometimes, and before you know it the job does not get rectified.
 
C2 IMO. potential danger if a Electrical Trainee has made poor connections in the CU and you can't get the cover off to remedy.
 
This is what I found when I got the cover off the CU I refer to in post # 4

Myrtyr.jpg


One of my "observations" from the initial EICR were that there were too many untraceable circuits (this is a 1 bed flat) ............
 
15 minutes with a battery drill, 6mm bit, 3 rows of holes and a flat blade screwdriver would have fixed the cupboard, far quicker than fitting an RCD that will need removing.
battery drill my arse. recip. saw if lump hammer not available.
 
Yeah would have loved to attack the stupid kitchen cupboard but the client was not home and didn't want a boll#$%ing for destroying her cupboard without permission.
 
couldn'ttell from the OP's photo.i just hope his electrical skills are better than his photography skills. a David Bailey, he ain't. :p
I use the best in shaky hands crappy phone camera technique took years to master lol
Yeah would have loved to attack the stupid kitchen cupboard but the client was not home and didn't want a boll#$%ing for destroying her cupboard without permission.
 
Disagree ........... all sorts of horrors could be concealed below that cover ............. such as loose connections .............................

See what you are saying, on reflection I would FI it, which would result in an unsatisfactory outcome.
You could sort of extend the same loose terminal idea to every socket and switch that has not been inspected internally. If an EICR was being carried out then hopefully continuity testing would pick up the above, but there are situations where it may not such as conductors twisted together behind a socket front. End to end all good, r1r2 also good, but there could be numerous sockets with loose terminals..
 
I get lost with some of these threads,it starts off as a "some additions" subject and is dominated by disputes about coding the cons unit cover

It warrants no more than a FU off its coming code
 
Already own two multi tools but there is no way of cutting it that would release the cover other than cutting the while side of the unit out where the ccu and as I mentioned no client around to seek permission for kitchen cupboard demolition am going back to see the client tomorrow so I'll see what the outcome is when there home and the multi tool might come out on monday
 
Have you actually "tried" to remove the cover ?
edit (Sorry missed it in the first post)
You are on the job and know best,I know the starbreaker has deep sides on the cover but it looks to me as if it needs very little clearance to remove,maybe just enough for the cover to clear the Rcd,drag it sideways, then pull it off.
 
Have you actually "tried" to remove the cover ?
edit (Sorry missed it in the first post)
You are on the job and know best,I know the starbreaker has deep sides on the cover but it looks to me as if it needs very little clearance to remove,maybe just enough for the cover to clear the Rcd,drag it sideways, then pull it off.
Yeah sorry 10 mins plus trying to remove cover it will come of sideways and out but the cover is slightly bigger than the cupboard so wedges itself just inform of the ccu. Actually started to move whole cupboards trying to yank the cover out :eek:
 
What is it with kitchen fitters /chippys thinking its great to build something over a ccu or a cupboard so small you can't get to the earth and neutral terminals even if you can get the cover off.
Guess it's the manufacturer fault for making ccu's you have to get the lid off from lol
 

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