Discuss Anyone know anything about heating controls? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Google Honeywell t4360A this is what a frost stat looks like, you normally only have a frost stat if the boiler is located in a garage, loft,outhouse, etc if the boiler is located inside the house ie the kitchen I doubt you will have frost protection. Is the room thermostat located in the direct draft of the front door? Every time the front door opens it could be dropping the temperature a lot and kicking the thermostat in.
 
My house was built in 1832, and no cavity walls, been 10 year renovating it. So now double glazing, loft insulating is all I can really do.....After big gas bills, I fitted a condenser combi, with one way valve in each room, each valve is controlled by its own timed digi stat. With bathroom and landing being free flow radiators, to continue after run flow. Now each bedroom has its own temp setting as does the lounge. Main bedroom 22 deg, spare bedroom 16 deg and lounge 23 deg. During the day all bedrooms are off, and only lounge is on. After 9pm bedrooms can then call for heat. 12am all off, 6am all on, 8am lounge only etc....next good thing, if we lite our open fire lounge goes off, due to heat, and bedrooms come on at 9pm so still warm upstairs........has cut bill from £120 to £75 per month. Note there must be at least one radiator uncontrolled in the system to allow pump to circulate.
 
How much insulation in the loft?

Moving from a semi to a larger detached was always going to result in higher bills

Best bet would be to install the IT Salus 500 and you'll be able to monitor what your misses does with the heating controls when you are out and about!
 
If a frost stat is fitted it is very sensible to also have a pipe stat on the return to the boiler (set at ~20C) this prevents it from running for a long time on the frost stat.
 
Firstly the efficiency of that boiler isn't as good as modern alternatives.

But a few things to consider first before you go to any unnecessary expense are:-

Is the boiler installed in an unheated area, e.g garage or outhouse? the reason I ask is that the boiler may have a frost protection stat fitted. they are usually set at around 5 degrees C so it would be worth a check, if the temperature drops low (which it will this time of year) then the boiler will kick in on regular intervals when not in full use.

Try just turning down the TRV's in the rooms you do not use much, and keep the doors closed.

Check to see if the temperature of the heating from source (boiler) is not set too high. Many people have it wound right up causing scalding hot rads which is dangerous and totally unnecessary. The boiler will just constantly keep kicking in to maintain the flow temperature.

I noticed from your pictures that the hot water stat is set ok so are you timing your hot water, or is it regularly set to constant?


Got it in one there!!! ;)
 
My heating was too expensive and was also heating a tank of water through an indirect coil.
3 years ago I removed the tank and cylinder and made it all direct from a Main 24kw gas direct boiler (E-BLAg £90.)
So now I have 2 boilers and more control.
 
I'll one was 1985, 3 bed semi, large double rooms, has had 8 rads.

the new one is a 4 bed detached, 4 double rooms.

The old house, it had an electric shower, it's now off the tank.

uksparks,

I would seriously avoid fitting unnecessary fancy thermostats, based on the information you have given us so far.

There are so many different factors when trying to compare the cost of services between these two dwellings.

You never mentioned if the new dwelling had any other additional gas appliances such as oven, hob gas fire..

there are nearly twice the number of rads to heat, and based on this no doubt a much larger cubic area.

Don't go wasting your money by jumping the gun mate. That's my advice ;)

If you are serious about trying to reduce your gas bill then you need to spend time looking at what is running the cost up. Swapping your existing boiler for a new modern condensing one will reduce running cost would be a better solution than exchanging the trv's (in my view). But you would have to decide if throwing out what might be a good working boiler for a modern replacement would be more cost effective in the long run. ;)
 
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Hum, turn the heating down and installing more insulation?

As the debate moves forward, Murdoch has probably got it in a nutshell.

If the op is continuously heating a large 15 rad house that is poorly insulated (especially if the thermostat is set high) then he's gonna use a fortune in gas.

Short term turn down the stat, turn down the trvs in unused rooms, and set the timer so to reduce the amount of time heating is on.

Long term, better insulation.
 
I have fitted this system. It was done on a Listed stately home to provide zoning over two floors to avoid re-piping. The TRV's are battery operated. We had RF issue's (massive house). Honeywell sent an engineer and we had to relocate programmer to a new location. I certainly would not entertain it in your place, have you priced it up yet?

Is that based purely on the initial cost or were there other issues?
 
Thank tou for all your advice, I do very much appreciate it.

ill look into the costs of swapping the boiler but haven't got too much spare money to be really looking at changing it.

i think I'll turn the rafs down or off in unused rooms, turn the eating off at night, turn it down a peg in the day, set the water to only heat once per day rather than continuously. I'll also turn the heat down a bit on the boiler.

thanks for the videos on balancing the rads, I'll do that today.

the house is very well insulated, the only main difference within the house is that it's got hard floors everywhere downstairs opposed to carpet so that's going to make it feel colder too.

i think I just need to control myself a bit.

Happy new year everyone!
 
Thank tou for all your advice, I do very much appreciate it.

ill look into the costs of swapping the boiler but haven't got too much spare money to be really looking at changing it.

i think I'll turn the rafs down or off in unused rooms, turn the eating off at night, turn it down a peg in the day, set the water to only heat once per day rather than continuously. I'll also turn the heat down a bit on the boiler.

thanks for the videos on balancing the rads, I'll do that today.

the house is very well insulated, the only main difference within the house is that it's got hard floors everywhere downstairs opposed to carpet so that's going to make it feel colder too.

i think I just need to control myself a bit.

Happy new year everyone!

and buy her in doors a new pair of warm slippers!
 

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