Breaking Main Fuse Seal..

[Plonker 3]

They still wouldn't of had power if the dno had come because they had a fault!

why do u not under stand that???? I stopped looking for a fault after 45 mins of looking because they were been charged a lot of money, and 2 I couldn't be certain it was fixed till the supply was back.

When a house is pitch black other than torches and loads of stuff plugged in lamps in situ and appliances wired in it. You can't say just how long the fault will take to find.

I understand there was a fault, read my post and you will see I never mentioned anything about fault finding being overcharged.

10 hours without power compared to a maximum of 4 with DNO being informed is just stupid, now justify your logic there.

Then justify charging for a service that will almost certainly of been provided for FREE by the ONLY people allowed to change the fuse.

Once you can do this I will believe you didn't rip anyone off.

 

[Robert Turnbull]

I understand there was a fault, read my post and you will see I never mentioned anything about fault finding being overcharged.

10 hours without power compared to a maximum of 4 with DNO being informed is just stupid, now justify your logic there.

Then justify charging for a service that will almost certainly of been provided for FREE by the ONLY people allowed to change the fuse.

Once you can do this I will believe you didn't rip anyone off.

they paid no extra a fuse that's how I justify that if the dno had come with a fuse and fitted it. It would have gone pop!! If they had changed the fuse and left it out (which they wouldn't have) it still wouldn't have been on till the morning.

i found the fault in the morning. So they had called the dno then, they would of had to wait another 4 hours.

If I'd sat for 2-4 hours waiting for the dno at 11pm then obviously going to be a waste of my time, and their time. I think they were happy to go to bed and wake up to me knocking on the door and sorting it out.

 

[Plonker 3]

Why did you go fault finding and then not carry out a simple IR test which would have shown the faulty circuit, isolate faulty circuit, call DNO then return to find fault following day.

Why would you have to wait for the DNO to turn up?

 

[Robert Turnbull]

Why did you go fault finding and then not carry out a simple IR test which would have shown the faulty circuit, isolate faulty circuit, call DNO then return to find fault following day.

Why would you have to wait for the DNO to turn up?

I could have done, and maybe should have, and maybe would do in the future,
but as it was late and the customer was fairly old I though it would be easier and less disruption to not have to wait up. Also he had to work in the morning.

Looking back I just could have turned all the fuse boards off.

But all still equates to the same time on the job and the same bill. So please don't say I rip people off. If I changed a fuse for no charge that's my bad.

 

[MDJ]

My argument here with fixit was the fact he was giving out advise to a spark about cutting the thingy as he called it when he didn't have a clue what he was talking about, whether a fuse if pulled or not is down to the individual tradesman, not a flyby night giving out advise which they haven't done themselves, I don't like DIYers telling tradesmen what to do LMAO.

 

[Guest111]

Explain the difference between the voltage at the fuse and the voltage in a light fitting ?

If your worried about the lack of fuse
It only takes 3 milliamps to kill.
So by the time any rated breaker trips your 100 times over that.

But we talking amps not volts
Current kills

Anyway Don't touch the fuse
I've heard bad things happen

Well thats me educated then,the only question is if it takes only 3 milliamps to kill then why have 30 milliamp rcd's ?I think you will find it's actually 50 milliamps or above that can kill.I have put the figures up before but this time I cannot be bothered,seems like we have another Electrical Trainee amongst us.

 

[Sparkyphill]

Well thats me educated then,the only question is if it takes only 3 milliamps to kill then why have 30 milliamp rcd's ?I think you will find it's actually 50 milliamps or above that can kill.I have put the figures up before but this time I cannot be bothered,seems like we have another Electrical Trainee amongst us.

:iagree:

 

[Guest111]

:iagree:

tried to pm you,empty your inbox.

- - - Updated - - -

:iagree:

tried to pm you,empty your inbox.

 

[Knobhead]

:iagree:

:iagree:

 

[Robert Turnbull]

Well thats me educated then,the only question is if it takes only 3 milliamps to kill then why have 30 milliamp rcd's ?I think you will find it's actually 50 milliamps or above that can kill.I have put the figures up before but this time I cannot be bothered,seems like we have another Electrical Trainee amongst us.

:iagree:

Not every install as a rcd!

And I'm no Electrical Trainee, I did my years at college. And have 10 years on the tools.

30-50 would be a better number, I missed a 0 off. But my point was its not the voltage it's the current. And you shouldn't be any less worried about the supply in a install than the supply at the main fuse.

I'm not pretending I know everything

That's why I joined here. Plenty to learn from u guys.

 

[Guest111]

Not every install as a rcd!

And I'm no Electrical Trainee, I did my years at college. And have 10 years on the tools.

30-50 would be a better number, I missed a 0 off. But my point was its not the voltage it's the current. And you shouldn't be any less worried about the supply in a install than the supply at the main fuse.

I'm not pretending I know everything

That's why I joined here. Plenty to learn from u guys.

thats more like it, the thing is there are quite a few of us on here with over 3 times your level of experience,and due to the way things are going with this forum at the minute we are getting tired of the diy brigade coming on here pretending to be sparkies.just think for a minute before you post and it will help you to avoid getting leapt on by a bunch of irate sparkies,the way its going we tend to judge you by your posts not by what you say is your level of experience.

 

[Sparkyphill]

tried to pm you,empty your inbox.

- - - Updated - - -

tried to pm you,empty your inbox.

I've replied Phil have you not received it ?

 

[Knobhead]

Mr. Turnbull, I could recomend Wolfbane's excelent book. "Spoling for bagooners".

(Chelmsford 123)

 

[tidyboiler]

Have you got her telephone number? ........... maybe you can PM it to me????

Watching you.................. don't get blowing a gasket at your tender age dear.......... not before you've waved me off at the airport........:53:............. erm how do you get away with the shower sig then? do you have to go through Morrisons jetwash?

 

[Guest111]

I've replied Phil have you not received it ?

i get a message saying you need to empty your inbox

 

[Sparkyphill]

i get a message saying you need to empty your inbox

sorted

 

[Engineer54]

Well thats me educated then,the only question is if it takes only 3 milliamps to kill then why have 30 milliamp rcd's ?I think you will find it's actually 50 milliamps or above that can kill.I have put the figures up before but this time I cannot be bothered,seems like we have another Electrical Trainee amongst us.

30mA is officially recognised as being the threshold of heart fibrillation.

It depends very much on the actual circumstances a person is in, at the time of receiving a shock, as to what value of current will/can actually kill you. Obviously 10mA offers a better protection than 30mA, but can still have the ability to kill. US GFI breakers and protected outlets are all generally rated at 6mA at 120V/240V but are very prone to nuisance tripping

30mA has been chosen by Europe to all attentive purposes, as a compromise between providing a good degree/level of personal protection from electric shock and the all too familiar occurrence of nuisance tripping.

 

[Guest111]

30mA is officially recognised as being the threshold of heart fibrillation.

It depends very much on the actual circumstances a person is in, at the time of receiving a shock, as to what value of current will/can actually kill you. Obviously 10mA offers a better protection than 30mA, but can still have the ability to kill. US GFI breakers and protected outlets are all generally rated at 6mA at 120V/240V but are very prone to nuisance tripping

30mA has been chosen by Europe to all attentive purposes, as a compromise between providing a good degree/level of personal protection from electric shock and the all too familiar occurrence of nuisance tripping.

Exactly but it still isnt 3milliamps,which is what the op stated. lol

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[Robert Turnbull]

Sorry for the wrong number, I know I have a lot to learn still that's why I'm here.

The point was you can die changing a light just as easily as messing with a main fuse in the wrong circumstances.

 

[Robert Turnbull]

Mr. Turnbull, I could recomend Wolfbane's excelent book. "Spoling for bagooners".

(Chelmsford 123)

Will google this but not following