Cable routing inside a consumer unit

[davesparks]

The first thing to do is to switch off those mcbs one at a time, then turn off the CU main switch followed by the isolator.
Then check the main fuse rating if above 63 amp, disconnect the entire CU and take it back to screw fix.

I'd say the only thing to do is get an electrician in.

 

[timhoward]

@Andy Hames the board itself isn't bad at all in terms of neatness, but that isn't the be all and end all - there are a few things that you couldn't hope to know unless you've spent time studying the wiring regs.
There's a general principle that things are tested before they are energised, for good reasons.
I'd try and get a sparks on board to test what is there, and advise you on steps to finish this in a compliant way. There are people out there that don't mind DIY'ers doing the first fix.
Sorry I jumped to the wrong conclusion regarding that coil of wire. I was concerned for your safety.

 

[mainline]

I'd say the only thing to do is get an electrician in.

Get the money back first to repay the client

 

[Andy Hames]

Although it appears neat, there are a lot of mistakes would need rectified to meet regulation.

I don't doubt that, I do have a qualified electrician coming to do an inspection

I expect the 2.5 radial is still looping around the house live until it returns to the CU to complete the ring.

Is the 32 amp 2.5mm radial feeding a socket or sockets ?

It currently feeds one socket, it won't be extended until the other side is completed.

 

[mainline]

It currently feeds one socket, it won't be extended until the other side is completed.

It's fine on a 32 if only feeding one socket

 

[westward10]

So are you rewiring this property.

 

[mainline]

@davesparks you don't agree Dave ? why not

 

[Andy Hames]

@Andy Hames the board itself isn't bad at all in terms of neatness, but that isn't the be all and end all - there are a few things that you couldn't hope to know unless you've spent time studying the wiring regs.
There's a general principle that things are tested before they are energised, for good reasons.
I'd try and get a sparks on board to test what is there, and advise you on steps to finish this in a compliant way. There are people out there that don't mind DIY'ers doing the first fix.
Sorry I jumped to the wrong conclusion regarding that coil of wire. I was concerned for your safety.

No, no problem at all.

I do have a qualified electrician coming to check and advise and eventually do the EICR and certification, etc.

I'm fully aware there's a whole lot I don't know, but I have tried to learn and I've done some testing as best I can, for example the connected ring and the cooker radial I continuity and resistance tested each conductor as well as making sure there was no continuity between them before ever connecting them (as well as testing earth continuity between the cooker chassis and main earth).

I fully expected a fairly robust response but I'd rather ask than just carry on without doing so.

 

[westward10]

So are you being paid to rewire this property.

 

[DPG]

No, no problem at all.

I do have a qualified electrician coming to check and advise and eventually do the EICR and certification, etc.

I'm fully aware there's a whole lot I don't know, but I have tried to learn and I've done some testing as best I can, for example the connected ring and the cooker radial I continuity and resistance tested each conductor as well as making sure there was no continuity between them before ever connecting them (as well as testing earth continuity between the cooker chassis and main earth).

I fully expected a fairly robust response but I'd rather ask than just carry on without doing so.

It's not an EICR that needs completing.

You really didn't ought to be doing this work, especially if it is for someone else.

You need a calibrated MFT and the ability to use it and understand the results that it gives. You also need an understanding of the wiring regs and how to apply them

I'm all for competent DIY stuff, but this is beyond that.