Confused

[dazza1981]

No, but most of the time I sleeve the earth so they should be fine.

Do you not normally sleeve the earth wire when using T+E then mate ???

 

[imago]

Yes lads, I'm joking. I use either the small wago boxes, line light JBs or the slim choc box type depending on what's best at the time.

It was tongue in cheek because a lot of people get wound up by what they call Electrical Trainee. Then they seem to go round the forum playing Billy big balls assuming that they are the only ones with a clue.

 

[specs]

All of my rewires are neutrals at switches, you can't go wrong, multiple cables! use a deeper box/ box extension+ wago /line connectors + line/wago j'boxes dependant on application. One light to install no problem, multiple lights, no problem, multiple switching, no problem, I use 1.5 t&e for line into box from cu and 1.0 t&e for supply to lights from sw, ( easily identifiable) and loop from sw to sw in 1.5 t&e, , 3 plate from rose is dead to me now that connectors have improved to such a level. I look forward to further forward thinking in the world of electrical connectors. I also look forward to a time when 9kw boilers and 6/7 kw hobs can be connected using bell wire as a supply cable. Probably not in my lifetime but the rate at which LED technology is improving, I feel sure it will come.

 

[davesparks]

No matter how much technology improves 9KW will still be 9KW!

Do you include a fuse at each reduction from 1.5 to 1.0? Only there's this regulation that requires a fuse at each reduction in cable current carrying capacity.

Mixing cable sizes throughout a circuit like that is bad practice in my opinion. Ok if you've got a long run of lights and you've upped the cable at the start for volt drop and then drop the size as you go along the circuit that makes sense.

 

[SJD]

... I use 1.5 t&e for line into box from cu and 1.0 t&e for supply to lights from sw, ( easily identifiable) and loop from sw to sw in 1.5 t&e, ...

Given that so many decorative lights nowadays have minimal room in the housing for connections, I can see this perhaps makes sense.

For example, I just installed for someone a couple of B&Q bathroom lights which came with the L, N and E exiting the top as singles with some heat-resistant sleeving around each. They were supplied with a 4-way choc bloc and instructions "to wrap a few turns of insulation tape around it" before pushing it into the ceiling!

I have to say I try to avoid mixing cable sizes in a screw terminal, the thinner cable tends not to be gripped so tightly, but maybe 1.0 and 1.5mm2 is OK.

 

[Guest111]

IIRC the octopus was a preformed wiring system, there was another which used a box about 10" square for wiring the lights,this was basically an overgrown jb with plenty of terminals in,they were used a lot in our area on 1970's council houses and the downstairs lights one was always located at the top of the stairs and the upstairs was just inside the loft hatch.I cant for the life of me remember but I think they were made by henley or BICC.

 

[specs]

Given that so many decorative lights nowadays have minimal room in the housing for connections, I can see this perhaps makes sense.



I have to say I try to avoid mixing cable sizes in a screw terminal, the thinner cable tends not to be gripped so tightly, but maybe 1.0 and 1.5mm2 is OK.

cable sizes in switch are not mixed in same screw terminal. 1.5 in, 1.0 out.

 

[specs]

No matter how much technology improves 9KW will still be 9KW!

Do you include a fuse at each reduction from 1.5 to 1.0? Only there's this regulation that requires a fuse at each reduction in cable current carrying capacity.

Mixing cable sizes throughout a circuit like that is bad practice in my opinion. Ok if you've got a long run of lights and you've upped the cable at the start for volt drop and then drop the size as you go along the circuit that makes sense.

I wil get bck to this when I get hme keybod not respodig.

 

[specs]

No matter how much technology improves 9KW will still be 9KW!


Mixing cable sizes throughout a circuit like that is bad practice in my opinion. Ok if you've got a long run of lights and you've upped the cable at the start for volt drop and then drop the size as you go along the circuit that makes sense.

I run 1.5 to each sw in a room from the cu (mcb 6amp) I then run a max of 20 down lighters on that circuit, ie 6 lamps in 1 room 6 in the next and 8 in the last room ( these are all LEDs ) ( we don't fit anything else).Total load 100 watts. I could run each circuit in bell wire (well near enough ) but i don't, because that would be what I consider bad practice.

 

[specs]

No matter how much technology improves 9KW will still be 9KW!

Do you include a fuse at each reduction from 1.5 to 1.0? Only there's this regulation that requires a fuse at each reduction in cable current carrying capacity.
.

Do you include a fuse at every rose that you install or do you run your l/holders in 1.00mm or 1.5 flex ( inc down lighters ) I think not