Discuss Consumer unit change - How do you do it? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I change a domestic consumer unit perhaps once per month.
I do some simple tests on the pre works visit.. global IR, few pictures, check Main bonding. This means I have an idea if any extra work may be required which I mention in the quote.
When I am carrying out the actual CU change I do the dead tests after I have removed the existing CU and just have all the cables poking out of the wall (or into the shell of the new CU). It doesn't make any sense to terminate them all neatly and then take them out again for the dead tests. Live tests at the end when all is finished.
I don't think you need to carry out an EICR with every board change. Just a good pre works visit. On occasion I may suggest an EICR if the house looks like it needs it. This would then be cheaper than a normal EICR as some of the work is duplicated with CU change.

Likewise for me with testing before taking the old CU came off the wall; used to do that on another day, before changing the CU.

Don't think I would of much domestic work, charging for an EICR, then doing the CU change as an additional quotation.
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Neat & Tidy but no dead testing ...

There was no evidence of any testing. Haven't we seen this lot before?
 
Likewise for me with testing before taking the old CU came off the wall; used to do that on another day, before changing the CU.

Don't think I would of much domestic work, charging for an EICR, then doing the CU change as an additional quotation.
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There was no evidence of any testing. Haven't we seen this lot before?

yes , it’s the 1 day re-wire clan from Scotland
 
put your quote in For a simple board change and offer to knock 50% the eicr when you do the consumer unit and all remedial work...

if they opt not to do the board then you just invoice for the eicr and leave it at that
thoughts ?
Thinking, how can you invoice for an EICR if all you're doing is quoting for a CU change.....and they're not accepting?
 
You do IR tests with all the cpcs isolated from each other and the earthing conductor? I test as I am connecting them.
A very good point.

But hopefully he temporarily joined them up (and to incoming earth) for the IR test, even a temporary winding of thin wire round the lot will do as it is not needing the low ohm R2 style of measurement demanding good connections.
 
2 seperate job
Maybe...if you quote for an EICR
but you're only quoting for a CU change....unless agreed, they wont (and shouldn't) pay for a prior test unless they ask for one.
If you include the test in the quote and it's accepted, you've got the job anyway, all in.
 
I cost in a morning or afternoon, a week or so before the board change, to do pre-board change inspection and test: earthing, bonding, IR, ring continuity, check for borrowed neutrals, and either R1+R2 or Zs on every circuit. When I give my quote, I explain (in writing) that the quote is subject to the existing circuits meeting the minimum requirements of the Regs; if it's something I can quickly and easily fix during the pre-change checks I'm happy to do so. If there is plenty wrong, then I reschedule the board change for further into the future, and spend the day I booked for the board change doing fault-finding and rectification (either as a quote, but usually on an hourly rate). This has happened about 2 or 3 times, out of about 30 board changes, and the client has always been grateful for sorting things out and doing stuff properly.

In theory, if I do the checks and there's a lot to sort out which the client doesn't want to pay for, the client can cancel the board change and doesn't owe me anything. This has never happened though.

I don't like surprises. When I strip out an old board, I want to make sure, as best I can, that the day will go smoothly. :)
 
I cost in a morning or afternoon, a week or so before the board change, to do pre-board change inspection and test: earthing, bonding, IR, ring continuity, check for borrowed neutrals, and either R1+R2 or Zs on every circuit. When I give my quote, I explain (in writing) that the quote is subject to the existing circuits meeting the minimum requirements of the Regs; if it's something I can quickly and easily fix during the pre-change checks I'm happy to do so. If there is plenty wrong, then I reschedule the board change for further into the future, and spend the day I booked for the board change doing fault-finding and rectification (either as a quote, but usually on an hourly rate). This has happened about 2 or 3 times, out of about 30 board changes, and the client has always been grateful for sorting things out and doing stuff properly.

In theory, if I do the checks and there's a lot to sort out which the client doesn't want to pay for, the client can cancel the board change and doesn't owe me anything. This has never happened though.

I don't like surprises. When I strip out an old board, I want to make sure, as best I can, that the day will go smoothly. :)
Spot on in my opinion that’s what I do. I don’t charge full whack to do an EICR and then say you need your consumer unit changed and then charge for that. In some cases you already know after visually inspecting property and board cover off that it needs upgrading. So I would do a small fee for pre inspection of property and then set an amount of £350 approximate based on standard property with 6/7 circuits for board change. I will inform customer that should I find any faults after board change I will charge per hour for fault finding. I don’t like the fact that ppl charge £150/£300 for EICR then charge another £350 for board change when you already know that the property needs upgrading prior to EICR
 
You do IR tests with all the cpcs isolated from each other and the earthing conductor? I test as I am connecting them.
Yes, you're right Westward, I had to think for a moment. The back of the new board would be up, with all the cables coming into the new unit. Then, I would do individual IR tests just before I connect up the earths to the earth bar.
 
Agree
People who do mains changes with impact drivers need there hands chopping off

done lot of work on social housing and number of times I go in and try to torque tighten all existing terminals but only to find been install by some tool with a impact and all screws rounded off
My number 1 thing that grinds my gears!
Yesssss!!! Same here I’m testing a lot and the amount of terminals which are rounded, tightened by Arnold Schwarzenegger is unbelievable even the fuse board covers grips my ---- use your hand tools so you can feel the tension simple
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Yesssss!!! Same here I’m testing a lot and the amount of terminals which are rounded, tightened by Arnold Schwarzenegger is unbelievable even the fuse board covers grips my ---- use your hand tools so you can feel the tension simple
Another pet hate is the earths twisted together in single sleeving why like? Sleeve them individually easy solution is to do end to end at socket but I like the fuse board lol
 
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Yes, you're right Westward, I had to think for a moment. The back of the new board would be up, with all the cables coming into the new unit. Then, I would do individual IR tests just before I connect up the earths to the earth bar.
You should connect the cpcs first.
 
If people are using 18v impact drivers to tighten down terminal screws something went wrong with the trade...
Exactly I’m normally a calm guy but some of the boards I’ve had to test recently really wind me up. And I never had a problem 7 years ago it’s only the recently installed boards which seem to be glued shut
 
I don't approve of his method but to be fair he seemed well in control of the driver and didn't seem to over do the terminals.
 
I don't approve of his method but to be fair he seemed well in control of the driver and didn't seem to over do the terminals.
I suppose if you have an understanding of power tools then it’s fine one of my best mates does it with impact and I cringe every time I see/hear him at the consumer but to be fair he understands the torque it’s the ones who don’t have knowledge/experience that cause the problems anyhow I don’t like power tools at consumer
 
i run them down with a cheap 4V battery driver with torque settings, then hand tighten to correct tightness.
 

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