First house, want to retrofit Underfloor Heating. Many Questions

[OnlyHumanHere]

Hi there,


So first things first, just bought myself my first house . 1920's build in Wiltshire. Should have the keys to it next week, can't wait.


Floor plan




First problem is, no gas mains in the village. This means it currently has an immersion heater to supply hot water , storage heaters for heat and the oven/hob connected to gas bottles stored outside on the side of the house.


So, after doing a bit of research and planning with my wife, we want to scrap the storage heaters and go for water UFH with a free floating 8mm laminate flooring Something on the lines of this . Looking around, I think prowarm seem to do a good job with supplying all the parts we need, being bought from Theunderfloorheatingstore (regarded fairly highly online and seemed very helpful on the phone).


Now, my main concern is what to do with the heating element. I've spoken to a few specialists and I've been told either keep the immersion heater for the sink/bath water and get something like a 'Slim Jim' electric boiler for the UFH. Obviously the guy that recommended that was the website that sells it. However, again it's reviewed rather well and it'd be nice to keep all the product coming from one place.


Another plumber I spoke to recommended to scrap the immersion heater and get a combi boiler. He did say that if it was him, he would probably look at LPG combi boilers over an electric boiler for the long term cost saving (did a bit of research and yes, lpg is much cheaper than electric). However, when it comes to boilers, I'm completely lost as to what I need.


So my questions are...


* Keep the immersion tank or scrap it?
* Get an LPG combi boiler, electric combi boiler or just a stand along boiler for the UFH and keep the immersion tank.
* If I was to take the immersion tank out, should I put the new boiler in it's place? If so, would I need 1 or 2 UFH manifolds for each floor?
* I was thinking about putting the whole system (manifold and boiler) under the stairs, would that make sense?
* Apart from the kitchen (which is tiled) and the reception (which is original parquet), the rest of the house is carpeted, is it relatively straight forward to just rip the carpet up, lay down the floating floor, insert piping, cover and just throw the laminate on top?
* One guy I spoke to said I would probably need to manifolds, 1 for each floor. Is that right?
* rippiing up the Parquet and tiles in the kitchen, is there anything I should know before doing so?


I plan to try and get most the humping and dumping, laying the insulation for the piping, the piping and laminating myself, however I will be getting professional help for the installation and testing of the equipment.




Final Question, with multizone UFH...is the NEST thermostat (Gen 2) still a good option?






I hope I haven't made things too complicated.












TL: DR....Want to install UFH, in the UK, what is a recommended brand? Should I scrap my Immersion heater for an electric or LPG combi heater? Is it all worth it?

 

[davesparks]

I'd go for a gas combi boiler over the electric option.
Boiler location will depend on where the flue, discharge, condensate and gas supply can be sensibly located. There are rules about clear access required in front of the boiler.
As far as insulation goes the more of the floor you can dig out and fill with insulation the better, but you'll need to get professional help to know what can or can't be done without affecting damp proofing etc etc

 

[Darkwood]

Welcome to the forum.
I approved your post for general forum although you maybe given access to the DIY section and thread relocated when admin is next on line unless you can tell us your Electrical background and qualifications.

Please note when installing underfloor heating, it will require a series of tests at different stages of the install, not doing this with make the warranty invalid to the company you sourced it from and also to the Electrician who connects and signs it off.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Air source heat pump could be worth considering.

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

Welcome to the forum.
I approved your post for general forum although you maybe given access to the DIY section and thread relocated when admin is next on line unless you can tell us your Electrical background and qualifications.

Please note when installing underfloor heating, it will require a series of tests at different stages of the install, not doing this with make the warranty invalid to the company you sourced it from and also to the Electrician who connects and signs it off.

Ye, I'm aware it all needs to be certified. I plan to get most of the stuff in position and fitted, then get someone in the local area to wire it all up and test it all. Multizoned UFH requires a of wiring from thermostats to actuators on the manifold etc...well beyond my expertise.

 

[telectrix]

or conside electric ufh as opposed to wet.

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

Air source heat pump could be worth considering.

As far as I'm aware, it's well out of my price range though. Where as replacing my immersion heater with a new combi boiler should/could be reletively easy as the pipes and wiring as already in place.

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

I'd go for a gas combi boiler over the electric option.
Boiler location will depend on where the flue, discharge, condensate and gas supply can be sensibly located. There are rules about clear access required in front of the boiler.
As far as insulation goes the more of the floor you can dig out and fill with insulation the better, but you'll need to get professional help to know what can or can't be done without affecting damp proofing etc etc

There's no mains gas in the village So that's out of the question unfortunately. That's why it's a ---- up between 'maybe' LPG combi or Electric combi.

I was looking at this stuff as the insulation below the piping it's nice and thick.

My main concern is the upstairs. until i have the keys, i have no idea what is under the carpet, it's a loft conversion as the building used to be a single floor school, I'm guessing it's just joists, which will probably throw a spanner in the works with regards to keeping things simple.

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

or conside electric ufh as opposed to wet.

I've looked into that option but the problem is, from what I've been told, it's far more expensive to keep the house warm. My wife works at home and we have a 5 month old.

 

[davesparks]

Welcome to the forum.
I approved your post for general forum although you maybe given access to the DIY section and thread relocated when admin is next on line unless you can tell us your Electrical background and qualifications.

Please note when installing underfloor heating, it will require a series of tests at different stages of the install, not doing this with make the warranty invalid to the company you sourced it from and also to the Electrician who connects and signs it off.

I've never yet seen plumbers test underfloor heating other than filling it up and seeing where the water ****es out. What tests are you thinking of

 

[LankyWill]

Im with dave, put in a LPG combi boiler the position has varying factors as you cant vent onto a neighbouring property. I would scrap actuators and just use a zone valve for a simple setup. Keep the immersion just as a safety net really and fit a valve to divert the water from the combi to the immersion, or fit a system boiler.

 

[davesparks]

There's no mains gas in the village So that's out of the question unfortunately. That's why it's a ---- up between 'maybe' LPG combi or Electric combi.

I was looking at this stuff as the insulation below the piping it's nice and thick.

My main concern is the upstairs. until i have the keys, i have no idea what is under the carpet, it's a loft conversion as the building used to be a single floor school, I'm guessing it's just joists, which will probably throw a spanner in the works with regards to keeping things simple.

If your comment about lpg was in response to me then all I can say is that LPG is gas!

Under the carpet will be wooden floor on joists. You can buy products designed for installing underfloor in such situations, but as ever you need to put lots of insulation in there

Those panels you've linked to are the kind of thing but you'll need a good depth of insulation under them!

 

[davesparks]

Im with dave, put in a LPG combi boiler the position has varying factors as you cant vent onto a neighbouring property. I would scrap actuators and just use a zone valve for a simple setup. Keep the immersion just as a safety net really and fit a valve to divert the water from the combi to the immersion, or fit a system boiler.

How on earth would they keep an immersion with a combi?

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

If your comment about lpg was in response to me then all I can say is that LPG is gas!

Under the carpet will be wooden floor on joists. You can buy products designed for installing underfloor in such situations, but as ever you need to put lots of insulation in there

Those panels you've linked to are the kind of thing but you'll need a good depth of insulation under them!

Got ya, apologies for the confusion.

Yea, I've seen the joist solution, looks relatively straightforward (famous last words).

 

[Darkwood]

I've never yet seen plumbers test underfloor heating other than filling it up and seeing where the water ****es out. What tests are you thinking of

My Bad scanned the post to approve it, had UFH electric in my head as I just faulted some today lol ...NTS must read prorperly before quoting.

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

I've never yet seen plumbers test underfloor heating other than filling it up and seeing where the water ****es out. What tests are you thinking of

Point taken, however I will be asking them in their forums the same question so I get a good set of responses I can use to make my judgement well advised

 

[LankyWill]

you could pipe a separate diverter/ 2port valve from the standard system to the immersion, it would have to be manually done. Bit heath robinson but could get you out a jam.

 

[davesparks]

you could pipe a separate diverter/ 2port valve from the standard system to the immersion, it would have to be manually done. Bit heath robinson but could get you out a jam.

Do you mean install a diverted in the DHW pipework from the combi and the outlet pipe of the cylinder? That's going to bring a whole host of issues for compliance with water regs I think!

 

[telectrix]

I've looked into that option but the problem is, from what I've been told, it's far more expensive to keep the house warm. My wife works at home and we have a 5 month old.

our government is keen to erect these eyesore windmills al over the land and seascape. see if they'll stick a couple up in your back garden. free leccy for your heating.

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

our government is keen to erect these eyesore windmills al over the land and seascape. see if they'll stick a couple up in your back garden. free leccy for your heating.

I personally don't mind them, thankfully though, we don't have a garden...annoyingly, we're in a preservation area and have been told we're not allowed to install solar panels on our South facing roof....madness.

 

[Midwest]

With tin hat. OP I would suggest you contact one of the various companies that offer wet UFH systems and ask their advice and see what could be achieved. UFH function slightly differently to wall hung heating systems, at a lower constant heat. You will need adequate insulation installed for it to be economical. Digging up concrete floors, to allow for insulation/pipe & screed will not be cheap, and certainly disruptive. It might be attractive as a more modern alternative, but perhaps wall hung might be more reasonably priced. But it's your money.

 

[plugsandsparks]

Heating water using an electric boiler for UFH makes no sense to me, might as well use electric underfloor heating, however I am with the majority here and use LPG with a decent sized tank from Flogas or Calor, you could also use a oil fired boiler and have a tank outside if you have the space. You could either go combi or system boiler and retain a cylinder but if you do, go for an unvented cylinder they are miles better and don't require a header tank in the loft. If you go wet UFH, then I would have one manifold for living rooms downstairs and one manifold for bedrooms and a separate manifold for bathrooms. There are loads of options here depending on budget, how long you intend to stay there and how much disruption you can cope with. Get a couple of heating firms in and get them to recommend a solution / options. I am sure they will be OK with you doing some grunt work...

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

Heating water using an electric boiler for UFH makes no sense to me, might as well use electric underfloor heating, however I am with the majority here and use LPG with a decent sized tank from Flogas or Calor, you could also use a oil fired boiler and have a tank outside if you have the space. You could either go combi or system boiler and retain a cylinder but if you do, go for an unvented cylinder they are miles better and don't require a header tank in the loft. If you go wet UFH, then I would have one manifold for living rooms downstairs and one manifold for bedrooms and a separate manifold for bathrooms. There are loads of options here depending on budget, how long you intend to stay there and how much disruption you can cope with. Get a couple of heating firms in and get them to recommend a solution / options. I am sure they will be OK with you doing some grunt work...

We're in no rush to move in to be honest...I'm planning to move in after about 2 months...which is the reason why I'm happy to try my best with a lot of the work....I have time for mistakes and also don't need to worry about living in a workshop.


Is there a reason why you recommend a cylinder? Isn't just a combi on it's own with a heat on demand system better? (remember I've no idea what I'm talking about so if that didn't make sense please tell me....it kind of made sense to me though haha).

We plan to make this our forever home...it's not going to be an investment we plan to sell after doing up so we're happy to throw money in it if it makes our lives more comfortable for longer.

Unvented cylinders can last 30 years? am i right?

Don't have space outside for an oil tank...kind of just have space for gas bottles (like 100cm in height).

Our kitch oven/hop is connected to gas bottles outside but I'm not sure what kind of gas it is.

I'd say our budget...including boiler, ufh, laminate flooring is about £10k...give or take a bit.

 

[davesparks]

2months isn't long enough to do the job properly, you're talking about removing all of the floors, insulating and relating them!
If you're going to insulate properly then you'll be putting a good 6/8" of decent insulation down, not just those daft 1" thick panels.

 

[Midwest]

We're in no rush to move in to be honest...I'm planning to move in after about 2 months...

I'd say our budget...including boiler, ufh, laminate flooring is about £10k...give or take a bit.

Best allow about 2k as well for some dynamite to excavate the existing floors. Seriously get some professional advice about feasibility before getting too excited about wet ufh.

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

2months isn't long enough to do the job properly, you're talking about removing all of the floors, insulating and relating them!
If you're going to insulate properly then you'll be putting a good 6/8" of decent insulation down, not just those daft 1" thick panels.

wait what? 2 months? you've got to be kidding!

How long does it take to rip carpet up and lay down some insulation? It's floating UFH, no requirement for screed. there's surely no need for the best part of a foot of insulation.

 

[Midwest]

wait what? 2 months? you've got to be kidding!

How long does it take to rip carpet up and lay down some insulation? It's floating UFH, no requirement for screed. there's surely no need for the best part of a foot of insulation.

You did say existing flooring as well as suspended. Have butchers here for; Dry Systems | John Guest Speedfit - Underfloor Heating and online estimator

 

[Midwest]

What exactly, is the construction of your ground floor and upper floors?

 

[davesparks]

wait what? 2 months? you've got to be kidding!

How long does it take to rip carpet up and lay down some insulation? It's floating UFH, no requirement for screed. there's surely no need for the best part of a foot of insulation.

Sorry, I thought you'd said you wanted to do the job properly as its a house you intend to live in for a long time?
6" is half a foot, not the best part of it.
Laying ufh on top of a 1920's solid floor construction is going to waste the vast majority of the heat energy in warming up the mass of solid floor under it. If it's a hollow wooden floor construction then it hasn't got a hope in hells chance of heating anything without a lot of insulation being installed under the floor!
Years ago a I worked on one where they laid ufh into an existing wooden ground floor with just a 4" layer of fibreglass between the joists. When it was all done you could just about feel a slightly warmer patch directly above each pipe and the room was freezing.

You need a good thick insulation layer of you want to actually hear the rooms, preferably with the pipes buried in a screed on top of it to create a big thermal store.

 

[plugsandsparks]

We're in no rush to move in to be honest...I'm planning to move in after about 2 months...which is the reason why I'm happy to try my best with a lot of the work....I have time for mistakes and also don't need to worry about living in a workshop.


Is there a reason why you recommend a cylinder? Isn't just a combi on it's own with a heat on demand system better? (remember I've no idea what I'm talking about so if that didn't make sense please tell me....it kind of made sense to me though haha).

We plan to make this our forever home...it's not going to be an investment we plan to sell after doing up so we're happy to throw money in it if it makes our lives more comfortable for longer.

Unvented cylinders can last 30 years? am i right?

Don't have space outside for an oil tank...kind of just have space for gas bottles (like 100cm in height).

Our kitch oven/hop is connected to gas bottles outside but I'm not sure what kind of gas it is.

I'd say our budget...including boiler, ufh, laminate flooring is about £10k...give or take a bit.

Combi's are great for small houses and few occupants (preferably men, lol) A combi has to heat water instantaneously and as the water demand grows, i.e. if there are two demands for hot water, shower and say washing up, flow will be reduced to keep the temp up. If you say start a family and have all girls (like me) then a large tank unvented of course is a god send, the boiler runs in whisper mode to heat up the tank rather than full turbo mode and as such, such is the laws of physics, it works out cheaper and better. I have two tanks, one for me and one for the girls so I don't have to negotiate who has a bath / shower when etc etc.

As for gas bottles...... mmmmm, worth a chat to flogas just to see if a proper tank is feasible, there are certain minimum distances and the like but it may be doable, who knows.

 

[Midwest]

There are some systems davesparks, where aluminium spreader plates are use transmit the heat to the room above. No expert but as they are probably designed for rooms above the ground floor, i.e. bedrooms, guess they do not need the same amount of heat transfer as ground floor rooms. Op, the screed is heated up by the ufh and acts as the heat source. If the screed is not deep enough, and doesn't have sufficient insulation below, your wasting your time.

 

[davesparks]

There are some systems davesparks, where aluminium spreader plates are use transmit the heat to the room above. No expert but as they are probably designed for rooms above the ground floor, i.e. bedrooms, guess they do not need the same amount of heat transfer as ground floor rooms. Op, the screed is heated up by the ufh and acts as the heat source. If the screed is not deep enough, and doesn't have sufficient insulation below, your wasting your time.

That's exactly the system they used in the ground floor I mentioned, aluminium sheets which span the joists with channels in to hold the pipes. With only a few inches of fibreglass under it it was useless. What it needed was a good thick layer of celotex/kingspan.

First floor is going to be less of a problem I guess, but in a 1920s house there is likely to still be a hell of a drought under the floors to take a lot of the heat away

 

[Midwest]

First floor is going to be less of a problem I guess, but in a 1920s house there is likely to still be a hell of a drought under the floors to take a lot of the heat away

Yep seal up the floors and hang some rads IMO!

 

[rolyberkin]

I have developed houses and have used all the heating methods you describe. In the house you describe/show I would not install under floor heating either electric or water, electric is just far too expensive to run as a primary source and water is too much of a faff to retrofit. To do it properly you will have to take out all the floors downstairs to about 250mm minimum, this may sound easy but have you considered how much you have to dig out and how much waste you have to get rid of at cost? Your new house will be wrecked and look like a very grubby building site, the only way you will get the floors out is with a hydraulic kango!! you need to put in minimum of 100mm minimum insulation below, you will need to re screed floors min 50mm but probably more like 75mm (which will take an age to dry), also whatever anyone says retrofitting underfloor upstairs will not be viable so you will still need over sized rads. I cannot over estimate how bad an idea retrofitting UFH is to an old house, do not do it! If you were building a new house yes then this would be a good idea. Personally in that house I would either fit an electric boiler, air source heat pump, LPG tank and gas boiler to fit standard rads and a cylinder. If it was me with your budget I would be going with either an air source heat pump with large rads and a suitable cylinder or large LPG tank with gas boiler (You will find LPG 47kg tanks will be too expensive to use for heating and or heated water! Best of luck.

 

[PEG]

Sound advice above^ Your LPG bottles are taller than the 1m you mentioned...and you will go through them in short order.

I have 3 separate friends,whose properties are on LPG for DHW and CH,,,and their Bahco adjustable stays outside,but never gets rusty:28:

As for the retro-fit wet UFH,you WILL require at least 100mm of rigid board insulation under,and either a screed layer,for set-back,or spreader plates,for emanating your heat input.

You will also need to be anally obsessive to the point of a fanatic,in sorting ALL your other insulating requirements,drafts,and thermal sinks.

Wet UFH can be successful. But ONLY when in conjunction with attention to all the other aspects of your building.

To ignore the other thermal "leaks",can be both expensive and disappointing,and if you are tied to LPG,the first problem will far out-way the second!

...But i LOVE,"her-who-must-be-obeyed"s hat :icon6:

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

There are some systems davesparks, where aluminium spreader plates are use transmit the heat to the room above. No expert but as they are probably designed for rooms above the ground floor, i.e. bedrooms, guess they do not need the same amount of heat transfer as ground floor rooms. Op, the screed is heated up by the ufh and acts as the heat source. If the screed is not deep enough, and doesn't have sufficient insulation below, your wasting your time.

With with a floating floor, I'm told by many that there's absolutely no requirement for screed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BpH65IsNy0

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

Sound advice above^ Your LPG bottles are taller than the 1m you mentioned...and you will go through them in short order.

I have 3 separate friends,whose properties are on LPG for DHW and CH,,,and their Bahco adjustable stays outside,but never gets rusty:28:

As for the retro-fit wet UFH,you WILL require at least 100mm of rigid board insulation under,and either a screed layer,for set-back,or spreader plates,for emanating your heat input.

You will also need to be anally obsessive to the point of a fanatic,in sorting ALL your other insulating requirements,drafts,and thermal sinks.

Wet UFH can be successful. But ONLY when in conjunction with attention to all the other aspects of your building.

To ignore the other thermal "leaks",can be both expensive and disappointing,and if you are tied to LPG,the first problem will far out-way the second!

...But i LOVE,"her-who-must-be-obeyed"s hat :icon6:

Sound advice.

I guess what I need to do is to get a few specialists in and actually go from there.

I do intent to fit a multifuel burner in the living room, which should make things toasty.

Haha, she's a big fan of hats.

 

[telectrix]

Sound advice.

I guess what I need to do is to get a few specialists in and actually go from there.

I do intent to fit a multifuel burner in the living room, which should make things toasty.

Haha, she's a big fan of hats.

IMO, that's a better option. get a multi-fuel jobby with back boiler, then run rads off it.

 

[Midwest]

Sound advice.

I guess what I need to do is to get a few specialists in and actually go from there.

Think that's a good idea, and with due respect to my learned colleagues here, getting processional advice on for heating & hot water, in your particular situation, is perhaps the best way forward.

 

[OnlyHumanHere]

IMO, that's a better option. get a multi-fuel jobby with back boiler, then run rads off it.

Sadly we don't plan to use it as a daily...more of a cetre piece when we have guests over.

I don't know what it is, i just really hate rediators, they take up space, are complete eyesores and far from efficient. This is why it's hard for me to throw my plans for ufh out and fit radiators. My wife's from South Korea, where radiators just don't exist, when she first came to the uk 7 years ago, she didn't realise they were actually used for anything more than vintage designing, lol. Visiting her family so many times, i've been spoiled experiencing really efficient ufh, it's so nice on the feet.

 

[rolyberkin]

With with a floating floor, I'm told by many that there's absolutely no requirement for screed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BpH65IsNy0

UFH is good when you are well insulated from below and are warming a large slab of screed to work as a thermal store at low heat, it is good, I have two rooms where I have it.

I haven't used this stuff but it will add a significant depth to your existing floors, this will have to go all through the house or you will have steps to trip up and down. Self-leveling compound isn't really self-leveling, you will have to get someone in to do it properly it has to be levelled properly using a float, it is expensive to buy and to level.

To fit this stuff properly you will have to take off all your skirting boards and architrave and refit all of your doors. there is not much of a thermal store in a few cm's of compound so in effect you will be using it like a radiator in any case. To fit a wet central heating system a plumber will be in and out in a couple of days, job done, nice and toasty!

 

[Midwest]

Sadly we don't plan to use it as a daily...more of a cetre piece when we have guests over.

I don't know what it is, i just really hate rediators, they take up space, are complete eyesores and far from efficient. This is why it's hard for me to throw my plans for ufh out and fit radiators. My wife's from South Korea, where radiators just don't exist, when she first came to the uk 7 years ago, she didn't realise they were actually used for anything more than vintage designing, lol. Visiting her family so many times, i've been spoiled experiencing really efficient ufh, it's so nice on the feet.

We have a multi fuel burner. Small one, but sufficient to heat our moderately sized living room. We turn the CH down at night (or I do) and just use the burner to keep us nice & warm. Again, your have to think of your heating design. Any multi fuel burner over 5kw needs some ventilation.

As stated several times here, wet UFH in an existing property will require considerable disruption & expense. It's your money, but I'm sure that can easily be spent on the refurbishment of your new acquisition. Create a spending plan for all the other projects you will have on your refurbishment, and see what penny's you have left.

Modern radiators are more efficient these days, and include some attractive modern designs, if that's your style.

 

[davesparks]

With with a floating floor, I'm told by many that there's absolutely no requirement for screed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BpH65IsNy0

They are right, there is no requirement to screed over the pipes in those systems. But to get a system which works well you will want to bury the pipes in screed with a thick insulation layer under the pipes

 

[sean_ork]

No screed = no thermal mass = fast heat up + fast cool down = bad

Screed or concrete slab with wet UFH embedded with + 250mm insulation below + 50mm perimeter = slow heat up + slow cool down = very good

Please don't consider electric heating unless you massively insulate the entire house - leccy heating is popular with landlords as its cheapish and quick to install with minimal disruption - but its not the landlord that will be paying the ongoing bills.

 

[davesparks]

No screed = no thermal mass = fast heat up + fast cool down = bad

Screed or concrete slab with wet UFH embedded with + 250mm insulation below + 50mm perimeter = slow heat up + slow cool down = very good

Please don't consider electric heating unless you massively insulate the entire house - leccy heating is popular with landlords as its cheapish and quick to install with minimal disruption - but its not the landlord that will be paying the ongoing bills.

Plus electric heating has its active elements under the floor which can go faulty and require a massive effort to dig it up to fix it.
Wet systems only have a pipe under the floor with all the active components at the manifold, much easier to fix if it hoes wrong

 

[Midwest]

Don't think we are going to convince the OP against ufh. Think he's been advised as best as we can.

 

[sean_ork]

Don't think we are going to convince the OP against ufh. Think he's been advised as best as we can.

Nothing wrong with UFH, as long as its the right type, and done as a combined job of installing lots and lots of insulation, and a fair bit of digging down.

 

[Midwest]

Nothing wrong with UFH, as long as its the right type, and done as a combined job of installing lots and lots of insulation, and a fair bit of digging down.

Not disagreeing, if you've read my other posts. Just not realistically achievable with this property.

 

[sean_ork]

Not disagreeing, if you've read my other posts. Just not realistically achievable with this property.

There's nothing structurally preventing proper wet UFH being installed, thats just money, effort and time - perhaps the disruption and need to have it all in with 2 months makes doing the job properly unrealistic.

 

[Midwest]

There's nothing structurally preventing proper wet UFH being installed, thats just money, effort and time - perhaps the disruption and need to have it all in with 2 months makes doing the job properly unrealistic.

Give me strength!