You big ----- !!!
Please don't! I'm not even pretending to be female!
Discuss SDS & hole saws in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
You big ----- !!!
Like. (Like button gone walkabouts.)
That happens with me as well. I need to press F5 to refresh the page to make the button reappear.
I have to use that F5 so much on this forum that the lettering has almost worn off it!!!
Related question - I owe you guys a lot! Do you cool an SDS bit with water when in use? I quickly took to doing that with ordinary masonry bits after bending and 'untwisting' a few! Might help with the dust in motor issue as well...
Use a plastic carrier bag to stop this.
I never did. I think you could make the overheating problem worse by turning the concrete / brick dust into mud which would clog the flutes of the drill.
If yo have to cool it I would suggest a steady blast of compressed air, but then you're getting into problems of where to get it from and the dust that will be flying around.
Your problem with "ordinary masonry drills" is one of speed - you were running it too damned fast! Slow it down a bit and let the drill bit do the work in its own time.
If you want to be a real clever shyte, you can calculate how fast you should be running the drill bit at from the formula N= 12xS / Pi x d
where: N= spindle speed in RPM (this is the bit you're trying to find out)
12 is a constant (cos this formula uses imperial units)
S is the cutting speed of the material (brick or whatever) in feet per minute
Pi is 3.14
d is the diameter (in inches) of the drill.
There is a metric variation on this but I could never be arsed to learn it.
Good suggestion, thanks! This may well be worth doing for jobs needing a lot of holes sawing. Maybe not so much for one or two, given the extra time spent in traffic jams at the beginning and end of the day!
Interesting, thanks. I can't help thinking some kind of plastic tub like a yogurt pot only flatter could do the job though...
I'm off to bed now, thanks so much for all the help and advice! Really makes a difference!
Related question - I owe you guys a lot! Do you cool an SDS bit with water when in use? I quickly took to doing that with ordinary masonry bits after bending and 'untwisting' a few! Might help with the dust in motor issue as well...
I agree.
It's better than the plastic bag because it catches the dust. The plastic bag does not - it only stops it from getting sucked into the machine, but it can be useful for more applications than drilling holes for downlights.
If I were fitting downlights I think I would but one of these gadgets.
hi g.s. wondered if you might further share your plastic bag tips please. i'm guessing one would be drilling in rain? possible outsider: to isolate sparks from motor?
Interesting, thanks. I can't help thinking some kind of plastic tub like a yogurt pot only flatter could do the job though...
Interesting, thanks. I can't help thinking some kind of plastic tub like a yogurt pot only flatter could do the job though...
Here's one I made with a dust extraction port for core drilling a 107mm hole from the inside:
View attachment 23469
The job was this bathroom extractor fan. I chain drilled the tiles and broke out the middle. Then core drilled from the inside. It was in a nice ground floor rental flat, and the landlord was keen to keep the mess to a minimum, so he held the dust catcher while I drilled.
View attachment 23470
The masking tape on the bath was to keep the sealant clean and stop the ply board I put over the new bath from scratching it.
By the way, it was surface run as ceiling was concrete and no access from above or via adjacent room.
I never did. I think you could make the overheating problem worse by turning the concrete / brick dust into mud which would clog the flutes of the drill.
If yo have to cool it I would suggest a steady blast of compressed air, but then you're getting into problems of where to get it from and the dust that will be flying around.
Your problem with "ordinary masonry drills" is one of speed - you were running it too damned fast! Slow it down a bit and let the drill bit do the work in its own time.
If you want to be a real clever shyte, you can calculate how fast you should be running the drill bit at from the formula N= 12xS / Pi x d
where: N= spindle speed in RPM (this is the bit you're trying to find out)
12 is a constant (cos this formula uses imperial units)
S is the cutting speed of the material (brick or whatever) in feet per minute
Pi is 3.14
d is the diameter (in inches) of the drill.
There is a metric variation on this but I could never be arsed to learn it.
prior to getting one of these a couple of weeks ago (def. recommend too) used downlight box to manufacture a diy one. works well too.
selfmade, some hireshops deliver to site (if you didn't know this already!). saves lugging 110 tranny especially if no labourer/apprentice!!!!
There used to be margarine tubs about 6" diameter and quite shallow - maybe 1.5 inches deep? Can't remember what make the margarine was or if it's still on sale though.
The quality of the help & advice all depends on how you ask the question really. You've done well.
I remember Stalk margarine used to come in tubs about 6" diameter. I thought they were deeper than 1.5" but I might be wrong. They came in several colours which were entirely random - the contents of each was exactly the same. But that was in the early '90s when I was kid so doubt if they are still around!
Bosch Blue, if it throws you off the ladder you aint holding it right!!
Dont you mean Stork :ciappa:?
But I think you will find it was.............(quietly) Flora .
Boydy
Thanks - you mean not saying something like "I was asked to make a hole in something so I tried to use my drill (don't know what kind). It didn't work though. Does anyone know why not? Or what the thing is made of? Or if I should check if the right kind of bit is in the drill, or if there is a bit?"
I am bound to make a fool of myself now!
Horses for courses.
I have my Dewalt 18v combi for light stuff, a cheap 110v Ryobi SDS that I've had for about 7 years and a Milwaukee core drill I've had for longer, that I use for well... for core drilling.
I used the Milwaukee to put a 4" hole through 2' of black basalt not that long ago.
I can assure you even with a decent core bit it was nothing like a hot knife through butter.
I work on the principle that if I use each drill for what it's designed for then I'll still be using them happily for years.
Horses for courses.
I have my Dewalt 18v combi for light stuff, a cheap 110v Ryobi SDS that I've had for about 7 years and a Milwaukee core drill I've had for longer, that I use for well... for core drilling.
I used the Milwaukee to put a 4" hole through 2' of black basalt not that long ago.
I can assure you even with a decent core bit it was nothing like a hot knife through butter.
I work on the principle that if I use each drill for what it's designed for then I'll still be using them happily for years.
until the 'labourer factor' or the 'van's 3 flights of stairs + 5 min walk away factor'!
Some piccies of the sort of thing I used to make: D-Drill Concrete Core Sample Cutting Service with Nationwide availability
until the 'labourer factor' or the 'van's 3 flights of stairs + 5 min walk away factor'!
You think you've got a hard life???
Spare a thought for this poor chap!! Eddie Cochran - Twenty Flight Rock - Rock'n'Roll Legends - R'n'R + lyrics - YouTube
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