Still seeking help with starting issue.

[gyislander]

It makes no difference if I depress the clutch. The reason I went through all the hassle to get the switch out and test is was because I noticed that in live data and running in either scenario there was no change to depressing it or not. Doesn't have stop start. I once tried reading the car as a Fiat Panda diesel and there in live data on engine status it has readings of "parking" "starting" and "running". In the faulty scenario it never changed from parking but on 2nd start/ignition cycle it changed through the 3. I took that to mean that when its faulty its because the car doesn't realise it been started though with a Panda obviously not being a Ka or even 500 I'm not sure if I should put any weight on that finding,
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Electric steering does take a good whack out of the battery , so makes sense it waits for it to "think" the engine is
running before turning it on.
(May need to safely hook up a cheap multimeter to
aux power socket (if you have one!) .
Check if it always charges .
May be an ECU decision for energy saving !
(Light may also be ECU controlled
-rather than traditional bulb feeds alternator-
(if have any detail of alternator wiring ? )
(Monitored a lazy alternator on an old Banger)

Not sure what you mean or why hook up to socket ? Does always charge properly, bulb is on the CAN system rather than directly wired.

 

[ruston]

Have you had any problems in the past with the key fob or immobilizer.
Immobilizers can be a source of problems.

 

[gyislander]

No immobiliser issues. I bought the car for the Mrs as a spares/repairs due to some light panel damage. When I drove it first the battery light was on and the power steering didn't work which I thought was probably just the belt (didn't realise it was electric) . I grabbed a new battery and belt incase it failed on the drive home but it didn't. When I stopped I tried a restart to make sure it would be ok (to board ferry) and was suprised to find an easy start with no light and with working steering.
I must have started the car hundreds of times in the last few months and its always the same.
Car hasn't been on the road since as I try to get to the bottom of the issue.

 

[ruston]

How light was the damage , any chance any parts of the harness have been penetrated ( especially around the alternator ) or crushed, or any plugs damaged.
Was the body damage the only reason it was spares or repair, or did they not give you any information?

 

[gyislander]

The damage was very light, mainly scrapes and scratches, a cracked screen and a bogging interior ! Interestingly the alternator looks like the cleanest/newest part of the car. I've just checked again and the voltages from the alternator main lead and ecu wire are consistent in either running scenario. Voltages to main steering supply and ignition based supply also remain similar.

 

[ruston]

As of the cars origin is it the correct alternator for the car ? It's not one they have just put on to get it away?
Have you looked up previous MOT failures for a bit of history

 

[gyislander]

As of the cars origin is it the correct alternator for the car ? It's not one they have just put on to get it away?
Have you looked up previous MOT failures for a bit of history

There's nothing of note in the history. I've no idea about the alternator but I can't see it being faulty when it can run fine. The big question to me is why does it take a restart or cycling ignition to run fine? It's as if the car isn't recognising that it's started or charging without that extra switch of ignition. At first I thought it was cranking or running that it needed before it would realise and restart properly but now that I know its just an ignition click I'm mistified.

 

[ruston]

To be honest I don't know. It is as though it is missing a signal, maybe from the alternator or the immobiliser. It is hard to diagnose without the proper equipment and being there.
As the other posts, these problems can be cumulative and age related to bad connections and bad communication from sensors.
Even with diagnostic equipment they can be hard to tie down.
Also with OBD the manufacturers do not have to divulge all the information of their systems.

 

[PEG]

Hi,is this fitted with the notorious "smart charge" Ford alternator system?

These can be a pain....sometimes,even decent quality OEM replacement alternators,will refuse to "speak" to the control module. The unit both receives and and sends,a signal,which i have read using my 28ii Fluke,but is best tested in real time,with a scope.

The system has the option to "load shed",which it does to prioritise function of electrical equipment,and electric steering should be up there...

Sometimes these components can be coded in,and sometimes not....as i recently spent a day finding out,on a Renault Master EGR...

Be sure,that such dazzling,electronic wizardry,adds little splendour to our days,is random in it's function,and usually is no better quality than the average child's toy

 

[gyislander]

I've checked and its definately not a smart alternator as there's only the one wire to the ecu and a basic -ve battery terminal. A replacement is in the post.