Discuss Triton T80 Easi-Fit Shower Cutting out with sink tap on ;-( in the Electrical Appliances Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

then advise here. have a pumped shower off C/H. hot is pumped, cold not. when shower tap is on cool, it's freezig. soon as turn tap to activate pump, it's scalding. no regulation.
Hi TEL. Think you are referring to a "power shower" there. I was referring to a pumped electric shower. So a direct feed from the water tank in the attic preventing any pressure variations affecting shower supply.
With the power shower you have installed, I, m less experienced but I would wonder whether having a hot and cold water supply at different pressures (one pumped, one not) might be worth looking at?
 
Now he has pressure issues (but pressure is above the legal minimum)... that would be solved by re-installing the CWS tank into his daughters bedroom !
Building of houses/commercial premises is often outstripping infrastructure capacity causing water pressure issues. Plus unsatisfactory maintenance results in more clogging of the system. As a result we notice among landlords a growing trend to ditch the "Power shower" for the less attractive but also less problematic pumped electric shower
 
then advise here. have a pumped shower off C/H. hot is pumped, cold not. when shower tap is on cool, it's freezig. soon as turn tap to activate pump, it's scalding. no regulation.
For pumped showers, both hot and cold feeds should be pumped (via the same pump), and the cold should come from the same large header tank that feeds the hot water cylinder. This way, both hot and cold will have exactly the same pressure at the shower
 
For pumped showers, both hot and cold feeds should be pumped (via the same pump), and the cold should come from the same large header tank that feeds the hot water cylinder. This way, both hot and cold will have exactly the same pressure at the shower
And the outlet from the tank that feeds the hot water cylinder should be marginally higher up the tank than the one the feeds cold water to the pump.
 
For pumped showers, both hot and cold feeds should be pumped (via the same pump), and the cold should come from the same large header tank that feeds the hot water cylinder. This way, both hot and cold will have exactly the same pressure at the shower
that's probably the answer. need to get the wet=pants back from Benidorm.
 
Started out as a sparky, then, about 15 years later, after a particularly bad experience with a plumber on site, I decided enough was enough and expanded the business into plumbing and heating as well.
I continued to do jobs which were purely electrical, did a few which were almost pure plumbing, and did many that were electrics and plumbing, but vowed never again to take a job doing electrics, where a plumber is involved as well.
I stuck too this policy for about 10 years, when two good long term customers of mine both started a large new build project at the same time. Couldn't possibly take all that on, so told both customers they'd have to find plumbers elsewhere.
This following month or two did nothing to improve my opinion of plumbers! One had installed heating pipes along each side of a single storey loft, right out against the ventilated eaves, and had installed the boiler as a potential bomb - isolator valves on the flow and return, with no vent or PRV. Fire up the boiler with both valves off and it goes bang.
Compared to the other property, though, this one was perfection. Other place had heating pipes, hot water pipes and cold water pipes all running together in ducts under the floor, with no insulation between them. There were about a dozen hand basins around the place, all with individual hot and cold water taps, but no consistency as to which tap was on the left and which on the right. The taps chosen only had a tiny identifying mark on them, so it was pot luck as to whether your chosen tap was hot or cold. To add to this, because the heating pipes were in contact with cold pipes, and the hot water in some cases had a long way to travel to the tap, some would flow hot at first, then change to cold, and others would be cold for a while and then hot. Went into the loft while the plumber was commissioning the heating, and saw the vent pipe for the heating header tank was flowing water at full bore. He hadn't a clue why, so I ended up drawing out a diagram for him to change the pipework to on a large iece of cardboard packaging from the kitchen units.
That was the last time I ever worked with a plumber.
 
Adjusted the Isolator value on the cold into the Bathroom sink and it did the job. Turned it just enough so even max output on the tap did not cause the shower to go cold. Thanks for that. ;-)
Surprised the Triton shower low pressure light did not come on if there was an issue with the water inlet into the shower unit.

Thanks for previous advise. Just a quickie...

...after replacing the old 8.5kw, I wanted to store this old shower away, but there is a water rattling around in it. Just wondering if anyone knows how to get this water out as I am sure its not going to be good to leave it inside the shower for years in storage. Have left it for a while and its not dripping out easily - assume there is some complex heater/exchange within the shower.

.. anyone know a trick to remove water from an electric shower so it can be stored?
 

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