Broken Fluorescent Ballast - no longer available - options?

[jazzlover]

I have a bathroom mirror with 2 x 21W fluorescent T5 tubes and an IR sensor. The tubes switch off after a few minutes. I have changed the tubes and the fault persisted. I checked the output from the IR switch and it was 240V so that leaves the ballast as faulty. The problem is the ballast is a not one of the long ones but a shorter one that fits neatly inside a waterproof compartment. I cant get a replacement ballast so I'm looking for some options. I want to replace the Fluorescent tubes with LED T5 equivalents but UK ones still seem to require a ballast (presumably to make them a straightforward replacement). It seems that the US have type B tubes which will run straight off the mains (that would be an easy option as I could just remove the ballast and adjust the wiring but they don't seem to be available in the UK. Can anyone suggest an alternative? Thanks

 

[jazzlover]

Changing the entire fitting isnt an option as the mirror was expensive and we want to retain it. So there must be an option to retrofit this with LED tubes?

 

[Pete999]

Changing the entire fitting isnt an option as the mirror was expensive and we want to retain it. So there must be an option to retrofit this with LED tubes?

Take it back to where you got it from and demand a replacement

 

[UNG]

Led tape and a driver to replace the ballast

 

[SparkyChick]

This may be a suitable replacement, depending on dimensions...

BAG Non-Dimmable Single & Twin T5 9-21 Watt Electronic Ballast

A ballast from BAG Electronics that is capable of running 14-21w single or twin T5 tubes, 10-16W 2D tubes, 9-13W CFL tubes. Electronic Ballast.

www.bltdirect.com

 

[westward10]

It would be easier to have tagged onto the original thread instead of starting a new one.

Bathroom Mirror with fluorescent tubes turning off at random times

Hi, I have a bathroom mirror fitted in 2013 with 2 fluorescent tubes and a pir sensor to operate. Its been working without any issues until a couple of days ago. Now when I turn the light on by passing a hand under the sensor the light will then go off after anything from a minute to 10...

www.electriciansforums.net

 

[jazzlover]

This may be a suitable replacement, depending on dimensions...

BAG Non-Dimmable Single & Twin T5 9-21 Watt Electronic Ballast

A ballast from BAG Electronics that is capable of running 14-21w single or twin T5 tubes, 10-16W 2D tubes, 9-13W CFL tubes. Electronic Ballast.

www.bltdirect.com

Hi - unfortunately its a fraction too high as original is only around 25mm, but its the first one I've seen that would support the original tubes.

 

[jazzlover]

It would be easier to have tagged onto the original thread instead of starting a new one.

Bathroom Mirror with fluorescent tubes turning off at random times

Hi, I have a bathroom mirror fitted in 2013 with 2 fluorescent tubes and a pir sensor to operate. Its been working without any issues until a couple of days ago. Now when I turn the light on by passing a hand under the sensor the light will then go off after anything from a minute to 10...

www.electriciansforums.net

Hi - Yes I should have done that

 

[jazzlover]

Take it back to where you got it from and demand a replacement

Might be hard after 7 years

 

[brianmoooore]

Do type A LED tubes HAVE to be run through a ballast, or is that just for ease of installation?

 

[jazzlover]

Do type A LED tubes HAVE to be run through a ballast, or is that just for ease of installation?

It would be great if they didn't and I have read a number of articles that suggest that although you can leave ballast in its a better idea to remove in case ballast fails at a later date. If that is possible then I just need to work out how to rewire them.

 

[SparkyChick]

I would engage the services of a local electrician and have them rewire the mirror to use these:-

LED T5 Full Glass Tube 2ft Direct to Mains 240V AC • 8W • 4000K • G5

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www.cromptonlamps.com

Unless you feel confident you can undertake the work safely yourself... and for the record, safely does not involve using choc block terminal strips and PVC tape. For this, safely involves decent wire connectors such as the Wago or Ideal lever connectors, or if the cabling is solid single strand copper, the equivalent push fit connectors (I would go with Wago's personally).

 

[brianmoooore]

Do type A LED tubes HAVE to be run through a ballast, or is that just for ease of installation?

This question was aimed at the knowledgeable regulars on here, rather than at the OP.
I've fitted many 1200mm and 1500mm LED tubes; some to existing fittings with the ballasts still in place, and some to new IP55 fittings that were supplied without ballasts fitted, and intended to be used only with LED tubes.

 

[SparkyChick]

This question was aimed at the knowledgeable regulars on here, rather than at the OP.
I've fitted many 1200mm and 1500mm LED tubes; some to existing fittings with the ballasts still in place, and some to new IP55 fittings that were supplied without ballasts fitted, and intended to be used only with LED tubes.

Crompton do direct mains ones (the ones I linked to in my previous post) and ones suitable as direct replacements where the ballast is fully functioning. It's entirely possible the ballast is just getting hot, crammed in there, and it may have dry joints and/or failing electrolytic caps, but in this case rather than take the chance I'd go straight for the direct to mains ones.

 

[brianmoooore]

The tubes I've used in my last post were all the same. Some are through a ballast, and some are direct to 230V.
No idea what the voltage drop is across a ballast when used with LED tubes.

 

[jazzlover]

I would engage the services of a local electrician and have them rewire the mirror to use these:-

LED T5 Full Glass Tube 2ft Direct to Mains 240V AC • 8W • 4000K • G5

<div class="row"><div class="col-lg-12 col-sm-12 col-md-12 col-xs-12" style="margin-bottom: 10px;margin-left: -28px;padding-right: 10px; padding-bottom: 10px;"><div class="col-lg-2 col-md-4 col-sm-4 c

www.cromptonlamps.com

Unless you feel confident you can undertake the work safely yourself... and for the record, safely does not involve using choc block terminal strips and PVC tape. For this, safely involves decent wire connectors such as the Wago or Ideal lever connectors, or if the cabling is solid single strand copper, the equivalent push fit connectors (I would go with Wago's personally).

Hi, Yes I am confident that I can do the rewiring - I already have boxes of the various Wago connectors - both the push fit and spring lever ones. So I will completely remove the Ballast, use the space to fit one of the Wago junction boxes. And then add behind the mirror a laminated notice saying that only mains LED tubes can be used. What surprises me are that LED tubes that can the Ballast are around £6-7 whereas ones that you can use with Mains are £20-24!

 

[SparkyChick]

If that void where the ballast is, is entirely covered and requires tools to remove it, you can dispense with the Wago box. You may struggle to fit one in there an it's not needed if the cover cannot be removed without tools.

 

[telectrix]

Changing the entire fitting isnt an option as the mirror was expensive and we want to retain it. So there must be an option to retrofit this with LED tubes?

try these guys .

Noxion Avant LED Tube T5 Extreme (Mains) High Output 26W 3900lm - 840 | 145cm - Replacer for 49W

T5 LED tubes as energy-efficient versions of the conventional fluorescent T5 tube, available at Budgetlight for the best prices! Mercury-free ✓

www.budgetlight.co.uk

or Tagra Lighting, .

 

[jazzlover]

Just to complete this thread, I removed the Ballast to look for any obvious problems (overheated components, dry joints etc) but couldn't find anything so I permanently removed the ballast. I ordered a pair of LED T5 tubes and rewired the power to them. All working perfectly now. Lights are a bit bright as I couldn't find a pair of warm white tubes. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.