Discuss Broken Fluorescent Ballast - no longer available - options? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Do type A LED tubes HAVE to be run through a ballast, or is that just for ease of installation?
It would be great if they didn't and I have read a number of articles that suggest that although you can leave ballast in its a better idea to remove in case ballast fails at a later date. If that is possible then I just need to work out how to rewire them.
 
I would engage the services of a local electrician and have them rewire the mirror to use these:-


Unless you feel confident you can undertake the work safely yourself... and for the record, safely does not involve using choc block terminal strips and PVC tape. For this, safely involves decent wire connectors such as the Wago or Ideal lever connectors, or if the cabling is solid single strand copper, the equivalent push fit connectors (I would go with Wago's personally).
 
Do type A LED tubes HAVE to be run through a ballast, or is that just for ease of installation?
This question was aimed at the knowledgeable regulars on here, rather than at the OP.
I've fitted many 1200mm and 1500mm LED tubes; some to existing fittings with the ballasts still in place, and some to new IP55 fittings that were supplied without ballasts fitted, and intended to be used only with LED tubes.
 
This question was aimed at the knowledgeable regulars on here, rather than at the OP.
I've fitted many 1200mm and 1500mm LED tubes; some to existing fittings with the ballasts still in place, and some to new IP55 fittings that were supplied without ballasts fitted, and intended to be used only with LED tubes.

Crompton do direct mains ones (the ones I linked to in my previous post) and ones suitable as direct replacements where the ballast is fully functioning. It's entirely possible the ballast is just getting hot, crammed in there, and it may have dry joints and/or failing electrolytic caps, but in this case rather than take the chance I'd go straight for the direct to mains ones.
 
The tubes I've used in my last post were all the same. Some are through a ballast, and some are direct to 230V.
No idea what the voltage drop is across a ballast when used with LED tubes.
 
I would engage the services of a local electrician and have them rewire the mirror to use these:-


Unless you feel confident you can undertake the work safely yourself... and for the record, safely does not involve using choc block terminal strips and PVC tape. For this, safely involves decent wire connectors such as the Wago or Ideal lever connectors, or if the cabling is solid single strand copper, the equivalent push fit connectors (I would go with Wago's personally).
Hi, Yes I am confident that I can do the rewiring - I already have boxes of the various Wago connectors - both the push fit and spring lever ones. So I will completely remove the Ballast, use the space to fit one of the Wago junction boxes. And then add behind the mirror a laminated notice saying that only mains LED tubes can be used. What surprises me are that LED tubes that can the Ballast are around £6-7 whereas ones that you can use with Mains are £20-24!
 
If that void where the ballast is, is entirely covered and requires tools to remove it, you can dispense with the Wago box. You may struggle to fit one in there an it's not needed if the cover cannot be removed without tools.
 
Just to complete this thread, I removed the Ballast to look for any obvious problems (overheated components, dry joints etc) but couldn't find anything so I permanently removed the ballast. I ordered a pair of LED T5 tubes and rewired the power to them. All working perfectly now. Lights are a bit bright as I couldn't find a pair of warm white tubes. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
 

Reply to Broken Fluorescent Ballast - no longer available - options? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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