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Discuss Gas Cooker conked and electrical cooker replacement in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
I said I wouldn'tIf you connect the earths together does the RCD go pop? Just don't get it.
Was your idea to plug the washing machine to the twin socket, your on the hook at the moment ;-)I said I wouldn't
OK, well I think that means they are connected within the socket and defo not the source of the issue.The twin socket presumably has the two earth terminals visibly strapped together?
Ah Ok, could be a short between N and E then eh? I could try taking off the twin socket only (not messing with the other sockets) and trying again with the terminal block connector and see if I get the same result. I only realised the RCD tripped when someone mentioned the upstairs sockets were off - so it wasn't really event driven by me turning something on - just seemed to quietly happen by itself.I don't immediately see the electrical difference between the two configurations you show. I don't get it either! You know the RCD will stay tripped if N & E somehow get connected together, even when the two MCB's you are using are off?
I heard that lots of RCD un-correctable trips are due to boiler connections. It an old boiler so it could be something loose. You're saying to pull off the neutral on the boiler FCU connection and see if that stops tripping when using the terminal connection block to by-pass the twin sockets?You might try lifting the N feed to the boiler (with it off!) just to make sure another fault hasn't appeared in the meantine, and see if you can reset the RCD.
The oven is always connected and has never tripped anything else, The grill on it works fine and the issue is the gas thermostat knob, but I could switch it off from its wall FCU to rule it out when testing.And finally, you haven't connected the cooker in the meantime by any chance have you? If so that's another avenue!
If you inadvertently touched N & E together while doing the changes, that would likely have tripped the RCD. That's normal behaviour and in itself nothing to worry about. But you give the impression you couldn't then reset the RCD, which implied there might be a further problem. If you can reset the RCD, and it stays reset, all should be all OK.Ah Ok, could be a short between N and E then eh? I could try taking off the twin socket only (not messing with the other sockets) and trying again with the terminal block connector and see if I get the same result. I only realised the RCD tripped when someone mentioned the upstairs sockets were off - so it wasn't really event driven by me turning something on - just seemed to quietly happen by itself.
yesYou're saying to pull off the neutral on the boiler FCU connection and see if that stops tripping when using the terminal connection block to by-pass the twin sockets?"
Probably a capacitatively coupled voltage from the house wiring, and since the meter is high impedance, it gives a reading. Once you put any sort of load on, it would disappear. You see this mentioned on this forum sometimes.I did think I saw a 5v AC reading across the terminals of the boiler FCU even when everything was off (which was a bit weird) - pic attached.
You're confusing yourself! You have a 20A radial from the 'fuse board' which you should connect directly to both the twin socket and the input to the fcu. Do not connect the twin socket to the boiler side of the fcu!Even if I got it working - I would have a twin socket into the boiler FCU, and would the current 3A fuse in the boiler FCU have to be replaced with a 13A fuse as it now has twin socket connected with a washing machine plugged in? Is that going to create an issue? That FCU fuse is pretty vital, it blows, no heating during winter.
Sorry I was meaning if you had bought a new electric oven and connected it. They occasionally cause this sort of problem. Ignore this.The oven is always connected and has never tripped anything else, The grill on it works fine and the issue is the gas thermostat knob, but I could switch it off from its wall FCU to rule it out when testing.
Hi, yes, the washing machine was off and out of the twin socket when changing the wiring. I suspect this is me being careless with the N and E as mentioned before, but I have to go in with a testing approach (hopefully today) to try again.Good morning. MAy I ask some questions please?
1. Does the rcd trip when the washing machine is unplugged?
Will be mindful of this on the 2nd testing, but the last time2. How, step by step, do you re-apply power? eg: all mcbs and RCD are on and i use the red main switch. Or. the main switch is on as are all the mcbs and I use the RCD. Or, the two mcbs in question are off and the RCD is off, the main switch is on and I then I turn on the RCD. Or, MAin switch is on, RCD and two mcbs are both off, and then I turn on the RCD and then the 20A mcb and then the 32A mcb?
Okay - should be able to do that, bit tricky to get the cover off, but can do it carefully, understand there is live connections via the tails (I think) so not touch anything inside.3. Turn off red main switch and then CArefully remove lid of the consumer unit and take a photo of the wiring top and bottom of the RCD and then put the lid back on. DO NOT PUT YOUR FINGERS INSIDE!!!
OK - V's between Boiler FCU Earth to double socket Earth4. With your multimeter set to the highest ac voltage range measure the voltages between:
a. earth of left hand FCU and the earth of the double socket to its right.
*There isn't a FCU for the WM twin socket? - I think you mean Volts across Twin socket Earth to HOB FCU Earth (pic attached)b. earth of the double socket and the securing screw of the FCU which switches the socket below for WM.
Ok - Ω's between Boiler FCU Earth to Boiler pipes5. With Main Sswitch Off and your MM set to low ohms setting measure the resistance between:
b. earth of LH FCU and boiler pipes.
OK - Ω's between Boiler pipes and Twin socket Earth (I assume)c. boiler pipes and a securing screw of the FCU which switches the socket for washing machine.
OK - Ω's between HOB FCU Earth and Twin Socket Earthd. the securing screw of the FCU and a securing screw of the socket for the washing machine.
OK - Ω's between washing machine plug pins L-N, L-E, N-Ee. Between the pins of the plug of the washing machine L-N, L-E and N-E.
You're confusing yourself! You have a 20A radial from the 'fuse board' which you should connect directly to both the twin socket and the input to the fcu. Do not connect the twin socket to the boiler side of the fcu!
This really does need an electrician getting in.
Haven't measured anything yet, assume this Earth to Earth V measurement test is to be done before any wiring changes to the Boiler radial and Kitchen Ring (seperate circuits) - and should come back with a 0v if there is no break in continuity.OK - V's between Boiler FCU Earth to double socket Earth
The fact that you measure a voltage albeit small between the earth conductor of the boiler fcu and the earth conductor of the double socket on the right indicates a break in continuity of an earth conductor (more correctly circuit protective conductor cpc). This fault could be on the ring or on the radial to fcu or both. If the cpc between the fcu and the consumer unit and the cpcs of the ring back to the cu where complete and connected correctly then no voltage can exist between the boiler and double socket cpcs because they are effectively joined together. This state of affairs can cause an rcd to trip.
Yes. The 20A circuit is a 'radial', and you can feed multiple accessories (within reason) by daisy-chaining them. It's not the same as a ring.Just have to clarify this (PANIC STATIONS).
You are saying to connect from the Boiler FCU supply input to the TWIN SOCKET?
Think you're saying don't connect from the FCU output going to the boiler.
Attached a diagram of potential new wiring - is this correct? - wire from the Twin socket into the Boiler FCU Live, Neutral & Earth Supply connections??
And terminal block connect the incoming 32A ring supply to the HOB FCU??
Yes, RCD off and no supply goes to boiler.Do we know if the boiler spur circuit is RCD protected?
Yes, RCD off and no supply goes to boiler.
Needs must, there is a pandemic on and not allowed to bring others in, moreover its turkey time soon.As already stated whilst forum is happy to help the DIYer it has to draw the line at step by step guidance. This task is way out of your comfort zone and the pic in #51 demonstrates this because the back box with the block connectors floating about in it is no longer earthed. Because you have interfered with the existing wiring you now have an rcd tripping with no idea as to why so I suggest you reinstate what you have altered and call an electrician.
Dying of Covid is nothing we can do about on this forum, dying from electrical shock is ;-) Good suggestion, I can fit a fly lead but looks like its been discussed quite a bit and seems not required by the regs as earthing happens through the lug for recessed back boxes (@ 2:22). Looks more applicable for surface mounted boxes.That box is not earthed. It would be unwise to advise you further you need an electrician covid or not to assess your situation.
earthing back boxes was made optional around 2005 under the 16th.however, most of us prefer to earth them for the simple reson that if the faceplate is removed for any reason, you lose the earth through the faceplate oins so the back box could become live if a fault developed.Dying of Covid is nothing we can do about on this forum, dying from electrical shock is ;-) Good suggestion, I can fit a fly lead but looks like its been discussed quite a bit and seems not required by the regs as earthing happens through the lug for recessed back boxes (@ 2:22). Looks more applicable for surface mounted boxes.
It looks like it is going to be blanked hence it needs an earth. Many electrcians to the exact same thing.earthing back boxes was made optional around 2005 under the 16th.however, most of us prefer to earth them for the simple reson that if the faceplate is removed for any reason, you lose the earth through the faceplate oins so the back box could become live if a fault developed.
Dying of Covid is nothing we can do about on this forum, dying from electrical shock is ;-) Good suggestion, I can fit a fly lead but looks like its been discussed quite a bit and seems not required by the regs as earthing happens through the lug for recessed back boxes (@ 2:22). Looks more applicable for surface mounted boxes.
I think the above post needs seeing again.Surely this needs an electrician in. It's very close to step-by-step instructions on reconfiguring a circuit.
Ta - figured as much.Most domestic sparkies carry a 3.5mm thread cleaning/reforming tool in their toolbox.
2.5mm cable will be fine.Ta - figured as much.
Almost there, just a query about lead installation from oven to wall FCU...
-2300W / 230v = 10Amps current expected through the electric oven lead at max.
-Understand that 2.5mm T&E does 24Amps circa (but not sure about unburied).
-Fuse in FCU would need to be 13Amps
If I have some spare 2.5mm T&E - this going to be okay for unburied oven lead to FCU?
Should I go for 4mm if unburied?
(BEKO manuals are flippin' useless and googlin is ambiguous).
Will the temperature around the cable reach or exceed 70 degrees at any point?
Oven Wiring - https://photos.app.goo.gl/7QLDMB6tawSqNdtB8Be interesting if it's coming out of the front flex outlet of an FCU !
So how are you going to connect this 2.5 cable.Oven Wiring - https://photos.app.goo.gl/7QLDMB6tawSqNdtB8
Switched FCU's under counter next to gas plumbing - one for hob (I assume) other on right side for current gas oven.
Yes, correct, in fact they used some balloon thing to stop the gas coming out before the shut out valve, so they could replace the shut of valve with a new one.By the sounds of it they had to turn the gas off to repair something to do with the meter or the supply to it.
Apparently suppliers (British Gas) etc accept small leaks as long as there is no smell of gas (I think 8millibars depending on the meter in the house) - Cadent have permittable levels of a small gas leaks (as long as there is no smell of gas) as well, but in this instance they seem to have ignored their own operation procedures and just capped off all the gas to the house.they will not be able to turn the gas to the property back on if there is a leak, unfortunately you are going to need the services of a gas safe registered plumber to find and repair the fault(s) within your house.
Got the gas turned back already by calling out an independent gas engineer (he was shocked by what they did as well).I think a chat with a good independent gas fitter would be the best place to start.
they are going to be in a far better position to advise than a bunch of electricians.
Got the gas turned back already by calling out an independent gas engineer (he was shocked by what they did as well).
Just was curious if anyone in this forum knew about the dark arts of Cadent. There was massive consequences to them cutting gas off on Christmas eve when there are elderly and vulnerable people in the house that could not stay at other people's houses due to Covid risks - and have no heating, no hob, no hot water. Terrible thing for them to do and think I should pursue it - so it does not happen to anyone else.
Terrible thing for them to do and think I should pursue it - so it does not happen to anyone else.
Like poor electrical connectionsDifficult to say without knowing the full story, but imagine the headlines if they switched the supply back on when there was a leak, and something went wrong.
"Safe" is ambiguous, so there is an Operating manual which was ignored.
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