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  1. verar
    Offline

    verar New EF Member

    Location:
    Manchester
    My kitchen was rewired last year and I had the electrician run a cooker circuit "just in case" as I was using a gas cooker. He terminated it in a double socket. Now I'm redoing my kitchen and would like to fit an induction hob (7.4 kW) and a single electric oven below (2-3 kW).

    The double socket is not appropriate anymore as the hob will be hardwired and most likely the oven too. I'd like individual switches above the worktop for each appliance, is this possible? I haven't seen double cooker switches on sale, except including a socket which I don't need at all as I've got plenty in place already.

    Does the cooker switch rating matter? If it's 45 A and the fuse at consumer unit is 'only' 32A, it's the latter which will trip first? Most cooker switches are 45 A rated. I'm attaching a pic of the consumer unit - it says B32, does that mean the fuse is 32 A?

    For the oven, I could run a 13 A FCU from a dual outlet plate or even a socket straight from it?

    consumer unit.jpg
     
  2. Wilko
    Offline

    Wilko Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Berkshire
    Business Name:
    Wilko Electrics
    Hi - the cooker switch rating is to ensure it's sufficiently engineered to carry the load. It will never trip due to a fault. It's just a manual isolator and 45A rated ones are common. The MCB and RCD in your consumer unit may trip in response to fault conditions.
     
  3. telectrix
    Offline

    telectrix Scouser and Proud of It Trusted Advisor

    Top Poster Of Month

    Location:
    cheshire/staffordshire
    Business Name:
    Telectrix
    i can sort that out for you, unless there are members closer.
     
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