Discuss Insulation Resistance Testing : Can someone proofread the below for me please ? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

S

Sharkster

Title says it all really. I've just qualified and unfortunately my college bombed through IR testing but before I even touch anything I want to make sure I understand it thoroughly. Can anyone please compare what I've copied and pasted below to the diagrams and made sure I've understood it correctly before I blow anything up. Sorry the wording on the scans hasn't come through very clear. Thanks for any help it's really appreciated.


HOW INSULATION REISTANCE TESTING WORKS

Please note the explanation here is if youre testing the individual circuits in an installation WITH NO VOLTAGE SENSITIVE EQUIPMENT LEFT IN OR NOT BYPASSED.If you’re doing the initial verification on the whole installation, then you have to use the testing at the meter tails method.

Imagine a simple 2 circuit installation drawn in terms of the parallel networks its made up of.

Obviously for all circuits (2 in this case) theres 3 combinations you have to insulation resistance test.

Ph to N
Ph to CPC
N to CPC

Well look at the Ph to N first for the first appliance 1.

Say you left N1 in the neutral bar and tapped a probe onto it.Say you then take the other probe and tap it onto P1.Nothing is going to go through P2 as when all the breakers are off, theyre not connected through the live bar, and nothings going to go through N2 as its an open circuit.The end result is that even though you havent bothered to remove the N1 and P1 wires to test them, youve still tested the insulation resistance between them by just tapping onto them.

Exactly the same principle applies when you move the probes over one place to test between N2 and P2.

But hang on a bit When youre moving from N1 to N2, youre just moving along the same bit of metal (the neutral bar), so you may as well not move at all, so in practice to Ph N test a distribution board just clamp somewhere onto the Neutral bar with a crocodile clip, leave it there, take the other probe and tap along the live breakers.As you go along you test the insulation resistance of that phase and its corresponding Neutral.

The situation is pretty much exactly the same when you want to test all the Ph ( CPC connections.Crocodile clip onto the earthing bar and tap along the various breakers.Here you are testing between all the earths and bonding conductors against the phases





LASTLY WE LOOK AT THE N ( CPC TESTING, THIS IS THE ONE POINT WE HAVE TO SHOW A BIT OF CARE

When we were doing anything with the phases, we were ok as when the breakers are off, each phase is just a separate wire.

However, with the neutrals CPCs, all the neutrals are connected into one at the neutral bar, and likewise all the CPCs are connected into one at the MET. Look at point (1) on the diagram and imagine the N CPC are broken and in contact at this point.

Say youve crocodile clipped onto the MET youre tapping along the earth bar.Youd spot a fault on every circuit Why ?

Well, youd obviously spot the fault between E1 N2, but because N2 is connected to N1, N3, etc through the neutral bar, youd register the same fault on every circuit !

In fact, you wouldnt even need a fault to be present to get some weird readings.The N CPC are both connected through the star point of the local supply transformer for TN-S and TN-C-S systems, so if you get a zero reading, it could be measuring through here !

To prevent either of these 2 situations, when testing between N CPC, clamp onto the MET with a crocodile clip.When testing each neutral, remove it from the neutral bar, test it then replace it before moving onto the next, alternatively you could disconnect the main neutral.





Diagram 1 001.jpgDiagram 2 001.jpg
 
IET Guidance Note 3 (or GN3)

Purchase this book, study it and all will be revealed. This book along with BGB and OSG will become your new friends so look after them and they will treat you well.
 
I've already got them thanks mate and I've read them extensively, I'm just trying to bridge the gulf between theory and practice, and see if I've understood correctly
 
I've already got them thanks mate and I've read them extensively, I'm just trying to bridge the gulf between theory and practice, and see if I've understood correctly

This is the experience part of your learning curve. There is no "standard" setup as there is at college. I'd like to see some of the lecturers actually work on a CU which somebody has decided to install in a loft...
 
So long as your main switch is off then this should also disconnect the neutral and prevent you reading the NE link at the supply head.

That's right, assuming single phase board with double pole main switch. So you can do a "global" test on all circuits together just by switching off. For individual circuits disconnect the neutrals but leave the earths (CPCs) connected to the bar. If you have RCBOs in the board, usually best to disconnect line and neutrals before testing at more than 250V.
 
Hi Sharkster,the diagrams are a bit fuzzy and because CU's and systems vary so much,i get hypnotised by lengthy wordy item-specific test descriptions,so to simplify things,remember WHATEVER you are testing,its the insulation or separation you are attempting to squeeze your 1000/500/250 volts across.If you keep this in mind,its easy to imagine that test current not encountering any resistance where a deliberate electrical connection exists,ie;earth bar,neutral bar or busbar where two or more MCB's are closed (on). There is a diagram in GN3 that is meant to show testing of an individual circuit but as ALL the MCB's are closed,its actually testing all of them (i have put a posting re this...) So it can be imagined that you need to exclude all normal "joins" between the two lines you are testing between,this is why loads,lamps etc are disconnected and if necessary,the circuit is further seperated by removing from common connections on bars.A cracking way of instilling this vision is how my mates grandad got me to "play" around with this years ago.He give me a tester,a load of 2.5 single and a pile of old components.I just laid out two lengths of cable,and at the ends and along the run,made various cuts and connected lamps,switches etc testing every change.You can pinch it together with mole-grips,tighten them a bit each test,and watch the results decrease every time.It was an afternoon larking with lamps blown and a few shocks,but that picture of how occurences normally not seen affect results,stays with you.I am not suggesting for a second you need to do this as your experience would suggest you are beyond that.....But it is fun! Keep it simple and then work it forwards to incorporate the scenario or cicuit you are facing.I,for one,have found this easier than dropping on a large CU with a global and working backwards from a fault or worse,faults. This is the worst trade in the world for accronyms,abbreviations and slang so a technical description of testing procedure by someone well versed in such can sound like Carol Vordeman sleep-talking! Keep it simple and keep interested.
 
As has been said, so long as the isolator is DP a global reading first off will give you a pointer to if you’re actually looking for a fault. if it indicates a fault then so be it, you have to start splitting neutrals from the bar.
I’ve always been industrial, but used the same global tests on motors or whatever.
 
I will give just one piece of invaluable advice in this thread....
ALWAYS test at 250v first between L-N. I promise you, even when you are certain that everything has been disconnected/unplugged/linked out, there will be one piece of kit every now and again which will fry at 500v, and when it does, it's you that will have to bear the cost and humiliation.....
 
I haven't spotted this mentioned, by anybody, in the above so I'll do it here.

One word

SAFETY
If you are going to squirt 500volts up an installation, it is imperative that you inform anybody in the area to get a cup of tea and sit in a chair and do not touch anything until you have finished.


Certain faults may route your 500volts onto the copper pipework of a house, and you do not want that up your customer.
 

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